Just Picked this Up Today!! 1971 Yamaha XS1B 650

Under certain circumstances you can use a grease gun and a spark plug with the ceramic insulator removed and a nut welded on to take a grease nipple.
Worked a treat on my 650D but it wasn't too heavily seized.
I've been told that you can generate several tons of force this way, enough to bend conrods or break the crank, so plenty of scope for the ham-fisted
 
Grewth said:
Under certain circumstances you can use a grease gun and a spark plug with the ceramic insulator removed and a nut welded on to take a grease nipple.
Worked a treat on my 650D but it wasn't too heavily seized.
I've been told that you can generate several tons of force this way, enough to bend conrods or break the crank, so plenty of scope for the ham-fisted
Click to expand...
Only works if the valves are shut.
 
Use of force now and then leads to bigger problems .than necessary
This being an engine that is seized ..and the spark plugs has to come out one way or another.Perhaps drilling.
And most people will take a look at the valves and chain guides. This is an engine that comes out of the frame
( Most cases )
And lifting the cylinder head then there is the possibility to inject oil and other chemicals having time to soak making it simpler and less risky.
I would reevaluate the grease gun or crank breaker bar methods
A grease gun can give big forces ..but if there is some loose part in the cylinder that can create a scratch in the cylinder wall .that one don't want
Taking it step by step and have patience. .. Best case don't need a rebore
Worst case new cylinders. And more if to big forces are applied to soon

And the Hondas which one is suggested as the parts bike .The first one sure does not like a parts bike. Even if the engine is Seized.
 
I’d be careful about how much torque you apply to the crank nut. The thread isn’t that big.

Many years ago when. I bought my beetle with a seized engine, I got it unstuck by beating it with a 2x4 and big hammer (wouldn’t do that again). Motor got moving again but pistons were destroyed. After the fact, some old beetle restorers told me I should have soaked the whole engine in diesel for a month or so and that would have freed it up. If not seriously rusted in the bores, maybe an option? But at current fuel prices, the amount of diesel you’d have to buy could cost more than another engine. Lol.

Good luck with your project.
 
59Tebo said:
Jon,
Something to try, to get the motor "unstuck": put a socket directly on the crank bolt, use a "breaker" bar, and "bonk" lightly with a rubber mallet. I thought the motor was stuck on my '75 (The Basketcase), but it turned out to be excessive corrosion around the alternator. The result of improper storage (holding up the side of a shed for years). Good luck with you XS-1B
Click to expand...
Thank you very much for the tip. I just happen to be familiar with this technique, as that is how I broke the assembly free on the '74 CB!
 

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Jan_P said:
And the Hondas which one is suggested as the parts bike .The first one sure does not like a parts bike. Even if the engine is Seized.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the tip on using too much force. As far as the pictures of the Honda that I posted, it's the same bike. Somehow the pictures got jumbled around but the pics of it with the black tank and stripped of most of its major components is how I bought it. The other pics show how it turned out after I hunted the parts and put it back on the road. It runs well and is a good rider.
 
If it's really, really, terminally seized you may have to resort to some radical actions.
By sacrificeing some of your engine, you might just be able to salvage some of the most vital parts.
Difficult to assess the true extent of the damage with a complete engine still in the frame.
Have you tried the engine mounting bolts yet ?
It's going to have to come out at some point surely ?
 
teamWicked said:
With kerosene or diesel or any other penetrating oil, try heating the block first. Space heater, salamander, whatever, then pour in the liquid. Cooling capillary action will draw in the liquid into voids.
Click to expand...

Yes, heat is a key component to freeing up these old engines and other assemblies that move.
 
I didn't have too much time this weekend but I did manage about an hour on the 650. Sprayed the ports down liberally with Kroil and gave it a go with the breaker bar, although gently. I will let it soak for a few days and try again. I used my expensive Kroil because I need to find a place that sells kerosene locally. That used to be no problem but it's getting to be a challenge locally to find it.....arggghhhhh.
 
JonW said:
I didn't have too much time this weekend but I did manage about an hour on the 650. Sprayed the ports down liberally with Kroil and gave it a go with the breaker bar, although gently. I will let it soak for a few days and try again. I used my expensive Kroil because I need to find a place that sells kerosene locally. That used to be no problem but it's getting to be a challenge locally to find it.....arggghhhhh.
Click to expand...
Diesel... $3 or so for 1/2 gallon at the pump...:) Heat the barrels, then pour some diesel in.
 

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