I pulled the tank from my 78 XS650SE to clean and repaint it. At some point, someone replaced the original petcocks with the type available from Mike's XS. They leak a dip or so when I switch the lever between off/on/res, etc., so I figured I'd clean and rebuild them while I had everything apart. Went to Mike's XS website, but couldn't find a rebuild kit for these petcocks, so sent a note to customer service. Response was "we don't have a rebuild kit for those petcocks". Really? Anyone have experience with these petcocks and know of a rebiuld kit, or failing that some better petcocks that can be serviced if necessary?
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Petcocks
- Thread starter NP2650
- Start date
Astrolite
XS650 Member
Was thinking of buying a couple of those myself. Now, not so sure if they can't be rebuilt. I'd be interested to see what others say.
Confucius say "when you buy cheep sheet Chinee parts, they only cheep for little while" Sadly, there's not a lot of options. I could go on for days about the low quality Chinee parts NAPA sells. Sure, they're guaranteed, I love replacing crap for free.
If they reverse engineered the petcocks perhaps the original kits fit also? There’s only a couple parts in there.
I have been very curious about the question of the cheap petcocks leaking because I have a set also and I wanted to see what could be done. First was the rubber disk. The outsides appear to be the same but the holes for the passageways are larger. You could probably drill them out a little but there is also not as tall of a lip around each hole so you would be taking some of that.
I only checked the fronts because I have not had issues with stock or aftermarket leaking from the back but that is just a gasket that you can make yourself. I also checked the flatness of the back of the lever to see what kind of contact it was making with the disk. What I found by rubbing them on a stones was the leaker
vs the non-leaker
the non-leaker was definitely flatter. The tension washer was also a little narrower than a stock which fits in the recess a little less sloppy.
I also noted that by using the same body casting for both sides unless you check you would never know that because only the tap and faceplate are reversed so on the left you are actually on reserve in the on position.
I only checked the fronts because I have not had issues with stock or aftermarket leaking from the back but that is just a gasket that you can make yourself. I also checked the flatness of the back of the lever to see what kind of contact it was making with the disk. What I found by rubbing them on a stones was the leaker vs the non-leaker the non-leaker was definitely flatter. The tension washer was also a little narrower than a stock which fits in the recess a little less sloppy.
I also noted that by using the same body casting for both sides unless you check you would never know that because only the tap and faceplate are reversed so on the left you are actually on reserve in the on position.
I tried to rebuild a vacuum petcock. It leaked. I think it's the kit and the o'ring doesn't reach the seat. It doesn't even reach the seat. I have an aftermarket manual petcock on there right now. It's the same as the one @Wingedwheel is showing. Mine is OK in ON or OFF, but it leaks while I move it. It's obviously far lesser quality than the OE petcock.
Yes, you want that back side of the arm to be totally flat and smooth. I always "dress" them against 400 or 600 paper on glass when I refurb a petcock. I also check the edges around the hole or holes on that back side. Any sharp edges will cut into the rubber disc and tear it up as you rotate it. I'll round them off with a small, sharp knife if I find any.
I found when rebuilding the OEM if I didn’t get the rubber washer seated down over the port openings and flat it was very hard to move the lever. If you think they’re all the way in push harder lol
I use ONLY the OEM 4 hole "valve"
There's a trick on getting the o-ring to seat on the port's taper. But it's A: a subtle repair and B: an easy way to ruin the part.
Madness rebuilt vacuum petcocks have been working fine for years.
OMG I've doomed myself!
There's a trick on getting the o-ring to seat on the port's taper. But it's A: a subtle repair and B: an easy way to ruin the part.
Madness rebuilt vacuum petcocks have been working fine for years.
OMG I've doomed myself!
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First time I rebuilt one of the non-vac the lever was so stiff I was scared I would break it off. I realized the valve disk needed to be seated deeper. I warmed it up and used a little red grease on it. I found you want “snug” levers not “stiff”.
IMHO theres a difference
IMHO theres a difference
