XS Performance Steering Head Bearings

j343my

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Anybody have any experience with the XS Performance Steering head bearing kit?

I ordered from XS650 Direct and that's the kit they sent me. It came with two extra spacers and no instructions.

I found the following on XS Performance's shop website:

27_2009_27_2009_de.jpg

I have read through all the threads on this site about tapered head bearing installs, and never seen any with spacers. If anything it seems people have been having the opposite problem of not having quite enough space.

Anyway, anyone have any insight?
 
Anybody have any experience with the XS Performance Steering head bearing kit?

I ordered from XS650 Direct and that's the kit they sent me. It came with two extra spacers and no instructions.

I found the following on XS Performance's shop website:

View attachment 220678
I have read through all the threads on this site about tapered head bearing installs, and never seen any with spacers. If anything it seems people have been having the opposite problem of not having quite enough space.

Anyway, anyone have any insight?
Are those caged ball bearings?

The OE ball bearings are quicker, for lack of a better term. The tapered roller bearings are more durable for our purposes. I’m wondering if you have acquired “improved” ball bearings.
 
I got my taper roller set from All Balls. I don't recall any great instructions but it was pretty clear what to do as each end and dust seal is a different size. I think my biggest problem was keeping them square while pulling them in.
20180324_120306.jpg

Good luck with yours!
 
Tapered bearing kits usually come with spacers and dust covers.

You need to measure your current set up to see if you need the spacers or not.

I don’t recall ever needing the spacers or the dust covers for that matter (maybe on the bottom).
 
Are those caged ball bearings?

The OE ball bearings are quicker, for lack of a better term. The tapered roller bearings are more durable for our purposes. I’m wondering if you have acquired “improved” ball bearings.
the force on them would be wrong if they're ball bearings like wheel bearings. but it's what they look like! i can't see how it would work. i still have original loose ball bearings but they're arranged to take the main force from the side, unlike wheel bearings
 
Here's a chart with the bearing dimensions. Compare the total thickness (bearing + race) of yours to what's in the chart and that should tell you if you need the spacers .....

GoranSteeringBearingsXS650.jpg
 
Are those caged ball bearings?

The OE ball bearings are quicker, for lack of a better term. The tapered roller bearings are more durable for our purposes. I’m wondering if you have acquired “improved” ball bearings.
They are tapered roller bearings still.
Here's a chart with the bearing dimensions. Compare the total thickness (bearing + race) of yours to what's in the chart and that should tell you if you need the spacers .....

View attachment 220782
They are just over 12mm. With the spacers they are closer to the dims listed above. So I guess they are needed in that case.

Thanks for the help guys.
 
Are there numbers on the bearings? Obviously they're not the ones listed in the chart (25Y/48YS, 30Y/48KS).
 
I've read that the lower outer race of the replacement bearings hides under the ledge that it rests on, and that you can grind a small place out in the ledge so you can get a punch on the race from the top in case you ever need to
 
the force on them would be wrong if they're ball bearings like wheel bearings. but it's what they look like! i still have original loose ball bearings but they're arranged to take the main force from the side, unlike wheel bearings
Yeah... wheel bearings are straight line driving only.... no side loads allowed. What... you need to turn that 6000lb beast to get in your driveway? Sorry 'bout your bad luck... no sideloads allowed. :doh:



Shame Facepalm GIF by MOODMAN



:laughing:
 
48x25x12 on the upper, and 48x30x12 on the Lower.
The thickness @ 12mm is a bit odd; the All Balls are 15mm, I've seen charts that show a 12mm in the 30 ID (48Y1-30YM1), but not the 25mm ID. Anyway, I'm guessing that the spacers you speak of should be ~2mm to take-up the space of thinner bearing - so 1 top & 1 bottom. All's OK as long as it squishes together with no play & proper torque:agree:
 
I worked 16 years in the rock crushing industry. I ordered a lot of bearings for gear reducers, conveyor idles etc. You local @motion Industries or similar will get you the bearings you need at an affordable price.
 
Yeah... wheel bearings are straight line driving only.... no side loads allowed. What... you need to turn that 6000lb beast to get in your driveway? Sorry 'bout your bad luck... no sideloads allowed. :doh:



Shame Facepalm GIF by MOODMAN



:laughing:
Nice little production there. Ball bearings are designed to support a load in the plane of the bearings, not a side load. Will they take some side load? Well, obviously so, Mr. head of the FAA.
 
What does that even mean? Federal Asshole Association? Got me on that one.
 
I actually received the same kit and had the same questions, the photo shows what was included in my kit including the two, 3mm spacers that increase the overall thickness to 15mm.

I haven't done the job yet so it might be obvious once I take it apart but would it matter if the spacers go on top of or below the bearings?

20220803_132108.jpg
 
Mike's c'mon! This kit will work, but how much are they saving this way?

Put outer races in position and drive in frame steering head.
Appears dust seal goes on the very bottom against stem, then the bottom spacer is meant for 30mm ID, then bearing (numbers down), - insert bottom tree in frame head. On top then its bearing (25 ID numbers up) , the other guessing 25mm ID spacer goes on the very top (last) before OEM dust cover, ring nuts etc. and top tree. Clear as mud?
yamaha-xs650-1978-usa-steeringxs650dee006501f_bigyau0812e-9_f229.gif
 
Yes, just as the pic in the 1st post shows - included rubber seal first (or re-use original), spacer under bottom bearing and on top of top bearing. I like the All Balls kit because it includes a couple additional grease seals, one to snap on the bottom of the bottom bearing and the other to put on top of the top bearing. Truth be told, I don't use the top one, don't see the point or the need for it. Gravity makes the grease in the bearings migrate down so I don't see a seal on top doing much of anything. At the bottom, I use the original rubber seal ring AND the new snap on seal on the bearing.

I have grease nipples installed in my steering necks so the stems are pumped full of grease. All that extra grease tends to ooze out of the bottom bearing over time. That second seal from the All Balls kit helps keep the grease in better. On my '78, I installed the bearings from Mike's many years ago. They don't come with the extra grease seals so grease oozes out of the bottom much faster and easier. The extra seal I didn't use on the All Balls '83 install will eventually be put on the bottom bearing in the '78.

AllBalls650SteeringBearings.jpg
 
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