Can I run the Anti-Gravity AG401?

Leavejayalone

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I’ve got a 75’ with the stock charging system, Pamco ignition, stock regulator, and high output coils. I’m looking to slim down the bike and go to the AG401. I can’t seem to find any definitive info on whether this will work on what I’ve got and if not what do I need to get to make this work?

Also, this is kick only, no starter, headlamp brake lights.
 
The 401 is 12V with 6Ah (lead acid equivalent). It will not run electric start, but should power lights and ignition. That said the 801 may be a bit more forgiving of load and charging. I would make sure your regulator is adjusted down to 14.2VDC max or install a lithium rated combo regulator/rectifier (brush mod may be required). I'm running a 1201 with e-start and no issues.
 
Yep, the one Marty linked is a power regulating type compatible with your original wiring and brush config. (didn't know lithium reg. existed in type B)👍 I'm running Rick's lithium reg./rec's ( type A) on two different bikes with no issues.
 
It turns on my engine numbers are for a ‘78-‘79 model, so I’m wondering about compatibility.

I’m having problems finding where the ‘+ field coil or brush” is? I’ve got a regulator that I’m not sure stays or not. I found where the rest of the wires go but man someone moved some things around before me.

I’m hung up on what to do with this regulator?
 

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It turns on my engine numbers are for a ‘78-‘79 model, so I’m wondering about compatibility.

I’m having problems finding where the ‘+ field coil or brush” is? I’ve got a regulator that I’m not sure stays or not. I found where the rest of the wires go but man someone moved some things around before me.

I’m hung up on what to do with this regulator?
Post a good picture of the stator. The engine itself doesn't matter. What electrical/ignition system is it running? A good picture may clarify.
 
Here’s my electrical. Thanks for the help.
 

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So am I getting rid of this regulator? Here’s the schematic from Rick’s. And the supposed 78-79 schematic even though none of my colors are right. I’ve got it all figured out accept the “white to ‘+’ field coil or brush. Is the green where I need to splice my white into? I can trace and ohm out wires if I need to I’m just not sure what I’m looking for.
 

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The white wire from Rick's regulator goes to the green brush wire. The yellow wire from bike's stator goes to original "safety relay" or is not used (depending on your bike).
 
Yellow wire not used.

See pic of old regulator. Green traces to green stator wire, Red is the only wire to and from coil. Small black wire goes to a fuse then to the on position of the keyswitch. Power in to key switch.

Correct me if I’m wrong but I can delete this old regulator. Solder Green, Red, Black and the Rick’s white together?
 

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Yes, the previous regulator and rectifier are removed and replaced by the new Rick's unit.

Rick's black to Yamaha brown
Rick's green to Yamaha black (ground)
Rick's yellow to Yamaha white (3) from stator
Rick's red to Yamaha red (battery +)
Rick's white to Yamaha green brush wire
 
So the Coil and the Green brush can be connected? The "White" wire on Rick's must just be a regulated power out, same as the Ricks "Black' to, as I understand it, All 12-volt power when the key is in the on position.

Just making sure I understand the signal flow part of it.
 
By "Coil" you mean "field coil", yes; the Yamaha field coil is the rotor - connected by the brushes. White is regulated power out, from Rick's regulator. The Yamaha brown (originally to old regulator) is switched power in to the regulator (black on Rick's)
 
By coils I was referring to this guy.
Oh, well the ignition coil typically isn't involved directly in wiring the charging system. But, it can share switched power on the Yamaha brown wire circuit in some schemes. Perhaps it's best to address that separately when the time comes...
 
So you think it’d be safe to wire those four wires together like I talk about from the old regulator? Pictured here?
 

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Hmm..it's hard to tell what's going on there in the pic. Switched power from the key switch needs to go to Rick's black and can also go to ignition coil (+)*, but that is all that should be combined. The Rick's white to field coil (rotor) green must be isolated to itself. The Rick's red must go to battery (+) ; that connection can be made at the battery terminal or, if more convenient, at the battery side of the starter solenoid.

*Between the key switch and ignition coils (+) there is typically a handlebar kill switch

Has this bike been completely re-wired and not have the original main wiring harness?
 
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