No nuetral while engine is running

My long time tracker build was completed last year and I'm very happy with the results but have this problem. The bike goes easily into nuetral while engine is not running and shifts well while riding however it will not go into nuetral while engine is running, I did replace the clutch discs and plates during the build but motor with only 12,000 mile was left as is.
Any ideas as to why I have the nuetral problem with engine running? any help would be greatly appreciated I would also mention that I have only put about 50 miles on the bike since finishing my build. Maybe just needs to be run more. Thoughts?

You mean while at a stop? Yeah they're all like that. LOL
read up on setting the "worm gear" adjustment at the LH access cover.
With careful work they can be made to shift to neutral with little or no effort.
Meantime most "real bikers" shift to neutral before coming to a complete stop. Cuz wet plate clutches have drag, it's the nature of the beast.

If it’s being difficult you can usually just kinda feather the clutch enough to make the bike rock a bit, while you’re trying to nudge the shifter into neutral. Sometimes it takes a few tries.

billyb said:

My long time tracker build was completed last year and I'm very happy with the results but have this problem. The bike goes easily into nuetral while engine is not running and shifts well while riding however it will not go into nuetral while engine is running, I did replace the clutch discs and plates during the build but motor with only 12,000 mile was left as is.
Any ideas as to why I have the nuetral problem with engine running? any help would be greatly appreciated I would also mention that I have only put about 50 miles on the bike since finishing my build. Maybe just needs to be run more. Thoughts?

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Adjustment
I Put it on Central stand ---Rear wheel in the Air .
Solid Boots on
Start the engine put it in gear .. release the clutch Wheel spins
Pull in the clutch try to stop the wheel with the foot.
If problems I adjust at the side of the engine
If to loose adjustment it will slip ( Clutch ) on the road Readjust Can have the 2 tools needed with you
It can still have a little problems especially warm days

It might be worthwhile checking the selector adjustment.



Also make sure the idle speed isn't set too high.

Jan_P said:

adjust at the side of the engine
If to loose adjustment it will slip ( Clutch )

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Wouldn't it be more likely to slip if the adjustment was tight? If tight it would be putting pressure against pressure plate if loose the pressure plate would be more tight on the clutch pack? I just wanna be sure I'm thinking about this correctly.

joebgd said:

Wouldn't it be more likely to slip if the adjustment was tight? If tight it would be putting pressure against pressure plate if loose the pressure plate would be more tight on the clutch pack? I just wanna be sure I'm thinking about this correctly.

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Yes Sir We are possibly talking about the same thing here
Its been a while since I last done it so not 100 % sure -- 98 % Can be semantics and language here
Loose screw or loose clutch
If one turns the clutch adjuster Phillips Head screw clockwise inwards the more it disengages the clutch and more disengaging more likely to slip
Counter clockwise it disengage less and not at all pulling the clutch handle if to far out or not there .less likely to slip ( but cant shift )

In this case if you are referring to the machine on the central stand idling in gear and the wheel spinning in the air you can notice it via the boot on the Tyre side clutch handle in which way is getting the appropriate .

Or if no central stand with the two tools out on the road was it 13 mm spanner and 2 JIS screwdriver
If to loose ( screw ) it clonks and gets difficult shifting gear
If to tight ( screw ) clutch slips and the rev makes a jump when accelerating not corresponding to any Acceleration

I dont know if anyone else does it this way . Probably not " Boot on the Tyre " I know there are other instructions with some adjusting at the handlebar But this have worked for me.

There are safety issues of course be careful with the foot on the side of the Tyre so the bike dont jump off the central stand with spinning wheel and
careful about The foot placement

Another thing to check is the clutch basket fingers. The basket is aluminium, so, with rough use the plates put grooves in the clutch plate fingers, if the grooves are deep enough, the plates may hang up a little. Worth checking. The fingers on my 74 were grooved quite severely, I've filed them down a little to smooth the dents, but haven't checked neutral engagement with the bike running yet.
Of course, with filing the basket fingers, the gap where the clutch plate sits gets wider, so the plates tend to crash a little harder against the basket fingers.
Now, if you had a real 360 degree twin, one made in Britland, this wouldn't be a problem!