Innovative solderless no-crimp electrical connectors

2XSive

2XSive

At least one screw loose behind the handle bars
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I ordered an air/fuel metering kit for my Harley (for the record I own 3 XS's to my 1 Harley) to dial in the carb with new pipes I bought. That kit came with several electrical connectors that I had never seen before. Had to look it up, as they seem to be very well made and high quality. Thought someone else here could benefit from having good options for easy solderless connectors.....

The ones I have are called "positaps", and allow you to connect into any existing wire without cutting the wire, crimping, or soldering. It has a sharp pin on one end that inserts itself onto an existing wire without compromising the integrity of the wire:
posi-tap_n2_a2-b.jpg

https://www.posi-products.com/posiplug.html
 
it looks similar in principle to these T-connectors, which have been around forever. These had an unreliable reputation on the internet, but I once saw a Cray supercomputer taken apart and it was full of them! So surprising, and changed my mind about the connector. With just a small number of connections to make though, i'd do it the traditional way.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Utilitech-20-Count-T-Tap-Wire-Connectors/999956682
 
I purchased a couple accessory fuse blocks a few years back to add accessories to my V-Rod and the Wife's Shadow, Eastern Beaver.
It came with one of those to trigger "keyed" circuits, a circuits that are only live when the key is on. As I recall it had about 10 total circuits, a couple live all the time, direct to battery, like for battery tender, and the remainder where only live when key is on.
They suggested using a running lamp or other line to tap into as all it did was activate the board mounted trigger. Actual power to the accessories installed came from the battery via a heavier gauge wire and fused circuit.
It's been on my bike for better than 10 years, through wash and rain and has worked fine.
For the purpose I like them much better than those other things people sell that wrap around the wires and force them into a groove to cut through the insulation, 3M Scotchlok type
 
Being a bit leery of using something new like this myself (have always done the cut/crimp/solder approach) I decided to research the reviews. They are all very positive. Highly reliable, waterproof, vibration proof, re-usable, etc. Other motorcycle forums have great things to say.
 
RC4MAN said:
I purchased a couple accessory fuse blocks a few years back to add accessories to my V-Rod and the Wife's Shadow, Eastern Beaver.
It came with one of those to trigger "keyed" circuits, a circuits that are only live when the key is on. As I recall it had about 10 total circuits, a couple live all the time, direct to battery, like for battery tender, and the remainder where only live when key is on.
They suggested using a running lamp or other line to tap into as all it did was activate the board mounted trigger. Actual power to the accessories installed came from the battery via a heavier gauge wire and fused circuit.
It's been on my bike for better than 10 years, through wash and rain and has worked fine.
For the purpose I like them much better than those other things people sell that wrap around the wires and force them into a groove to cut through the insulation, 3M Scotchlok type
Click to expand...
Did you buy the Eastern Beaver pc8? I’ve always liked the idea of those but never talked to anyone who used them. My ‘75 xs is too simple for that setup though and would be way overkill. For a more complex wiring setup it looks very nice.
 
xjwmx said:
it looks similar in principle to these T-connectors, which have been around forever. These had an unreliable reputation on the internet, but I once saw a Cray supercomputer taken apart and it was full of them! So surprising, and changed my mind about the connector. With just a small number of connections to make though, i'd do it the traditional way.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Utilitech-20-Count-T-Tap-Wire-Connectors/999956682
Click to expand...
I have heard these commonly called “ Scotch Lock Connectors”. In my past life before retirement, I worked for a company that manufactured road maintenance equipment. I saw numerous bid specs for machines, that specifically stated that use of these connectors was forbidden. I’m not a big fan of them because they leave bare wire exposed to the the elements. I prefer soldering and heat shrink tube with sealant. Next would be crimp connectors with heat shrink and sealant. If I had no choice but to use these connectors, I would slather them with dielectric grease to ward off corrosion.
 
^"Scotch lock" rings a (distant) bell. I think they're fine as long as the environment is indoor. Cray thought so in their industry-leading multi-million dollar computers. Out in the elements, even a pinhole like the op connector makes is bad -- will eventually make high resistance that's bad for low current circuits, or rot the wire in two
 
"Scotch Locks" have been around for a very long time. There are a plethora of different sizes, based on wire gauge, and dry or gel-filled, based on the wire insulation (paper or plastic, respectively). While they are not intended for direct exposure, they are routinely used in outdoor environments (i.e. telephone cable splices). I've personally used uncounted thousands for such (since retired). They last for years....
 
59Tebo said:
(i.e. telephone cable splices). I've personally used uncounted thousands for such (since retired). They last for years....
Click to expand...
I vaguely remember electrical plugs themselves that have a similar kind of connection to the wire. I think the RJ11 plug itself is a miniature version of that. I remember attaching RJ11 plugs to that wire, giving it a squeeze with a special tool about 40 yrs ago. Was trying to look up standards just now but couldn't find much except ads.
 
seems to be a lot of different types of scotch locks almost all of which i wouldnt touch but these post taps look worth trying though would still wrap in tape to be on the safe side , going to buy a pk and find out because if works ok could save a lot of mucking around
 
I decided to use two of the posi-taps to connect my air/fuel meter. Wrapped both in tape. Really like the simplicity. These are not at all like scotch locks or other press-on connectors that are unreliable. If you wanted to make the posi-taps truly weather tight, just dab a little silicone over the ends. They also make other connectors that are waterproof. So far I'm impressed. Time will tell.
 
2XSive said:
I decided to use two of the posi-taps to connect my air/fuel meter. Wrapped both in tape. Really like the simplicity. These are not at all like scotch locks or other press-on connectors that are unreliable. If you wanted to make the posi-taps truly weather tight, just dab a little silicone over the ends. They also make other connectors that are waterproof. So far I'm impressed. Time will tell.
Click to expand...

I have used posi-taps in the past too. They work really well and provide a good connection. I wouldn’t hesitate to use them again. :thumbsup:
 

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