Mailmans XS2 , the rebuild.......again

Ya, I think all Batteries Plus AGM batteries (for our application) are between 200-220 cca. And their regular batteries cca are around what you got. The lithium? 280 cca. And you can really tell :)
 
With the Lithium Iron Phosphate cells the voltage requirement for charging is a little tighter: 14.0 +/- 0.2 Volts. Typically an automotive regulator for Lead Batteries is at the top of this specification or higher. Some websites say it is fine to use an automotive lead battery regulator/charger for Lithium Iron Phosphate Batteries, others say not too. The prefered situation is to have an automotive Lithium battery regulator fitted.

It would be interesting to know what other's experience has been, especially if they have a voltmeter fitted to their bike so they know what voltage their system charges at...:)

Note: Some low priced Lithium Batteries do not have a build in charge management system. These may not last as long where the charge voltage for each cell is not balanced. The management system ensures correct charging voltage to each cell, prevents overcharging, and switches the battery off when the voltage gets too low - Lithium batteries do not like to be fully discharged. All these features help explain the higher pricing, but boy do they deliver current when you want it.
 
The new battery arrived today, it’s on my trickle charger on the bench as we speak. Tomorrow I’ll install it and see if this was a $50 boondoggle, just to have a blue battery. :cool: Anticipation is building, I’m off to take a nap. :zzz:
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Well my new battery was a bust. Never even got to install it. I went out this morning prepared to work on my bike and noticed the new battery was wet on the side of the case and had left some acid underneath where it was sitting. I couldn’t really tell where it was leaking for sure, but I suspect the seal around the negative post, it looked kinda messed up. I’ve already contacted Amazon and a free replacement will be here……in a week. :unsure:
I’ve wondered if the extreme heat in my garage could’ve caused some sort of expansion and forced the leak. We are experiencing 110 degree heat right now and it’s probably at least 10 degrees hotter than that inside my garage with the door closed. But they do say that this is a sealed battery , capable of being mounted on its side, so it really shouldn’t leak.
Just for fun I’m trying to see if I can get it to leak again, another night in the hot garage, tipped towards the side that leaked and hooked up to my battery maintainer.
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Ahh well…….back to waiting. :thumbsdown:
 
I'm waiting for mid Sept for temps to get low enough to ride.
 
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This one squeezed into the Special II battery tray tight.. 220 CCA
:yikes:
Marty probably knows what size actually fits a Standard Rubber battery liner?
I need to know which fits best as well as a Deka is definitely going into my 78E
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So I went on a search for a Deka, couldn’t find one, but they look like good batteries. The battery for an XS2 is smaller than what they put in later years, it really cramps selection. It is a YB12A-A , I think I pretty much explored all my options. Except for maybe a lithium, I didn’t look at any. But it has to be sealed.
 
Suppose since it was tried and proven, ETX14L for me again. No rubber liner then. They are wide and squeeze in. Short, so dense foam pad underneath and front and rear.
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Fits 78/79 this way..
 
@Mailman do a search for ETX15. It's what is in my XS2. This is the third year for it, it came out of the first parts bike I bought. Not sure of the brand, if you want I'll pull it out and see what it is. It works just fine.It is a tight fit. But then tight fits are always better.

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The battery for an XS2 is smaller than what they put in later years, it really cramps selection.
I've pondered this before...
There's a dead space underneath the swingarm that's actually quiet roomy. A person could build a box and mount it down there... would be hidden out of sight. Put a small battery in there (like the one below) and parallel it into the existing battery.
Boom... an extra 45CCA. :smoke:


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Not needed if you have a good battery. I rode mine for years back in the 70s. It never failed to start with the e-start. To be honest I remember most of the problems I had with it. Cranking was not one of them. I had a YUSA battery in it. I even "God forbid" started it with the headlight on.
 
Ok I’ve been doing a little sleuthing. The ETX14 is just too big, it simply would not fit into my battery box. The ETX15 would probably fit if I removed my rubber tray the battery sits on and didn’t use the rubber insulating band that goes around my battery.
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The ETX15 is just enough larger that the buying options are greatly expanded, plus in that sized battery the CCA amps also jump up to anywhere from 200-220. Which is a huge improvement. It’s not that my bike won’t turn over, it was doing that fine, it’s that the voltage was dropping when trying to crank a hot motor.

This is all still theoretical at this point, since I haven’t got a new battery yet to see if it will fix it. I’ve already purchased the one I’ve got coming so I’m going to try that first. It’s only 165 CCA, but it was the best I could find.
 
The ETX15 would probably fit if I removed my rubber tray the battery sits on and didn’t use the rubber insulating band that goes around my battery.
I still use the rubber tray at the bottom. No strap around it. Nothing at the top but a shop rag (handy sometimes). It's a tight fit, doesn't move around.
 
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