It's time to start a winter Project. The Red Bike

Pretty clean looking fab on this license bracket??
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Started fitting the Commandos today. Curiously the fitting is different from @Ben1 experience. My best fit is using muff brackets from the stock system (I assume stock system). Since those brackets have lots of years (rust) on them I will get out the mini grinder and coarse rol lock pads then shoot them in rustoleum black. Side note, one seems to have a shipping ding but I can orient it to face down and in so only I (and you) will know it exists.;)
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If supplied with the mufflers, do use the sliding track insert ......

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If you just put the bolt heads in the track, they won't hold long (they'll bust out of it). If you didn't get these tapped slide track bars, I recommend you make some.
 
If supplied with the mufflers, do use the sliding track insert ......

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If you just put the bolt heads in the track, they won't hold long (they'll bust out of it). If you didn't get these tapped slide track bars, I recommend you make some.
Thanks, I will revisit that supplied hardware.
 
Started fitting the Commandos today. Curiously the fitting is different from @Ben1 experience. My best fit is using muff brackets from the stock system (I assume stock system). Since those brackets have lots of years (rust) on them I will get out the mini grinder and coarse rol lock pads then shoot them in rustoleum black. Side note, one seems to have a shipping ding but I can orient it to face down and in so only I (and you) will know it exists.;)View attachment 245130

It’s shaping up to be a real beauty! :geek:
 
So I am seeing a major oversight on my part. I never intended to have a headlight aiming bracket and that item never reared it's ugly head until I fitted the shell to the new mounts. Do I leave it hanging out in the breeze or figure a neat way to cut it off with out damaging the stunning "Paint by Jim" finish?
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So I am seeing a major oversight on my part. I never intended to have a headlight aiming bracket and that item never reared it's ugly head until I fitted the shell to the new mounts. Do I leave it hanging out in the breeze or figure a neat way to cut it off with out damaging the stunning "Paint by Jim" finish?
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Only a couple... maybe 4 spot welds. Just drill the bracket off. Iffn you drill all the way through the bucket, call 'em "drain holes." ;)
 
And it never ends... I did a preliminary set of the exhaust. The P-clamps that mount the head pipes to the frame need 1/4"- 3/8" spacers to keep the muffs outside the axle nut. Shouldered bolts are the hot ticket for pushing the clamp together. 12mm bolts and a washer or 2 make a cheap spacer.
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Due to the way these bikes vibrate, I'm not sure just the two bolts into the sides of the bucket will be enough to hold it where you want it pointing for long. I think that may be why Yamaha put that stay on there.
Vibrate? Really?


I will aim and snug it up good and tight...

...and avoid night riding if that fails.
 
On the plus side, my Trillings True Value run today scored 4 front fender mount bolts because I can't find the originals. The air grinder will be out tomorrow so I can dress those up a bit. Then I can put the first scratches in my "Paint by Jim" front fender.
 
Only a couple... maybe 4 spot welds. Just drill the bracket off. Iffn you drill all the way through the bucket, call 'em "drain holes." ;)
..and I choose "Candy Apple Red" sharpie to cover the bare metal?
I was thinking a duct tape mask, a 3 inch cut-off wheel, gentle sand and a rustoleum red touch up on the bare metal.
 
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Due to the way these bikes vibrate, I'm not sure just the two bolts into the sides of the bucket will be enough to hold it where you want it pointing for long. I think that may be why Yamaha put that stay on there.
you're right there 5T. My non standard non-retained headlight needs readjusting after every third ride, however tight I bolt it up with thread lock.
But I like the stripped down unsupported look.

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And it never ends... I did a preliminary set of the exhaust. The P-clamps that mount the head pipes to the frame need 1/4"- 3/8" spacers to keep the muffs outside the axle nut. Shouldered bolts are the hot ticket for pushing the clamp together. 12mm bolts and a washer or 2 make a cheap spacer.View attachment 245144
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My gosh, theres a tool you dont see a lot of folks use (Speed Handle). Especially if they havent had a background in the aircraft world.

I have soooo many miles operating one of those! Removing entire upper wing panels off of F-117 Stealth Fighters with hundreds and hundreds of aluminum screws in them (with Torx bits no less).

Also been smacked in the face by more than one on lower side of an F-15 Eagle or two when removing panels with those stupid coin slot fasteners in them! The bit slips while youre applying torque upon removal or installation and wham...right in the face! :doh::yikes:
 
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