Throttle stumble just after idle

Howdy!
Making progress. I'd not apply the dremel just yet. Check the advance unit on the other side to see if it shows signs of wear and is moving freely, springing-snapping all the way back.

What was up with the rotor/flywheel?
 
Howdy!
Making progress. I'd not apply the dremel just yet. Check the advance unit on the other side to see if it shows signs of wear and is moving freely, springing-snapping all the way back.

What was up with the rotor/flywheel?
Good idea. And I’m not really sure what he did there. I retorqued it then marked TDC and did my adjustment now here I am lol this is the first time the bike has been rideable as my driveway is about a 15* slope and about 60 yards long the bikes never been able to pull it. But after the timing adjustment it pulled the hill and wasn’t stalling on itself as usual. How much movement should I have on the other side? I checked it a while back as I seen mention of it in an old thread. I remember it moving and coming back to rest instantly but I don’t remember how far I was able to spread the “arms” so to speak
 
Running out of timing plate adjustment can be a sign that the cam chain is stretched out and in need of replacement. Another sign, but this one of a really stretched out chain, would be having to tighten the cam chain adjuster so much there are barely any threads left showing to screw the acorn cover nut back onto.
 
What 5Twins said.:agree:

Did ya pull the rotor and check the key? Remote, but possible that it semi-sheared while running loose; I've seen 'em "dogleg"
 
What 5Twins said.:agree:

Did ya pull the rotor and check the key? Remote, but possible that it semi-sheared while running loose; I've seen 'em "dogleg"
I didn’t end up pulling the rotor as of yet, wanted to see what setting it in time would do as it was the easier of the two fixes and go from there
 
Running out of timing plate adjustment can be a sign that the cam chain is stretched out and in need of replacement. Another sign, but this one of a really stretched out chain, would be having to tighten the cam chain adjuster so much there are barely any threads left showing to screw the acorn cover nut back onto.
Here’s a question, I watched a video explaining how to set timing chain tension and to set it so the nipple is just flush with the threads of the acorns stem. That being said mine is currently set a tad bit past the end of the shaft. Could this be an issue?
 
Just pulled the acorn off to take a picture and it’s flush now. Maybe I’m losing it but I’m 95% sure it wasn’t flush as of last week when I took it off to remove the carbs??
 
As 5Twins is here, I'm deferring to him....
 
Could it be that my timing is fine now and I need to check and adjust valves? That’s the only thing I haven’t done/checked yet and like I said the bike it rideable and almost there as far as throttle response goes
 
The plunger in the center of the cam chain adjusting bolt "pulses" in and out as the motor turns over. That would explain you finding it in different spots the two times you looked at it. The motor was probably in a different spot in it's rotation each time. The plunger is spring-loaded and pushes a big rubber/metal "shoe" against the back run of the chain to take up it's slack. But, like any chain, the cam chain stretches unevenly, developing "high" and "low" spots, or loose and tight sections. When a tight spot runs by the tensioner, it pushes the plunger out, when a looser spot goes by, it allows the plunger to move back in.

Because of this in-out movement, one of the easiest ways to check and/or adjust the tension is while the engine sits there idling. You want to tighten the adjuster up so you have a small amount of in-out movement, maybe 1 to 2mm. No movement means you've set it too tight and any more than the amount mentioned means it's too loose. If it's really loose, the chain will make noise like loose valves.
 
Alright fellas followed 5twins direction on cam chain adjustment, and adjusted my valves which were all off either too tight or too loose and I still can’t get this thing dialed in. How junky are the carbs from mikesxs or tcbros? At this point I would take a bike that runs pretty good over barely runs. I’m starting to loose my patience with this bikes resilience and my lack of success. I’m at a total loss as to what to check and or adjust at this point.
 
Geez - I went to look back and didn't realize we're up to page 5 already!

Anyway - I don't think we're done with ignition yet before going back to carbs. 1) rotor position is still suspect, 2) if your power source is a capacitor, I suggest you substitute a good battery - perhaps temporary to test
 
Geez - I went to look back and didn't realize we're up to page 5 already!

Anyway - I don't think we're done with ignition yet before going back to carbs. 1) rotor position is still suspect, 2) if your power source is a capacitor, I suggest you substitute a good battery - perhaps temporary to test
But what’s getting me is if ignition were my issue wouldn’t I have problems throughout the rpm range not just off low end?
 
If the voltage current supplied at low rpm's is insufficient, no.
We’ll, looks like my electrical experience is finally up to bat! I’m gonna do some research on what I can do to temporary it in there and leave provisions for permanent use. Thanks man I appreciate it
 
IDK - not an EE - shade-tree mostly. lol. There's gonna be some, more important to coils to see range around 12V, I don't know how much +- bothers them. See what ya get...
 
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