22's 1980 xs650 build thread

No need to replace the grease seals unless they're damaged (yours look fine). Sometimes the chain wears the top off the seal on that side but like I said, yours look fine. Replacing the grease nipples depends on what type they are. Early models used a differently shaped nipple that most of today's grease guns don't fit. If you have those then yes, replace with modern standard fittings .....

cUWLj6R.jpg


OsXpAoP.jpg
 
No need to replace the grease seals unless they're damaged (yours look fine). Sometimes the chain wears the top off the seal on that side but like I said, yours look fine. Replacing the grease nipples depends on what type they are. Early models used a differently shaped nipple that most of today's grease guns don't fit. If you have those then yes, replace with modern standard fittings .....

cUWLj6R.jpg


OsXpAoP.jpg
Thanks! Looks like my grease nipples are fine. I got around to cleaning the shaft bolt and pivot tube tonight and they're in worse shape then I had thought, my guess is that the pivot tube is toast and the bolt is 50/50. I've attached a few photos of the worst parts, it's mainly one end of the pivot tube, thoughts on the bolt would be great though.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_06711.jpg
    IMG_06711.jpg
    41.4 KB · Views: 136
  • IMG_06721.jpg
    IMG_06721.jpg
    48.7 KB · Views: 141
  • IMG_06731.jpg
    IMG_06731.jpg
    47 KB · Views: 141
  • IMG_06651.jpg
    IMG_06651.jpg
    43.3 KB · Views: 141
It's been a while and I haven't had a lot of time over the past 6 weeks or so to get much done on the bike but last night I was able to make some decent progress. I had started a whole bunch of different projects but never finished any so last night I finally finished the clutch pushrod seal replacement, changed the rotor brushes, and started to put all the parts back together, my 36mm socket should show up today so I can tighten the sprocket nut, then I'll clean and grease the clutch worm gear and be able to put the side cover back on. Everything went pretty smoothly but I do have one minor question, the chain guide is held on by a bolt at the front and a nut at the back.... do either of these use a washer? It looks like they should but my "before" pictures are so full of grime that I can't actually tell.

Next up once the side cover is back on will be to reinstall the battery box and button up all the electrical components... which I'm not looking forward to, I'm not sure I took enough good pictures.

Here are some before and afters from inside the LH cover.
 

Attachments

  • 20210126_204024.jpg
    20210126_204024.jpg
    281.3 KB · Views: 146
  • IMG_06911.jpg
    IMG_06911.jpg
    233.4 KB · Views: 147
Good job!
check wheel sprocket alignment lots of side wear on that front sprocket.

22-25 and 26-27 are the parts used.
upload_2021-6-2_9-49-42.png
 
Last edited:
What was very dirty is now very clean. Nice job!
Thanks, I was surprised how well it cleaned up.

Good job!
check wheel sprocket alignment lots of size wear on that front sprocket.

22-25 and 26-27 are the parts used.
View attachment 192528

Hmmm interesting, I did flip the sprocket over to give it a bit more life, I can't quite picture how those parts effect the alignment but once I get around to reinstalling the swing arm and chain I'm sure it'll make sense, thanks for the heads up!
 
If memory serves, the shift shaft guard has no washer on the front bolt but does have one on the rear nut.
 
Thanks, I was surprised how well it cleaned up.



Hmmm interesting, I did flip the sprocket over to give it a bit more life, I can't quite picture how those parts effect the alignment but once I get around to reinstalling the swing arm and chain I'm sure it'll make sense, thanks for the heads up!
Sorry I mis-read chain guard mounts in your post.
Side wear on sprocket is likely a rear wheel not set parallel in the swingarm issue.
 
Sorry I mis-read chain guard mounts in your post.
Side wear on sprocket is likely a rear wheel not set parallel in the swingarm issue.

Ohhhh all good, that makes sense, okay I'll double check alignment when putting the rear wheel back on, hoping to pick it up tonight or tomorrow as there in getting new tires installed.
 
Made some progress this morning with the battery box install but I got a little stuck putting the TCI box back on, I thought I had enough photos but apparently I didn't take a photo of the box, do the wires come out the back or do they face the front or maybe it doesn't matter?
 
Swingarm is all ready to go back on and I've realized the original special lock type washer that goes on the through bolt doesn't fit on the new larger diameter thread through bolt that I got from 650direct. Should I just put a normal washer on it, enlarge the ID of the washer by a bit, or go back to the old through bolt even if it's a bit rough? Any thoughts would be great
 
Are you familiar with the proper method for installing the swingarm? You want to torque the bolt just tight enough for the bare swingarm to gently fall under it's own weight. To do that, you need a torque spec range to work within. Unfortunately, the later shop manuals give the swingarm bolt torque value as a single number (47 ft/lbs I think), so that won't do. Instead, follow the torque value range given in the '77 torque chart. This is about the best torque value chart I've run across because all values are given as "ranges" .....

UwdyxX1.jpg


So, start at the minimum value, around 36 ft/lbs, and increase it a couple pounds at a time until the arm drops gently under it's own weight. I think the last one I did took around 45 ft/lbs.
 
Are you familiar with the proper method for installing the swingarm? You want to torque the bolt just tight enough for the bare swingarm to gently fall under it's own weight. To do that, you need a torque spec range to work within. Unfortunately, the later shop manuals give the swingarm bolt torque value as a single number (47 ft/lbs I think), so that won't do. Instead, follow the torque value range given in the '77 torque chart. This is about the best torque value chart I've run across because all values are given as "ranges" .....

UwdyxX1.jpg


So, start at the minimum value, around 36 ft/lbs, and increase it a couple pounds at a time until the arm drops gently under it's own weight. I think the last one I did took around 45 ft/lbs.

Perfect, thanks, that helps a ton, and I assume I can use most all of those torque settings?

I've also cleaned up the rear fender which wasn't in bad shape. The underside had quite a bit or rust which I sanded down and just painted over as there wasn't much else I could do, the 'before' pic below is after sanding. On the chrome I actually tried aluminum foil for the first time and it worked great, followed with some autosol.

I emptied the rear brake system to add new stainless lines but when I went to attach the line to the caliper I realized my new banjo bolts are shorter than the originals, does the length matter? Can I use the new shorter ones or should I re-use the old ones?
 

Attachments

  • 20210417_110022.jpg
    20210417_110022.jpg
    290.3 KB · Views: 113
  • 20210417_110009.jpg
    20210417_110009.jpg
    216.3 KB · Views: 117
  • 20210613_095122.jpg
    20210613_095122.jpg
    377 KB · Views: 114
  • 20210613_095057.jpg
    20210613_095057.jpg
    357.4 KB · Views: 113
  • 20210619_134710.jpg
    20210619_134710.jpg
    190.4 KB · Views: 115
...................... I realized my new banjo bolts are shorter than the originals, does the length matter? Can I use the new shorter ones or should I re-use the old ones?

Use fresh washers or aneal them so you don't have to gorilla the bolt to seal it you'll be fine.
 
Can I use the new shorter ones or should I re-use the old ones?
Stick the bolt into the banjo with both copper washers on it... count the threads that stick out the other side. As long as you can count 4-5 threads, it'll work.
 
Yes, you can use pretty much all those torque values. There are a couple I stray from ..... for the big acorn nuts on top of the head, I go 28 to 30, and on the countershaft sprocket nut, I go a bit tighter. Early manuals spec it at 13 or 13.1 m-kg (about 94 ft/lbs) so I go with that. Some things I don't use a torque wrench at all on, like the oil drain plugs and spark plugs. I guess from installing them so many times I've just developed a "feel" for them. For all my M6 fasteners, I've moved to the low end of the spec (about 6 ft/lbs or 70 to 72 in/lbs). For years I did them all up at 80 in/lbs but I've found I don't need that much. The around 70 has been working fine, no leaks from the oil pan or oil bearing side covers.
 
I got the rear brake line attached to the MC but got stuck when I went to torque the swingarm because I didn't have a 24mm socket, it should be arriving tomorrow.... but quick question will the lock nut effect the torque setting?
I also took the caliper apart hoping for a quick wipe down but noticed some pitting on the piston, I tried some 1200 paper but it barely made a difference, is this piston too far gone?
 

Attachments

  • IMG_07101.jpg
    IMG_07101.jpg
    65.4 KB · Views: 116
  • IMG_07091.jpg
    IMG_07091.jpg
    46.1 KB · Views: 109
  • IMG_07111.jpg
    IMG_07111.jpg
    65.8 KB · Views: 116
  • IMG_07051.jpg
    IMG_07051.jpg
    66.2 KB · Views: 115
Back
Top