It's time to start a winter Project. The Red Bike

..... and they're even cheaper if you buy several .....

https://www.ebay.com/itm/382205271545
Curiously, my tracker, tucked away for winter, has a little fluid drip on the floor under the caliper. When I bought the bike 16 months ago it had 998 miles on a new speedometer and tires coded 2007. Make me wonder if maybe it sat for a while and has a similar problem. ??? ...and maybe I should order in quantity.
 
Last edited:
If you haven't pulled that caliper apart and cleaned it out, you really should. I haven't needed to replace many rubber parts in them but have had to replace some pistons. Sitting around with old contaminated fluid (has water in it) is what does them in. I have a whole box full of old calipers and most had pretty badly pitted pistons in them.
 
I have s $11 Brake line with fixxed ends. The routing is poor amd twisted. I have a replacement on hand but will dive into the caliper rework later. I prefer to have 1 set of parts laying around at a time. ADHD.
 
Found time to get into the front brake caliper.The pieces clean up OK but the piston has some pitting. Is this to close to the seal or do I need to search out a replacement? On reassembly do I lube it with brake fluid?View attachment 234466
Stupid me. I realized the piston is upside down. Good thing I like to ride sweep.
 
New? option;
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1927878205...uid=tW1migcmQPO&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Brake Caliper Piston - Yamaha XS360/400/500/650/750/850/1100 SR500 XJ650 XV920​


Reproduction front brake caliper piston for the Honda Gold Wing GL1000 1975-1977 and many Yamaha 360-1100cc models from 1976-1984. Stock calipers have a tendency to become corroded and the piston can seize inside the caliper. If you're rebuilding your front caliper it might be time for a new piston, especially if the original piston is pitted. Ride safe and brake with confidence!

Price:
US $23.95 free shipping, Hayward, California


Replaces Honda Part Number: 45107-371-006
Replaces Piston Only on Yamaha Part Numbers: 1L9-25810-03-00, 3H5-25810-02-00, 1L9-25810-14-00, 3J6-25810-52-00

Specifications:​


Material: Nickel plated carbon steel
Diameter: 38mm
Overall Height: 41mm
Height of top section: 8mm
Groove: 4mm
Diameter of top: 35mm

Fits Yamaha:​


XS360/C - 1976 - Front
XS400/S - 1978 - Front + Rear (Does not fit XS400SE)
XS400D/E/F - 1977-1979
SR500 - 1978-1981 - Front
XS500C/D - 1976-1977 - Front
XJ650 R Seca - 1982 - Front
XS650 - 1977-1984 - Front + Rear
XS750SE/SF Special - 1977-1979 - Front + Rear- (Double check dimensions - more than 1 size was used)
XS750 Special US - 1977-1979 - Rear- (Double check dimensions - more than 1 size was used)
XS850 - 1980-1981 - Front + Rear- (Double check dimensions - more than 1 size was used)
XV920/RH/RJ - 1981-1982 - Front
XS1100/E-H - 1978-1981 - Front + Rear- (Double check dimensions - more than 1 size was used)


random xs650 parts found at caltric.com free shipping USA
1674995735970.png

I've used their brake pads work good.
 
I finalized standard side cover mounts on an 81 Special frame.
16759749029042740103541267205872.jpg
I did some welds even the original builders would laugh at. I am pretty sure I have executed the ugliest welds in XS650 history. But, now I can worry about paint on the tins.
Now onto figuring how to mount a standard seat pan (Texavina, thanks @jetmechmarty). I currently am tending to building flat mating surfaces and using superduty velcro.
16759744103324785370612613188506.jpg
16759744493577408008024702216535.jpg
 
Progress is slow. Babysitting granddaughters 3 or 4 days a week restricts garage time but I have worked through most processes mentally. Shot some black rustoleum on the lower frame. Most of this is obscured by shiny exhaust. An alcohol wipe after scrubbing with a soapy scotch pad should have been good. No. Some fish eyes emerged.
16760834110097982739866303030279.jpg
 
I am still figuring how to reassemble the forks w/springs and spacers. I am hoping that I can drop one tube (at a time) an inch or so to and use the upper triple clamps as a guide for the fork top nut to align with the fork tube and NOT get cross threaded.
It is time to get this side buttoned with polished case, new clutch cable and a cleaned and lubed chain. The clutch side case will need lots of work.
 
Last edited:
I am still figuring how to reassemble the forks w/springs and spacers. I am hoping that I can drop one tube (at a time) an inch or so to and use the upper triple clamps as a guide for the fork top nut to align with the fork tube and NOT get cross threaded.
It is time to get this side buttoned with polished case, new clutch cable and a cleaned and lubed chain. The clutch side case will need lots of work.
Keep in mind that the fork top should come off as routine. Fork oil is a consumable. It should be changed periodically. Perhaps at every third engine oil change. It get very dirty very quickly.
 
Progress is slow. Babysitting granddaughters 3 or 4 days a week restricts garage time but I have worked through most processes mentally. Shot some black rustoleum on the lower frame. Most of this is obscured by shiny exhaust. An alcohol wipe after scrubbing with a soapy scotch pad should have been good. No. Some fish eyes emerged.View attachment 235451
Looks pretty good to me, how close do you find black Rustoleum matches the original frame colour?
 
You are coming along!
Since I'm a rattle can maven, I find mineral spirits as my goto for prepaint spray/wipedown.
Doesn't hurt that I always have a spritzer bottle of it around. The better spray paints are still oil (read mineral spirits) based enamel. A bit of dampness left in cracks and crevices doesn't hurt, may even help with an even coat.
I (as always) use a lot of rattlecan sprayed in a container and brushed on with artists brushes. Work thin, use a couple coats with a few minutes between for coverage let dry (pretty good) and rub a bit with rubbing compound to blend. You can't tell a Yammy frame's been touched up.
My goto paint these days is;
1676207255036.png


And/or Duplicolor High Build enamal.
1676207715206.png

I see I have cans of both in the garage.
Yes I use gloss on the frame but there's always cans of black, semi gloss, matt, high heat, and flat around.
 
Last edited:
I’ve had my XS650SK for very close to 40 years. In that time, it has suffered paint chips, battery acid, and rust from damp storage. Meanwhile, the bike has always received at least a little attention and never sat in a condition not functional.
I touched up frame damage with rattle can black. There is no telling how many different colors of black are on there. I’m sure it would be easy enough to see if I stripped the frame. Meanwhile, I don’t notice it. Nobody else notices it. The comments I get on it now are quite to the contrary.
How much is a concourse restored XS650SK worth?
:shrug:
 
I’ve had my XS650SK for very close to 40 years. In that time, it has suffered paint chips, battery acid, and rust from damp storage. Meanwhile, the bike has always received at least a little attention and never sat in a condition not functional.
I touched up frame damage with rattle can black. There is no telling how many different colors of black are on there. I’m sure it would be easy enough to see if I stripped the frame. Meanwhile, I don’t notice it. Nobody else notices it. The comments I get on it now are quite to the contrary.
How much is a concourse restored XS650SK worth?
:shrug:

How much you ask? Like almost every vehicle on the planet, a lot less than the cost of restoration. If you had to pay retail, to strip and paint the frame and components, at $100 hr, which is what most paint shops are going to charge, would be $500-$700 labor. Tins, minimum $800 labor. Add $300+ paint and materials and you are crowding $2000. Now lets go visit the chrome platers.... As someone who restores (paint and body) cars for a living, most of my customers do it out of passion. If you're doing it as an investment, you're better off playing the lottery.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Looks pretty good to me, how close do you find black Rustoleum matches the original frame colour?
My Rustoleum Truck black is a higher gloss than the frame that I have. I don't know if the gloss on the frame ages or if Yamaha chose a slightly dull gloss. I did the downtubes in front months ago. Now I did the left side lower while the alternator cover is off. I will do the right side when I go into the clutch cover for polishing and inspection. The top of the frame under the seat will get painted after I weld on some seat mounts. Mosy of these frame areas are hidden or obscured by pipes and mufflers, side covers, peg mounts etc so a perfect match isn't critical for me. I will know only after assembly how it ends up. YRMV.
 
You are coming along!
Since I'm a rattle can maven,
I have 2 milk crates full of rattle cans of various colors. I understand the mineral spirits wipe down and use it often but I follow up with an alcohol wipe. I do this to insure I have remove residue in case the paint I use doesn't like the spirits residue.
 
I have 2 milk crates full of rattle cans of various colors. I understand the mineral spirits wipe down and use it often but I follow up with an alcohol wipe. I do this to insure I have remove residue in case the paint I use doesn't like the spirits residue.
I use grease and wax remover (cheap stuff is O.K.) followed with either a waterborne cleaner specific to the autobody trade or, believe it or not, Spray-Away non ammonia glass cleaner. Wax and grease remover is just that, it gets rid of wax, grease oil and such. The Spray-Away gets rid of body oil and everything else. This has been a tried and true method for me for years.
 
Back
Top