81 XS650 running but have issues


So got everything back together. I got these vacuum gauges from Amazon but they were garbage and didn’t work for nothing. So took carbs off and balanced them using some welding rod as close as possible. I also set my fuel air screw from 3.5 turns to 3. When all done it sounds good. Feels good when riding. Seems to idle pretty good. I think timing is good I’m at 16 degrees. Hopefully it keeps up for a while without much hiccup
 
Yes Sir
That is the Throttle response I was talking about More or less perfect as far as I know
I am good at finding things to whine and complain about .. But cant find it here ..
As good as it gets. ..

There is a note at the beginning not there at the end of the video left side - Exhaust -Valve Play Is How much ????
Nothing much to mention but on the midsummer " To do List "
Probably Perfect on a hard ridden revving bike also having a little larger play cold..
 
So rode it an actual distance today. Highway the works. About 5 total miles. (To work and home from work). When i got home it was starving for fuel and cut out, luckily i was just getting home. Checked my fuel filter and seen no fuel running in really. Made sure it wasn’t the lid again, opened it with no change. Took the line off after the filter, tuned on to make sure fuel was going through petcock and filter just fine. Hooked back up again and nothing. I guess it’s plugged somewhere after the filter. I’m gonna take carbs off again and clean out that passage real good. I must have washed somethin in there? Other than that the bike ran good but even at the correct cable adjustment my clutch slips a little when you get on it. Ordered new friction plates and springs today. Gonna start there but all in all i was pleased
 
also, here is all my shit I’m selling on eBay that i had left over. Shoot me an offer if you want anything here. I really do t care about making to much money on it just listed the stuff i thought i could get a few beers for
 

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also, here is all my shit I’m selling on eBay that i had left over. Shoot me an offer if you want anything here. I really do t care about making to much money on it just listed the stuff i thought i could get a few beers for
PM sent...
 
So one of my floats was not working right, one needle didn’t want to go in and out of the float seat very well. Thought it was the posts being off a little, just went to give it a slight twist and broke it. I’m i totally fucked or is this saveable? Asking for a friend
 

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In my view it is saveable .. it depends on what tools and knowledge is nearby
It is not parts that is under big loads
If you take it to someone into fine mechanics he can make something happen.
I would look into making a small pipe with a transversal hole
A pipe with tight fit on the post .that is broken
And then finding another pin perhaps make one with a lathe perhaps with a nut.

Hose clamp type solution clamping an ear up

Perhaps braze or weld

Epoxy glue ??
 
So one of my floats was not working right, one needle didn’t want to go in and out of the float seat very well. Thought it was the posts being off a little, just went to give it a slight twist and broke it. I’m i totally fucked or is this saveable? Asking for a friend
I believe it's pot metal. If so, you might be able to solder it.
 
For a quick (and yes, permanent) fix. drill a small.... .050" or so hole through the post (red lines). Take a small (jewelers) file and notch the broke bit (red arrow).
Slather J B Weld (the original) on the pieces and run safety wire through the hole and around the notches. Once that's cured overnight, drill the J B Weld slop out of the hole and put it all back together. Or use a tooth pic to clean it out while it's still wet.

Note: That's zamak... an aluminum/zinc alloy. It forms a thin film of corrosion almost immediately when exposed to air. Makes for a poor bond. Take a stainless wire brush and scrub the ends to remove the film. Have the J B mixed and ready... put it together immediately for best adhesion.

Note2: Make sure the safety wire pigtail is inside as far away from the float bowl as possible so it doesn't interfere.


Untitled.png



... a more elegant solution.... :wink2:


1650569353256.png
 
For a quick (and yes, permanent) fix. drill a small.... .050" or so hole through the post (red lines). Take a small (jewelers) file and notch the broke bit (red arrow).
Slather J B Weld (the original) on the pieces and run safety wire through the hole and around the notches. Once that's cured overnight, drill the J B Weld slop out of the hole and put it all back together. Or use a tooth pic to clean it out while it's still wet.

Note: That's zamak... an aluminum/zinc alloy. It forms a thin film of corrosion almost immediately when exposed to air. Makes for a poor bond. Take a stainless wire brush and scrub the ends to remove the film. Have the J B mixed and ready... put it together immediately for best adhesion.

Note2: Make sure the safety wire pigtail is inside as far away from the float bowl as possible so it doesn't interfere.


View attachment 212507


... a more elegant solution.... :wink2:


View attachment 212508
Well, I just learned something. Thanks, I was guessing pot metal.
 
So after fixing the carb, which went good and works perfect again, i got it all back together and at idle the right cylinder runs rough compared to the left. The left idles perfect and the right has like a stutter. Anyways take it on a ride and went ok, i could tell the right cylinder running this way was causing it to want to die almost at stops but not terrible. I was thinking of what changed, i did decide to not use the black rtv gasket stuff and make two gaskets for the intake boots. Only because i was tired of cleaning that off each time but i think it was sealing it better and now maybe i have an air leak on the right? Not sure yet on that. But anyways i get close to home, after only about a mile (short loop around the block) and bike wants to die out. Just like issue I’ve been having. I feel confident it’s not fuel supply now. I really feel like it’s this electronic ignition. Almost like when it gets hot the e-advance part malfunctions cause the bike acts like it would when the timing is off. As soon as the bike died and i tried to kick it, it wants to backfire out the intake and after a few kicks blew my carb off the boot when it backfired so hard. It acts like it’s stuck way advanced or something. I still have that new ignition that Mikes sent me. I’m going to try and switch that out to see if it was just my ignition. Super frustrating i was planning on taking the bike to an event tomorrow but I’ll have to take my Honda for now until i can sort this thing out.
 
I don't remember all done and what .. parts here
But almost every time my bike has died over the years it has been the charging ..
To low and an electronic ignition shuts down ( and points )
to high ( Faulty stock mechanical regulator ) and it can start misfiring and stall one cylinder ( Boyer Bransden. )
talking stock alternator
So a voltmeter installation is not so expensive and you probably want one sooner or later anyways
 


So i installed the replacement electronic ignition today that Mikes sent me. Made sure all the connections good. Now for some reason i can’t get it advanced enough for timing at the 15 degrees. It sure why yet, i got my bike hot hot from holding the throttle consistent for some time and made sure gas wasn’t running out or anything. Then turned it off. It starts back up now after being hot. Now keep in mind i haven’t taken it on the road yet and got on it, not sure if that will change it because that’s when it usually does. My valves are making noise not sure if that’s from the timing yet or not. Anyways this is just an update still looking at everything
 
Running out of timing plate adjustment can be a sign that your cam chain is all stretched out and in need of replacement.
 
Running out of timing plate adjustment can be a sign that your cam chain is all stretched out and in need of replacement.

Perhaps so but this bike did run perfect on the earlier video so i believe it is an installation fault and or adjustment.
Quickly listening it appeared to much advanced on the second video on right side. ( Just a guess )
Have not worked with this ignition myself.
On Boyer Bransden there is a possibility to move the magnets and shaft on the axle relative the crankshaft
aka rotating in the camshaft.
Was there not a problem with that here in the Beginning # 24

Moving the Adjusting window so to speak on the pickup plate out of the " WIndow "
 
Running out of timing plate adjustment can be a sign that your cam chain is all stretched out and in need of replacement.
That what i thought, or my chain skipped a gear or something. What’s weird is it changed so much after only changing the ignition trigger plate and the end piece that has the sensors or magnets whatever they are the goes on the end of the advance rod. Seems like that wouldnt have an effect but i guess it did, or is it possible my chain started stretching once i started this build?
 
The cam chain will always be stretching but it does so very slowly usually - unless you adjust it too tight. That would accelerate the stretching. Did you install a new cam chain when you put the bike together?
 
The cam chain will always be stretching but it does so very slowly usually - unless you adjust it too tight. That would accelerate the stretching. Did you install a new cam chain when you put the bike together?
No i didn’t. All i did to the motor before putting it back in was install the PMA setup and change sump filter, fixed kick start spring. I did check a few times that the tensioner was where it was supposed to be (flush). You think that these are off a little (ignitions) because i went from one to the other without changing anything else and now the timing is this way. I have to look on the forums to see how hard it is to replace the chain and also check it’s on timing mark.
 
Ok so just in update. mikes sent me a new electronic ignition. Installed that. Cleaned carbs again. Worked great in the driveway. Too for a ride. Bike got hot and stopped running. It will idle barley but as soon as you give it any gas it’s very sporadic and all over the place and will die. Doesn’t feel like it’s starving for fuel or flooding out just more of a erratic ignition or something. Called mikes again they are sending me a replacement coil now to try. If it’s not that I’ll have to double check all my wiring connections again (all new wiring) and maybe look harder at my carbs. This bike mainly keeps having its problems after it gets hot. I’m gonna start it before changing the coil to make sure it’s still doing it then replace and see what happens
 
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