CLUTCH PUSH ROD

Clutch cable is like new and I have re-lubed it thoroughly. Reduced the angle slightly of the guide going into the casing as per 5T.
Inspected the two piece push rod, seal & bushing and all looks like new. I will now check the 'clocking' angle of the worm matches the position described elsewhere (by 5T I believe). Repack with red grease, ball bearing is present and correct. I did try and push the rod in by hand and its pretty hard.
Anyhow will finish this service and report back.
 
Worm adjuster is now set as per 5T; to be honest it wasn't far off anyway, but all tweeks are worth it.
5T's image left. Mine on the right (No cable attached obvs).
CLOCK POSITION.PNG
IMG_0179.jpeg
 
I had a really stiff clutch with a hard lever pull on my XS2 when I first got it running, it was so unlike the silky smooth clutch on my ‘77 that it caused me to do some comparison testing and the results were rather surprising. Spoiler…..I fixed it! 🙂 I added all this towards the end of 2M’s excellent thread that is worth perusing when you have time. But this link will take you right to my testing and results.

https://www.xs650.com/threads/xs650...-experiment-tidbits.31554/page-12#post-586870
 
Mailman said:
I had a really stiff clutch with a hard lever pull on my XS2 when I first got it running, it was so unlike the silky smooth clutch on my ‘77 that it caused me to do some comparison testing and the results were rather surprising. Spoiler…..I fixed it! 🙂 I added all this towards the end of 2M’s excellent thread that is worth perusing when you have time. But this link will take you right to my testing and results.

https://www.xs650.com/threads/xs650...-experiment-tidbits.31554/page-12#post-586870
Click to expand...
Thanks Bob.
 
Removed the Worm actuator and cleaned it thoroughly.
Taking Bob's advice I have re-drilled the worm actuator arm at 45mm from worm center to center of clevis pin attachment.
I was surprised to find my worm was made of metal; most I have seen here have been some sort of plastic.
IMG_0180.jpeg
35mm.PNG
45mm.PNG


AnyHoo, all has been re-lubed and refitted with care. Side case refitted and adjust as instructed by the forum.
What a difference! Clutch is now really easy and so much smoother. Also neutral is easier to find; just running on the bike stand.
Biggest difference must be the re-drilling to reposition the clevis pin.
No chance to test out on the road today, maybe tomorrow; hoping the slipping has been eliminated also.
 
The only drawback to moving the clevis farther out like you did is less clutch plate separation. You won't know if this is an issue or not until you get the bike good and hot. Keep an eye on that aftermarket pushrod. Some skip the hardening process and wear rather quickly .....

Pushrods2.jpg


For this reason, I only use originals now. If you watch eBay, they come up all the time and can usually be found for around the same price as the aftermarket ones.
 
The male part of the worm is metal on all of these. The female part is the plastic or nylon part.
 
5twins said:
The only drawback to moving the clevis farther out like you did is less clutch plate separation. You won't know if this is an issue or not until you get the bike good and hot. Keep an eye on that aftermarket pushrod. Some skip the hardening process and wear rather quickly .....

View attachment 243622

For this reason, I only use originals now. If you watch eBay, they come up all the time and can usually be found for around the same price as the aftermarket ones.
Click to expand...
Thanks 5T, I read this during my build process. I will keep it in mind..
 
Rwturner said:
Hello, I’m new here and not up to snuff on most of the pertinent nomenclature.what is a clutch perch?is it called anything else?thanks
Click to expand...

I believe some stateside call the clutch lever a ‘clutch perch’. 🧐
 
Rwturner said:
Hello, I’m new here and not up to snuff on most of the pertinent nomenclature.what is a clutch perch?is it called anything else?thanks
Click to expand...
A clutch perch is the part that bolts onto the handle bar. The clutch lever sits in the clutch perch connected to the cable and has a pivot bolt.
 
Manganese bronze has a similar heat expansion rate to aluminum, but being bronze the ends should stand up to the balls a lot better. No idea of the heat expansion rate of phosphor bronze (easier to find than manganese bronze) but I'd imagine it'd be similar to Manganese bronze.

Phosphor bronze has a higher percentage of copper, so probably closer to aluminium in terms of heat expansion than manganese bronze. Of course manganese bronze has a few extra addititives (lead and iron) over phosphor bronze, so,that possibly has a bearing on the heat expansion rate.

Either way, bronze, regardless of additives, is way better than steel. And any sort of bronze will have better wear properties than aluminium.
 
Adamc said:
Removed the Worm actuator and cleaned it thoroughly.
Taking Bob's advice I have re-drilled the worm actuator arm at 45mm from worm center to center of clevis pin attachment.
I was surprised to find my worm was made of metal; most I have seen here have been some sort of plastic.
View attachment 243617 View attachment 243618 View attachment 243619

AnyHoo, all has been re-lubed and refitted with care. Side case refitted and adjust as instructed by the forum.
What a difference! Clutch is now really easy and so much smoother. Also neutral is easier to find; just running on the bike stand.
Biggest difference must be the re-drilling to reposition the clevis pin.
No chance to test out on the road today, maybe tomorrow; hoping the slipping has been eliminated also.
Click to expand...
So Adam, how was neutral finding when you got it off the center stand? ;)
 
IMG_6976.jpegIMG_6977.jpegI can attest to how nice the new plates are. I installed them and a newer clutch basket also supplied by gggGary and the difference was exactly what I was looking for. I did have to order a set of new metal plates that I found on EBay as the newer plates are thinner but it cured my clutch issues. I haven’t had a chance to test it on a long ride but a quick trip around my area on a rare warmer day was a win. My old fiber plates were in spec but as they were probably the OEM factory plates they just didn’t do the job anymore.
 
I will also add that I installed some newer HD springs. The old ones were also in spec at 34.5mm but again probably the original factory springs. The new ones were somewhere around 36mm iirc. I also oiled and correctly routed the cable, greased the actuator, installed a new perch, lever and pivot bolt. I have a nice, firm easy to pull clutch with a smooth friction zone entry.
 

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