Miss November XS2 tribute

Bike on lift and a few bits pulled off gives a better view of the leaky area:

PICT2637.JPG

Looks to me as if the oil is coming from the r/h engine cover, near the right hand 6mm screw?

Then being blown back all over the engine, frame, exhaust, etcetera. Any body see sommat else?

While there, went looking for the wee copper washers. I only found two and not in the right place. Please excuse my rough diagram:

PICT2638.JPG


The area of the leak looks like screw #9 and maybe the whole joint back to #7. I think screws #7-10 should have copper washers? Found two, on #10 and #1.

My feeling just now is to buy a gasket, find some washers, drop the oil, pull the cover, replace the gasket and stitch it all back together.
 
Yes, screws 7 - 10 should have the copper washers. If you look closely at the diagram in post #1615, they are pictured. Check your little round oil filter cover screws, the missing washers may be there.
 
5twins said:
Yes, screws 7 - 10 should have the copper washers. If you look closely at the diagram in post #1615, they are pictured. Check your little round oil filter cover screws, the missing washers may be there.
Click to expand...

Yes, that's what I figured from the exploded diagram - thank you for posting!

No, the 'missing' washers aren't on the filter cover - took off and put a new gasket a week ago, see #1603.

Have now ordered new gasket from Yambits - they already mailed to confirm it's in the post - and a bag of ten 12mm copper washers from Ebay, £3.

Tomorrow, the W800 or Honda NX might have an outing . . .
 
Mailman said:
Sounds like a plan Raymond, those copper washers are very inexpensive. I bought a whole bag of them on eBay and even though it’s not necessary I put them on all the screws on the right side cover.
Click to expand...
I do too it's just easier than trying to keep track
 
This afternoon, drained the oil and pulled the clutch cover off:

PICT2639.JPG


It came off very easily, just took hold of the cover at the front and pulled with a couple of fingers on the edge behind the kicker and it slid off. Maybe it was too loose and that's why it was leaking?

Ain't going to mix up which screw goes where:

PICT2642.JPG

Pulled the old gasket off and it mostly came away in one piece. Would appear to have been applied with Yamabond or similar on the engine side, which I have now cleaned off with a spot of Nitromors and some rubbing with paraffin (kerosene). However, was none too thrilled to find these:

PICT2641.JPG


Case screw is just for size comparison. Did a metal analysis, well, tried the magnetic pen and it ain't interested, so the fragments are alloy not steel. How worried should I be? I can't see where they came from and can't think of any small alloy tabs that might break off. There's no prize but guesses are invited where these little bits might have come from. Because they are alloy, I don't plan to pull the engine apart to find out.

Will put back together with new gasket. Don't think any gasket compound is needed? So, I'll lightly grease the gasket on both sides. Copper washer on four screws.

Can't think how I can measure the torque with Allen screws so I'll just rely on whacking them in finger tight then going round with the Allen key twisting them a little bit more till that feels about right.

Feel very amateurish in this company . . .
 
no guesses on the bits Raymond... sorry.
Mind when you put the sidecover back on. There's a shim washer that goes on the kicker shaft just over the snap ring. Most times it'll stick to the sidecover when you pull it off. It's been known to dislodge itself and get lost. Safest thing to do is fetch it off the cover and put it back on the kicker before that happens.


zzx.jpg
 
Raymond said:
This afternoon, drained the oil and pulled the clutch cover off:

View attachment 193888


It came off very easily, just took hold of the cover at the front and pulled with a couple of fingers on the edge behind the kicker and it slid off. Maybe it was too loose and that's why it was leaking?

Ain't going to mix up which screw goes where:

View attachment 193890

Pulled the old gasket off and it mostly came away in one piece. Would appear to have been applied with Yamabond or similar on the engine side, which I have now cleaned off with a spot of Nitromors and some rubbing with paraffin (kerosene). However, was none too thrilled to find these:

View attachment 193889


Case screw is just for size comparison. Did a metal analysis, well, tried the magnetic pen and it ain't interested, so the fragments are alloy not steel. How worried should I be? I can't see where they came from and can't think of any small alloy tabs that might break off. There's no prize but guesses are invited where these little bits might have come from. Because they are alloy, I don't plan to pull the engine apart to find out.

Will put back together with new gasket. Don't think any gasket compound is needed? So, I'll lightly grease the gasket on both sides. Copper washer on four screws.

Can't think how I can measure the torque with Allen screws so I'll just rely on whacking them in finger tight then going round with the Allen key twisting them a little bit more till that feels about right.

Feel very amateurish in this company . . .
Click to expand...

For what it’s worth, I really like using Hylomar for that gasket, on both sides. It’s non hardening and cleans off easily, and it seals well. I don’t torque those screws either, just a good snug. :)
 
Raymond said:
This afternoon, drained the oil and pulled the clutch cover off:

View attachment 193888


It came off very easily, just took hold of the cover at the front and pulled with a couple of fingers on the edge behind the kicker and it slid off. Maybe it was too loose and that's why it was leaking?

Ain't going to mix up which screw goes where:

View attachment 193890

Pulled the old gasket off and it mostly came away in one piece. Would appear to have been applied with Yamabond or similar on the engine side, which I have now cleaned off with a spot of Nitromors and some rubbing with paraffin (kerosene). However, was none too thrilled to find these:

View attachment 193889


Case screw is just for size comparison. Did a metal analysis, well, tried the magnetic pen and it ain't interested, so the fragments are alloy not steel. How worried should I be? I can't see where they came from and can't think of any small alloy tabs that might break off. There's no prize but guesses are invited where these little bits might have come from. Because they are alloy, I don't plan to pull the engine apart to find out.

Will put back together with new gasket. Don't think any gasket compound is needed? So, I'll lightly grease the gasket on both sides. Copper washer on four screws.

Can't think how I can measure the torque with Allen screws so I'll just rely on whacking them in finger tight then going round with the Allen key twisting them a little bit more till that feels about right.

Feel very amateurish in this company . . .
Click to expand...
I'm part of the same club your in but we're learning
 
Mailman said:
For what it’s worth, I really like using Hylomar for that gasket, on both sides. It’s non hardening and cleans off easily, and it seals well. I don’t torque those screws either, just a good snug. :)
Click to expand...
I like sealing one side or the other so it doesn't stick to both and tear when you pull the cover at a later date. As a rule of thumb, put the sealant on the side you can set up on the bench for easy scraping and/or cleaning.... not the motor side.
If it makes you feel better, I don't torque the sidecover fasteners either. :smoke:
 
Raymond said:
Yes, that's what I figured from the exploded diagram - thank you for posting!

No, the 'missing' washers aren't on the filter cover - took off and put a new gasket a week ago, see #1603.

Have now ordered new gasket from Yambits - they already mailed to confirm it's in the post - and a bag of ten 12mm copper washers from Ebay, £3.

Tomorrow, the W800 or Honda NX might have an outing . . .
Click to expand...

How about a new seal on the kick-start lever Raymond? That might also be a source of leaks.

Pete
 
Jim said:
Possible, but I wouldn't think so, usually the aluminum comes off in fine filings.
Click to expand...

I concur with Jim: when Lucille shed her plastic timing chain guide "shoe" a couple of years ago, I rode her about 80 km back home (only an innocuous rattling sound was heard) and upon disassembly, all I found was some very fine aluminium swarf in the side-cover oil filter - no big chips.

...I have used a 1/4" drive torque wrench on those SHCS (socket head cap screws = Allen screws) - but now I just snug them with an Allen key and also, I haven't used any goo on the gasket and no leaks to date. If I were to put anything on the gasket, I'd only put it on the cover side - not the engine size and for the reason cited by Jim.
 
You don't have a set of metric Allen sockets? I'm surprised .....

WSyIThh.jpg


I always torque the screws using an in/lb torque wrench. I use about 70 in/lbs now (around 6 ft/lbs). I used to use 80 in/lbs but have backed off. So far the lower value is working fine and I figure it's less strain and stress on the 40 year old alloy.
 
5twins said:
You don't have a set of metric Allen sockets? I'm surprised .....

WSyIThh.jpg


I always torque the screws using an in/lb torque wrench. I use about 70 in/lbs now (around 6 ft/lbs). I used to use 80 in/lbs but have backed off. So far the lower value is working fine and I figure it's less strain and stress on the 40 year old alloy.
Click to expand...

5T: Oh yes - in fact, I have about every tool known to man or beast (just ask my long-suffering wife) - but my torque wrench "feel" seems best "calibrated" with an Allen key for some reason.

FWIW: if I were to use a torque wrench, I would stay at or below 6 ft-lbs (about 70 in-lbs) as well in deference to the elderly threads in my engine cases. For that reason, it would be best to make sure that those little copper crush washers are in-place.
 
Raymond said:
- - - Can't think how I can measure the torque with Allen screws so I'll just rely on whacking them in finger tight then going round with the Allen key twisting them a little bit more till that feels about right.- - -
.
Click to expand...

Hi Raymond,
you can cut the elbow-end off an Allen key and use it's straight leg to adapt to a socket on your torque-wrench.
(edit) and like they posted while I was typing (end edit) You can also buy Allen key-ended sockets.
 
Last edited:

Similar threads

P
Voltage regulator alternative?
Replies
14
Views
1K
JJames
JJames
MaxPete
The Big Sue resto-mod thread
2 3 4
Replies
72
Views
2K
MaxPete
MaxPete
willis
Texavina custom seat REVIEW
2
Replies
23
Views
8K
Norton7d
Norton7d
M
An Adventure in Firsts: '83 XS650 Heritage Special Build/Rebuild
38 39 40
Replies
785
Views
81K
Jim
Jim
Muckroot
XSJohn's right side hotter theory - explored
2
Replies
21
Views
3K
xjwmx
xjwmx
Back
Top