79 xs650 clutch hitting case

xanxs79

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I have a 79 xs650 project bike that has been sitting for the last couple decades. The clutches were stuck together I tore it apart and replaced the clutches it only had 6 plates in it and failed to work like it should. I noticed that there was about a 1/4 of an inch gap in between the last friction plate and pressure plate. I bought another plate and metal plate and added them it work like it should but when I put the side cover on the clutch it was impossible to pull in due to it hitting the side cover.
I am drawing a blank any idea why it is doing this? Do I have the wrong kind of clutch plates in it or is something not setting right?
 
A proper 79 clutch should have 7 friction plates and 6 steel plates.
When you put it back together, did you line up the little hole in the pressure plate with the little dot on the
yes. the last friction plate also protruded ever so slightly past the the clutch basket is it supposed to be flush or recessed
 
this is it with 7 friction plates
 

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I have also had the clutch hitting the inside cover many years ago ... Making a sound with clutch in
I don't remember exactly what it was but I rebuilt an engine 3 years ago and did a read up and there exists
3 different clutches for the never models and one for the older ( might not be exactly right ) needs to be careful what plates goes where and what washers where. If I recall right some pressure plates have different thickness
And what friction plates
 
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It should be a little recessed, as I recall.
http://biker.net/650parts_index.html
It's possible that you have a later year clutch. Beginning in 1980 6 friction plates were used. Go to above link, go to 1980 G, look at clutch drawing, and look for #8 which is a wire. Do you remember seeing it?
Definitely sticking out too much in your pic. Do what I said above, look for part #8, if it's there you have a 80 or later clutch.
 
It should be a little recessed, as I recall.
http://biker.net/650parts_index.html
It's possible that you have a later year clutch. Beginning in 1980 6 friction plates were used. Go to above link, go to 1980 G, look at clutch drawing, and look for #8 which is a wire. Do you remember seeing it?
I can not get that link to work but there is a wire at the back of the basket
 

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Yes, that's a later inner hub that only uses 6 friction plates. Besides the wire holding in the bottom steel plate, the other "tell" is the lock washer under the big center nut that gets bent up against the side of it. You should probably check all the plate thicknesses. The steel plates should be 1.4mm thick and the friction plates should be 3mm thick. Early frictions are 3.5mm thick and the steels are 1.6mm thick. That steel plate under the wire is different though, even though it looks the same. It is supposed to be 1.6mm thick.

It's also possible the hubs have been installed incorrectly, specifically the washer placement behind and between them. Here's a diagram showing the correct assembly sequence .....

Clutch Washers.jpg


It's possible someone put too many washers in there.
 
There is another possibility. The early clutch plates are thicker than the later ones. I don't know when the change happened, but I'm sure the later, thinner plates are correct for '79. I don't know the specs off hand, but I have no doubt somebody here will chime in. Maybe you have the wrong plates.
 
Yes, that's a later inner hub that only uses 6 friction plates. Besides the wire holding in the bottom steel plate, the other "tell" is the lock washer under the big center nut that gets bent up against the side of it. You should probably check all the plate thicknesses. The steel plates should be 1.4mm thick and the friction plates should be 3mm thick. Early frictions are 3.5mm thick and the steels are 1.6mm thick. That steel plate under the wire is different though, even though it looks the same. It is supposed to be 1.6mm thick.

It's also possible the hubs have been installed incorrectly, specifically the washer placement behind and between them. Here's a diagram showing the correct assembly sequence .....

View attachment 210161

It's possible someone put too many washers in there.
Hi 5twins, I have got round to rebuilding the clutch on my xs1b, when I use the washers as shown above and then torque the drive shaft nut up the whole clutch locks up and will not move, with the gearbox in neutral. I have seen 2 different torque figures, one is 96ft lbs, the other is 93 foot lbs. Which is the correct figure please. I also have 2x 1mm spacers "left over" and the washer behind the nut is 2.8mm not 2.6mm.Help please. Many thanks. Pete
 
So this diagram is actually from H.Pahl's XS650 book. I've marked it to make assembly direction perhaps clearer. From your description, it sounds as if you are missing washers behind the clutch basket. As to torque, personally, I think 90+ ftlbs is too high for that and I generally torque the boss nut to ~40ftlbs (later manuals support that too)
Clutch Washers.jpg.png

And...another link
2. Assembly

First thing to remember here is that, in their wisdom, Yamaha left a Thrust Washer off the diagrams. Between hub and boss they show a washer (25-50-2) and a thrust bearing – missing is the washer (31-51-0.5) between needle bearing and hub..(e)..
1680119727208.png
 

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So this diagram is actually from H.Pahl's XS650 book. I've marked it to make assembly direction perhaps clearer. From your description, it sounds as if you are missing washers behind the clutch basket. As to torque, personally, I think 90+ ftlbs is too high for that and I generally torque the boss nut to ~40ftlbs (later manuals support that too)
View attachment 239247
And...another link
2. Assembly

First thing to remember here is that, in their wisdom, Yamaha left a Thrust Washer off the diagrams. Between hub and boss they show a washer (25-50-2) and a thrust bearing – missing is the washer (31-51-0.5) between needle bearing and hub..(e)..
View attachment 239248
Hi there, thanks for getting back to me, I have 1x1mm and 1x2mm washers behind the clutch basket as per the diagram. It also appears that there is a bearing plate, letter E in situ flush with the spacer shaft. The diag also shows letter J as a conical spring, I have a large spring washer there. I willtry the torque figure you suggest and see what happens, when I stripped the clutch I had to use an air gun to ub=ndo the nut, it was tight. Cheers. Pete
 
Yes, thickness 1mm & 2mm behind clutch basket, then the shaft spacer (bushing), then basket, then 1mm washer, then bearing, then 2mm washer, then boss..

When assembled with the boss nut torqued, the boss (inner) should spin freely and the basket (primary driven gear) should not rub the case. If it does, we'll need some pics and measurements of the mainshaft install and parts involved
 
Please check the parts pictures for your bike and pay attention to the disks --frictions and steel

You state you have a 1979 but are given a link to a 80. Not sure why
I do remember that not all the plates have the same thickness depending on clutch year ordering a replacement disk .
Can mean you ordered the standard thickness and not the thinner one
If i recall right it is the one closest to the bottom in the clutch basket but please google for your year and start reading parts no and google
 
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