Magura Clutch Lever and Aluminum pushrod

I did oil the new cable but will do it again today. I’ll remove the tank and relocate the cable under the tank mount like yours yo see if that helps. Thx
 
Update on the Magura clutch lever and aluminum clutch push rod.
First the Magura lever assembly. Works very well. Has more cable travel than a stock lever. It with the long arm worm gives the push rod plenty of travel. Pull is just fine to me. No problems with clutch dragging at stop lights.
The aluminum push rod makes a huge difference. Very minimal change in cable free play between a cold engine and a hot engine. Set the adjusting screw at the worm at 3/16 of a turn from touching, adjust cable at lever and you are done. I used to get a lot of extra free play when the motor warmed up. Now very little. I like it.
The first aluminum rod I made was out of 5/16 6061AL. Ran it for 1000 miles and checked it for wear. Not bad it had a little wear where the seal and bushing ride. During the time I was testing it I had ordered 1 piece of 8mm 7075AL from China. Took almost 2 months to get to me. Made a push rod out of it. Went to install and it wouldn't fit. It measured .619 instead of .615. F@CK Remembered 2M had posted a link where he found some 8mm 7075AL, found the link and ordered some. Got to me in less than a week. It's even the right size and fits. Made a push rod and installed. I only have 600 smiles on it. Checked it the other day and looks good. Plus it works great.
Last winter I sent Mailman a couple of the 6161AL pushrods to test. He had the same results I had.
If anybody's wants one I they are for sale for $17.50 +shipping. If interested PM me.
Edit: The ones for sale are 8mm 7075AL
View attachment 169952
Hi,
I'm replacing the worn plates in a 1980 SX650. It's always been difficult to find neutral and the shift has never been smooth. While the clutch basket is out, I'll check the shift adjustment. I have noticed that the shift does get easier as it heats up, so while it's apart, I may as well replace the push rod. Can I still get one of the aluminum rods?
 
Hi,
I'm replacing the worn plates in a 1980 SX650. It's always been difficult to find neutral and the shift has never been smooth. While the clutch basket is out, I'll check the shift adjustment. I have noticed that the shift does get easier as it heats up, so while it's apart, I may as well replace the push rod. Can I still get one of the aluminum rods?
Not at this time.
 
Bit of a recap. Had the elusive neutral problem as well a chattering clutch when taking off, especially when cold. Installed the @gggGary 8 plate clutch mod and at the same time, Barnett clutch springs. Also had a new clutch cable. Clutch engagement was silky smooth but neutral was still tough to find. Attempting to get better plate separation, I installed a Magura clutch lever. Neutral became a bit easier to find, especially when rolling to a stop. Problem was that the pull on the clutch lever was too hard and uncomfortable for a good city ride.

The pull was improved by rerouting the cable, lubing it again, installing a different worm assembly in the engine cover. Better but still too hard. Decided to pull the Barnett springs out and replace them with EBC’s. Much better now but I now realize a good part of the difficulty in the pull is the physical distance between the lever and handle bar. I don’t have small hands but it’s a stretch to grab the lever. That said, no matter what I do, with the Magura, the clutch will not be an easy pull for me. Fair weather testing coming up in 6 weeks (hopefully).
 
The original positioning of the clutch cable makes the problem of hard pull worse because it adds a tight bend. Try running the cable along the top frame tube as per usual but have it exit below the headlight through the gap above the lower triple tree and then loop up to the clutch lever. This will make the clutch easier to pull.
 
I have rerouted the cable and I believe I have it in the optimal position now - might be ad you suggest @Paul Sutton. I may try mixing up a batch of @gggGary ’s cable lube and try that too. Have to ride it now and see how it ferls with the new springs - it may be ok. I used to use the Water Buffalo as a point of reference for clutch pull force but now that it’s gone I done have anything to compare it to as the Ducati has a hydraulic clutch. Last year I attached a digital scale to the lever to measure the force needed to pull the lever. Perhaps I can try that again today.
 
Although not the perfect test or experiment, I hooked up my digital scale to the lever and gave her a yank. I’m estimating an approximate reduction in pull by about 6lbs. Looking at an old video from my previous test, when the lever was about 3/4” from the bar, the force needed was about 28 lbs. Now that measurement is about 22 lbs. Results would have been more accurate with an assistant but just did it myself with three hands. Sat on the bike and worked the lever - it may be ok especially with a warm engine and oil.
 
Although not the perfect test or experiment, I hooked up my digital scale to the lever and gave her a yank. I’m estimating an approximate reduction in pull by about 6lbs. Looking at an old video from my previous test, when the lever was about 3/4” from the bar, the force needed was about 28 lbs. Now that measurement is about 22 lbs. Results would have been more accurate with an assistant but just did it myself with three hands. Sat on the bike and worked the lever - it may be ok especially with a warm engine and oil.
Keep workin' on it. Mines about half that. :sneaky:
I think mine was about 10-14lbs last time I checked.

https://www.xs650.com/threads/yet-another-clutch-mod-thread.57235/
 
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