2003 Royal Enfield 500 Deluxe

it's supposed to be high-melting point.
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Well, after reading Tim from NZ's excellent treatise on the correct way to adjust the Bullet tls brake, he is not a fan of drilled trunnions:

https://www.royalenfields.com/2019/03/tims-front-bake-link-rod-adjustment.html

it's all back together:

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and according to my rusty old micrometer, the distance between the two link rod trunnions (love that word) and the pivot bolts is the same. Both about 144mm plus or minus a gnat's hair. So we have a true parallelogram. I estimate the arms will be at 90° when the cable yanks them?

Followed Tim's instruction to make the back-plate nut hand tight only - he says if the nut is located up agin the fork leg then it cannot come loose. Well, I might give it a little bit more with a 1"AF open ender tomorrow, coz it is brakes after all.

The real test will be on the road. Ooh err!
 
Initial road test now completed.

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Went out for a short run on the Bullet and first impression the front brake is much better.

Never going to stop the bike like a disc and 6-piston caliper but felt a lot more like a brake than it did before. Should find a deserted piece of road and try some serious braking, get a feel for it.
 
Thank you, 5T but I went with the molybdenum disulfide grease in my products cupboard. Used a judicious amount on the pivot pins only.

This afternoon, went to Galashiels to see the engineer and felt a lot more confident in traffic. Funny how knowing you have a brake and can stop if you need to does that?
 
Quick recap on the Bullet.

Since the bike came to live here, fitted new switches, which look more appropriate for a machine of classic design, rewired the bike, simplified the wiring system, dc only instead of ac/dc mix, new higher output alternator, fitted new instruments, mph instead of kph, again they look more appropriate, dyed the saddle, revised the saddle mountings, trimmed the number plate, fitted it back on a bit oops, cleaned the carb, raised the needle one notch, washed the air cleaner, shifted the gear lever - moved the shift lever? - dismantled and cleaned the clutch, changed the primary fluid, dismantled, sorted and adjusted the front brake, fitted a new front brake cable, sorted the spark plug resistance, further remedial re-wiring - the shorting taillight/rear turn signals. Rob the engineer in Galashiels is making an additional brace for the rear mudguard/fender.

And ridden the bike 400 miles.

When we were out today, refuelled for the third time, explored a few more local lanes, stopped for two ladies on horses - it seemed easier than trying to change down and not frighten the horses. But in general, the gearchange is giving far fewer problems. It might have loosened up with use but more likely just getting more familiar.

And more changes are planned . . .
 
Well, in the early days, the bike kept giving up and the engine stopping. At that point, and especially with a bike you're new to, it can feel like your running out of petrol. Has it stopped 'coz it wants to go on reserve? Or is it just an inadequate fuel tap? Maybe the fuel tap needs a good head of fuel to flow enough? So to remove doubt, head to the filling station and bung in some gas. But don't overfill, in case the problem is related to an airlock/blocked tank breather . . .

All part of getting to know a bike.

So at no point have I filled the tank from low to full, just topping up a bit. The handbook gives the fuel tank capacity as 14.45 litres, which is just over 3 of our full-measure gallons or nearly 4 measly US gallons. I've been averaging about half that per filling. So far, I think the Bullet is returning about 70 mpg, which is about 56 miles to a US gallon?

Won't really know till I have enough confidence in the museum-piece to go for a few longer runs.
 
Any reason you are eliminating the starter?

Yes, I think I might have referred to this before? The starter was an afterthought and perhaps not well engineered. Advice from those experienced in the Ways of these older Bullets is don't use it, because at some point the sprag clutch between the crank sprocket and the starter motor will self destruct. Causing variable amounts of hassle, annoyance, expense and collateral damage.

I have not used the starter even once and early in our relationship I removed all temptation along with the heavy-duty leads to the solenoid.

However, the Bullet is usually easy to kick start. Also, removing the starter will save a lot of weight and in my view improve the looks. A step back towards the simpler looks of the original design from a simpler, post-War era.
 
Fitting the new inner chaincase entails drilling and tapping three holes. This is done with the engine in situ, so I thought about how to go straight and came up with this:

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The internal angle is greater than 90° but being of an obtuse nature meself I'm happy enough - when the jig is laid down, the flat surfaces are vertical so I think that will guide the drill?

Expecting a 6.9mm drill bit in the post mebbe today. Hitchcocks provided the case, gaskets, mounting hardware and an 8mm tap.
 
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