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I continuity tested each and every wire I tested today and they were all totally fine. The harness was brand new when I installed it. There's no teeth marks or any scrapes or pinches in it whatsoever. I'm for sure making a stupid mistake somewhere. I get 12v to the horn but it's got a weak...

Where do they usually choose to put the other end of that wire? I'm definitely not opposed to it. I noticed when I tapped my lead to the brake line it also grounded out just fine. Perhaps that's not a good thing. I remember way back before I replaced the switches that I electrically melted the...

If I use a jumper from positive post on battery to power side of horn, and boost my handlebar ground with a jumper straight to the battery, then plug my pink wire in, then the button works just fine... But if I use the harness to try and accomplish the same goal I get nowhere. Surely I'm having...

I'm no doubt having issues with the bars being grounded. If I wirebthe horn with clips straight to the battery it'll blow. And it'll blow off I touch the front fender, the forks, the motor, etc. not when I touch the bars.

I don't think it'd help me. It's probably a me issue. As in: a skill issue. Electrical has always been my downfall. I can fix problems I can see. Not ones that I can't see. The horn is the simplest thing on a bike and I can't get it to blow. Lol.

My right hand switch has all the wiring colors to match a 76 diagram. The left hand switch has all the colors to match a 78 diagram. I need to basically pretend the wire colors on the switch are a lie, cross reference both diagrams to determine which wire does what, then connect them to their...

I printed both of them out. But I'm probably going to go nuts either way. The ignition switch is a three wire switch. The P.O all those years ago spliced in extra double female bullet connectors for the brown wire, lengthened the red wire, and added a red/yellow wire and an extra blue wire...

Is it normal for the turn signal. Relay to click when you turn the key on and off??? Something isn't right here and I still don't know what. But I'm starting to feel like I'm chasing a ghost. Considering all possibilities.

This shit is hard. I took a break from trying to get the motor to crank with the button and moved over to the other side to try and get the horn to work. I continuity tested the black wire to the bare metal on the bars verify good ground. I have that now. I also continuity tested the pink wire...

So basically... If my bars are painted... I'm gonna have a bad time.

It still only functions when I use a jumper from the switch directly to the ground wire though. I'll have to figure it out from here but at least I know it works.

Sumbitch... It was me.. I was the problem... The starter button works alright. When the killswitch is IN THE OFF POSITION. So I have that fucker wired wrong. Not the button. What a learning experience

I have good continuity all the way through the blue/white wire. Checked that in case there was a broken wire in the harness somehow (you never know) I did the same thing with the red/white wire. Both are good. I also checked to make sure the button produced a beep with my meter when...

Further more, when I connect a jumper from the negative side of the battery to the blue white at the solenoid with key on, I get the starter to crank. So the only thing not working is the grounding function of the button itself. I'm getting closer. Does the switch have a ground that I'm...

I'm getting a measurement that is about 1VDC lower than Batt. Voltage.

Alright... I get a resistance of 3.5Ω when I measure between red/white and blue/white. So it passes THAT test. I was smart enough to put my battery on the tender last night so I knew I'd get good results when testing today. I'm thinking next step may be trying to diag this safety relay.

Tomorrow is another day. I'm tired of sitting in the dark and getting pelted with dumbass beetles trying to find the light behind me.

Black lead directly to frame ground Red lead directly touching the blue/white wire at the block of the solenoid. Meter set to Ω. I get a direct reading of 7.5Ω

Gosh... It actually works then. Because it does just fine charging my battery. I know that for a fact. Already tested that...:doh:

When I go from battery ground strap to blue/white solder joint directly on the solenoid I get 10.2ohms. this is with the solenoid blue/white wire DISCONNECTED from the harness and no leads connected.