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*Update* Battery charged overnight. 12.7v New coil installed. 4.5 ohm. Charging system still disconnected. Key on. 9v drop with just coil wired. 10v drop with just headlight wired. 2v drop with just turns wired. ……Going to exchange for a new battery.

So I’m going with a coil off mikesxs Part #17-6822. And exploring options for a new rotor or pma

Yes the voltage drop remains. I am looking around for a replacement coil.

The stator and rotor are 80s. The reg/rec is the solid state type and I assume stock but honestly don’t know how to verify that other than looking at pictures. The reg/rec has only one plug coming from it. Wires are red green black brown three white-ish.

It’s an 80s model. And I’m definitely going to keep the rewind in mind. However I would hate to spend the money rewinding or replacing only to have my supposedly “good” battery fry it or any of the other components for that matter. I’ll continue with my testing and try to rule out as many...

I also charged my battery and took it to be load tested which it supposedly passed.

so I am revisiting my charging system wiring. I’m assuming I’ll need to replace my rotor at the very least since it tested at 3 ohms and not 5. But I have gone over some other wiring diagrams on the forum for the harness leaving the stator. Many show a black wire that appears to need grounding...

I thought about this so I tried testing that out by touching the wire to the ignition coil direct to battery and the drop still remains. Going to take the battery to be load tested today. If it does fail that will make 2 batteries within a 2 month span to fail.

I will charge the battery, get a proper 4-5 ohm coil ordered, test the rotor and follow up. But with the rotor being the only connected part of the charging system, there is still a large draw from the battery to the ignition system. I’m not sure how, if the coil is testing good, it could make...

The bike was TCI ignition stock a 1981. The pickup and black box removed and points installed. Combo reg rec. With the harness to the stator housing completely disconnected, housing and all plug in the wind. would the rotor alone still installed be capable of drawing current from the battery...

I guess then my next question is, with the charging system disconnected from the battery, would the rotor still be able to draw from the battery through the connection of the points to the engine?

The battery. Key on, both leads of my meter to the battery voltage drop from 12.6+ to 5-6v

So I have got the bike back home. I have stripped the janky wiring down to just ignition system and charging system. A few things I found: Testing resistance on the coil primary to the mounting points. I didn’t know if you meant the core (mounts of the coil) or the mounting points of the...

The sticker on top says 6ah. When I was using the starter it would crank quickly and solidly so I would think above 200CCA, unfortunately there isn’t anything specifying on the box or battery itself. A googoo search may be in order. Yes I have removed the starter wiring as I have grown to enjoy...

The battery I am using is a Duralast gold agm power sorts battery. Unit AZX7A.

Also if I disconnect the right side points wire and leave the left connected there is no loss in voltage.

When I remove the points wires from the harness connecting to the coil, I get 12v+ at the coil. Would this indicate my points are somehow causing a voltage drop via a short, or am I still dealing with a coil issue? Please forgive my incompetence.

I have a 81 rotor and the stock reg that came with, with points off of 79.

I kept the stock charging system as it tested good. That is to say it was charging the battery.