Neutral indicator light

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Prizm94

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Hey guys I’ve searched your forums quite a bit I’ve read a bit about them but here we are! I’ve purchased an 83 xs650 that was an electrical nightmare. Im trying to wrap the project up but I can’t get my neutral indicator to work in neutral just first gear N on cluster. I can’t wrap my head around it hopefully someone here can help. The bike wasn’t color coated when I got it nor is it now. Any help is appreciated!
 
Please describe the problem better
The neutral light should be off at all other positions other than neural.
When it does not work so ...it is usually the fork on the wire on the top of the switch that has come loose
 
regular bulbs or LEDs?
The neural bulb is GROUNDED by the neutral switch found behind the cylinders.
so it has a hot wire provided by the ignition circuit.
Here's a simplified diagram notice the starter safety circuit also comes into play.
Late model starter cut off circuit XS650.jpg

I'll just assume lots of stuff has been hacked off and tossed, with loose wires etc. but the basic circuit is as above,
hot by brown wire to switched +12
ground by light blue to the neutral switch.
 
I have a single led at the fork and an N on the cluster I would like to illuminate. I have light blue to an led and a power source and the led illuminates in first gear as well as N displayed in aftermarket cluster.
 
Jan_P said:
Please describe the problem better
The neutral light should be off at all other positions other than neural.
When it does not work so ...it is usually the fork on the wire on the top of the switch that has come loose
Click to expand...
I’ve gotten that tightened down as it wasn’t even hand tight
 
Make a difference if clutch is pulled in or side stand down? (82-83 had a clutch switch)
 
LEDs require very little (power OR ground) to light them perhaps see what happens with a regular bulb, you might be getting a ground though a second bulb or a safety coil circuit..
 
gggGary said:
Make a difference if clutch is pulled in or side stand down? (82-83 had a clutch switch)
Click to expand...
The bikes pretty much bare bones, I attempted that light with power of its own. It worked on the ride over but connections fell apart as I I taped them.
 
So if I get this right
Not stock wiring
A LED lamp for neutral
Generally speaking it would be a one wire serial circuit
+12 -- to LED with a resistor for current limiting --to switch ---to ground
If switch OK switch off ( in gear ) no current
Neutral switch on LED on
If there is more than one connection on this line ground can go via that branch.
But it should work with one wire only
A control lamp for fault finding can be done that way
LED Diode a resistor in series connect to 12 V and ground --- LED lights up
 
Jan_P said:
So if I get this right
Not stock wiring
A LED lamp for neutral
Generally speaking it would be a one wire serial circuit
+12 -- to LED with a resistor for current limiting --to switch ---to ground
If switch OK switch off ( in gear ) no current
Neutral switch on LED on
If there is more than one connection on this line ground can go via that branch.
But it should work with one wire only
A control lamp for fault finding can be done that way
LED Diode a resistor in series connect to 12 V and ground --- LED lights up
Click to expand...
I'll just assume he has 12 volt LED bulb, so no external resistances needed in the circuit.
Some LED bulbs are now non polarity design, they will light no matter which way the terminals are powered. (handy for the old Brit bikes.)
 
The light doesn’t have a resistor, I didn’t add or subtract anything with the exception of a new cluster. The dummy light for neutral does not have a resistor just one singular led on the neck, which I grounded to the neutral switch and power to the other side of the led. Press down on gear selector from neutral to first and the dummy light illuminates. Cycle up to N, turns off. If disconnected and light blue from sensor to green/red neutral indicator light in cluster same thing.
 
It is not clear what Cluster or how it is connected.
Picture ?
If you have a test lamp one way could be test lamp from + 12 V on battery the other end to the switch on top of the engine casing
The ordinary fork off not connected. ( I Believe it can be done with ignition Off depend on actual wiring )
It should then work as intended if the switch is OK
Neutral / Lamp --On / Gear in --Off

Perhaps that is what is mentioned in # 11
If so the switch in itself can be defect.
 
Hey guys maybe the switch is defective. I’ve got my tester light on 12v+ Testing ground on case selector in first gear. Here’s how I was testing prior. With aftermarket cluster and picture of wires from led and wire from neutral sensor
https://imgur.com/gallery/8g6LLfV
 

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Test the wire connection screw on the switch for continuity to ground. It should have it in neutral, not have it in gear.
 
Kick start also ?
Check fuses .
And battery connections Especially Ground
Please describe more lights ??? horn ????
.
 
It has a kick start but idk if it works. I’ve got 6 10 amp fuses in a fuse box. All other systems work with the exception of the hand brake switch and horn aren’t wired in. Horn is connected to button but no power.
 
Well, usually the main fuse is a 20 amp and all the rest for the various circuits are 10's. If you've got a 10 as a main fuse, maybe it can't carry the load?
 
Prizm94 said:
It has a kick start but idk if it works. I’ve got 6 10 amp fuses in a fuse box. All other systems work with the exception of the hand brake switch and horn aren’t wired in. Horn is connected to button but no power.
Click to expand...

My first guess would be weak battery.
I would test the kick starter.
Dont let the leg get fully straight should it kick back.
Push the kick starter slowly down till it gives resistance and then go for it Jump up and come down
Best if on Central stand
 
I just put a new battery in it, I went out and bought a multimeter to check it out further. But i think the solenoid maybe no good it’s not clicking
 

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