XS2 scrambler build

I like the look of that drum front on the 400, I’d keep that and maybe the forks and put it on the 650, make a ratty scrambler type thingy, sell the 400 parts over at the 400 forum or wherever to help pay for the 650, no way I’d ditch the 650 for the 400.
 
Well, I just posted the 400 for sale, 250$ takes it if anyone wants it. I did some research about the chrome last night and my plan is to use vinegar/ diet coke. And foil for the light areas, And then use the steel wool on the bad spots. For the aluminum, I don't have an exact game plan yet. I think I am going to go for a scrambler/ brat style look. I mounted a pair of old dirt bike bars on it and looks pretty good. I am going to try my best not to cut or weld the frame. So if I decide to take it back to the factory it will be doable. The first batch of parts should be here at the tail end of this week or next week. While I wait I will adjust the valves, change the oil, and other maintenance stuff. Tomorrow the tank should be done soaking I will let you all know how it turns out.
 
Also, I have a few questions someone mentioned the frame wasn't that strong. Is there a weak spot or it's just all across the bike?

By the handlebars, there is this wheel I think to adjust the forks. Is taking that off a huge deal?

The handlebars themself are mounted to what looks like rubber bushings. Is this to deal with the vibration from the motor? (I heard these things can be very shaky) I am able to take the handlebars and give them a slight pull up and down. Is that normal?
 
I think some had a steering damper on the headstock. I would keep it there as long as its functional. On the rubber bushings for the bars you can always take them apart and check them out. If they are deteriorated or damaged then you will want replacements. There are different ways to redo them. Solid mount will give no anti vibration. There are probably some polyurethane bushings if you want some dampening or just go back with stock rubbers.
 
I've firmed up sloppy handlebar bushings by fabbing fender washers of about 2mm thickness to fit between the bushing halves.
Bar end weights, either factory as your stock handlebars may be or by adding aftermarket weights will dampen vibes.
 
that wheel is a steering Damper. do not remove.

handle bar rubber dampers can be bought aftermarket. probably the best bet. can pack washers to tighten them up but that is a short term measure.although it works.

the frame is ok unless you are going to race canyon carvers or try yo go 100 mph every where. gggGary and GLJ have just done a 2,000 mile ride on their XS1 and XS2. A lot iof the problems with handling on 70's bikes was the tyres. Today the tyre technology is far superior and this does help with the handling. Thier is still weakness's but for the average rider there is no problem
 
When you dump out the vinegar, flush with water then immediately swirl some gas oil mix in the tank to prevent flash rusting.

My two cents, wash it, get it running and see what you have.
Around here, a running 72 with title, just as you have pictured it, could fetch at least 1500 or more. Any subtraction from as found condition would lead to a discount in value.
 
By the handlebars, there is this wheel I think to adjust the forks. Is taking that off a huge deal?

Here’s a little photo essay of the steering head assembly. The knob allows you to crank down a little resistance on the steering head. It is not the primary adjustment point on the steering head bearings though, that is done by the large nut on the top triple tree. The steering damper knob is a rather unique feature on early bikes and even if you are modifying your bike, I think it’s a rather cool element.

http://www.xs650.com/media/albums/1972-xs2-steering-head-assembly.3128/
 
The steering damper knob is a rather unique feature on early bikes and even if you are modifying your bike, I think it’s a rather cool element.
And cranking it down a bit in a crosswind is a huge help as I recall.
 
That's cool it has a steering damper. I thought that was only for newer sportbikes. I was thinking of removing it to give the bars a cleaner look. Here is a quick update on my plans. I feel like writing it down will help keep the focus on what I have to work on.
On the mechanical side.

My fork seals are toast I started bouncing up and down on the forks and they starting leaking a ton. I used one of those things you measure valve clearance with ( I can't remember the name sorry). To see if there was any dirt and sure enough there was a lot the leaking seems to have stopped but I probably won't for sure to I get some miles on it.

The gas tank I emptied today and still had rust in it. The vinegar I used in It I have used in 7 other gas tanks so it's probably time to replace it. I use baking soda after I dump out the vinegar to prevent the flash rust. After I dry it out I do a quick gas rinse. If vinegar doesn't work next time I will try using something more aggressive.

I plan to run pod filters and take off the mufflers. Meaning I am going to have to tune the carb. I will start reading on the forum to see what different jets people are running.

Cosmetically

Here are a few pics of the look I am going for.

I like the somewhat beat-up look of the red one but I would deferentially keep the stock headlight. I would also go for the seat on the red one. I have seen a few on eBay for 50$. They are not the nicest but for the price, it should be fine.


If the xs400 doesn't sell as it is I might steal the fenders off it and cut them to put on the 650. Since the ones on the 650 cleaning up pretty nice.

Still working on the chrome and have started experimenting with the aluminum. my dad used a buffer and some mother's polisher. on the oil filter cover, it came out looking good. I tried doing the case cover. But there was some paint on it we have to sand off before polishing.

Thanks for reading
 

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Here’s a little photo essay of the steering head assembly. The knob allows you to crank down a little resistance on the steering head. It is not the primary adjustment point on the steering head bearings though, that is done by the large nut on the top triple tree. The steering damper knob is a rather unique feature on early bikes and even if you are modifying your bike, I think it’s a rather cool element.

http://www.xs650.com/media/albums/1972-xs2-steering-head-assembly.3128/

Thanks for the reply really nice bike btw.

I watched your start up video and you used an electric start. I don't see any button for that on mine. Was it optional?
Sorry if that sounds like a silly question.

Someone mention xscafe for service manual on your build thread.I checked thru the table of contents and I don't see anything abut an electric start.
 
XS2 used a decompression lever on the right handlebar. Was a cable that cracked open the left exhaust valve and also had a switch that engaged the starter. Look for a small lever just below the brake lever.
 
I watched your start up video and you used an electric start. I don't see any button for that on mine. Was it optional?
Sorry if that sounds like a silly question.

This was another feature that was unique to the ‘72 and ‘73 models. The electric start was first introduced on the XS2, instead of a starter button, you pulled on the decompression lever that’s part of the right switchgear,
73C370D3-E150-4B4F-958A-234EE9556249.jpeg


The starter switch is inside the lever assembly, when you pull on the decompression lever it pulls this cable that runs to the left valve cover / decompression mechanism.
C37B38DD-A2A7-4A63-9C98-36E1B17A21F7.png

It momentarily holds the exhaust valve open to make it easier for the electric starter to turn the motor over. Later on they realized the decompressor really wasn’t necessary and deleted it.
 
Thats almost like how a drum brake is mounted between the forks and wheel.I bought a caliper rebuild kit for it. hopefully it will work out

I have another silly question. Does anyone know what size bolts are on top of the forks are. Heres a pic. My biggest wrench didn't come close to fitting. I would just go buy a huge adjustable wrench but Im scared I will strip it without using a right size socket.

I am changing my triple clamp for the one on the 400. thats the reason for removing the bolt. I used a tape measure and everything seems to measure up. I just would like to be able to drop the front end an inch or 2. And the triple clamp o the bike doesn't have pinch bolts. Any reason swapping them wouldn't work?. I know I could just cut the springs but I am trying not to anything non reversible.
 
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