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Remove the dipstick and blow compressed air in crankcase while sealing it with a rag and pinching the vent hose with pliers. It will push the pushrod right out of there.

The spring is off of the old seal. Use the long rod and a small magnet to remove the extra ball. I used a drill bit turned by hand with vice grips to remove the bushing. I think Mikes has instructions on that. Remove the chain to properly install the seal.

Parts from the XS1100/XS750 standard models will work. It's what I used on my 80.

Frank's Maintenance and Engineering, Inc.

I think we're working way to hard here. The procedure you saw in the video was given to me at a Yamaha Service Seminar between 1978 and 80. The procedure covered a valve noise in the shim over bucket 1977 XS750D due to loose manufacturing tolerances in the cam grind. The loosest point in...

Check this out on youtube. Yamaha XS650 valve adjustment made easy

hope this helps

BTY I've been doing this crap since 1973.

Use Yamaha dip carb cleaner, part # ACC-CARBC-LE-NR available at any Yamaha dealer. Mix it with 2 parts water and store it in a sturdy plastic jug for future use. This stuff will not hurt your rubber and plastic parts and will melt away varnish and stale fuel residue in a couple of hours. One...

It's located on the bottom of the switch. It will be a letter followed by a 5 digit number. They can be very hard to see and usually requires removal of the switch, at least for my weak eyes. Ebay #390390401054

These coils are great. They have a super hot spark and will fit under the tank if you are not faint of heart. I run them on my 270 re-phase with points.

Well said figure8. Always start with a good running bike.

Looks like one of the rivets that hold the clutch hub together. Pull it back off and take a look.

Pry marks. Carbs were probably gummed up and the slides were stuck. I've seen a bunch of it. It won't hurt the performance one bit.

On the 76 model the yellow goes to a relay that prevents the starter from engaging while the engine is running. On later models it also switched the head light on. Keep your yellow wire.

Pete's right. Thats the simpliest way to do it.

The threads will pull out that easy if over tightened. The easiest and neatest fix is Time-sert.

I'm not sure what to ask next?

WOW ???

With a fresh engine I'm not sure 35 would be an outrageous number. I've never checked mine to see what torque it turns at but I will soon. Sounds like you did your homework so install it and fire it up.