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The seal at the end of the spring?
Still have the original?
I've compared the seal I removed to one from a kit a few times and put the original back in...
Once you get at least some layer of the gasket off your chemical of choise has a chance to soak in.
carb cleaner, acetone, some such is my usual "helper", soak some, work some, repeat, repeat, repeat.
re-torque the headstuds once or twice in the first 500 miles do an early oil change and reset the valves and cam chain tension.
look at the plugs, watch oil level. Keep varying RPM don't lug it, limit high speed, gradually increase top RPM
An insider/midwest US joke?
Vince Lombardi is the Patron Saint of the Green Bay Packers football team, a distinctly Wisconsin favorite, perhaps not as revered by the other states that border on Lake "Lombardi". capiche? ;)
Pretty sure yes, the steel insert is placed in the mold the aluminum cast around it. Like you say that's a thin slot to squeeze aluminum into, cold cast flaking away is going to happen now and then.
Shot by a friend and fellow XS'r full disclosure there might have been a little photoshop used.
Now a foot bridge in a park I drove my car and truck over it many times when it was in use about 2 miles further down the Baraboo river.
You made me look, random motors from the SOIR. I think one is a 70 case. That 70 kick start is an early production only wonder, the parts count was reduced and gear ratio changed later on.
Just mentioning; my cheap little 15? year old harbor freight US cleaner with a soft sheet push button control panel has been used and abused forever and the danged thing still works.
Put some acetone on a rag rub it a bit. If it comes off yeah likely redkote. I wouldn't leave it in.....
I just cleaned a 71 tank that "had" redkote, saw red gas in the floatbowls. That's when i removed the redkote, acetone had it out in short order.