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Running an o-ring chain? Pull the left crankcase cover and look for signs of the chain rubbing against the clutch release arm.

The purchase price is almost always the smallest item on the sheet, when you add up the cost of everything at the end of the project.

https://mooregoodink.com/camshaft-lobe-separation-what-does-it-mean/

Crack the bleeder screw loose briefly next time it's dragging. If it releases, with the bleed screw open, that means the master cylinder piston is not retracting enough to open the relief port inside. Still dragging?, time to overhaul the caliper.

Did you happen to bump the kick lever, with your leg, When rolling it backwards in gear?

Led headlight? Try reversing the connections.

How does the spark plug, on that side, look?

More important, they're even on the bottom, that affects off-idle response.

It looks like the light green wire is grounded,with the horn button pushed. I'm guessing the wire it plugs into, in the headlight, is pink.

Copper-plated aluminum strands, something to watch out for when buying wire supplies on the web.

That conversion kit also accepts the NAPA 1358 oil filter( WIX 51358), likely in stock at your local parts store.

One way to for adequate wire gauge is to use a voltmeter to measure voltage drop. with the meter set to "volts" connect the leads to either end of the cable, then watch the meter while you crank the starter. A reading of one volt or less, while cranking, should be acceptable.

The washers behind the clutch hub and drum are out of sequence.

Sounds like good way to weaken the piston, so the skirt could break off. I remember a time when some of the 2-stroke racers were drilling the back side of their pistons, to get more air/fuel mix into the crankcase and maybe go faster. I remember seeing some of those pistons with the skirts...

Stopped in at our local Dodge dealer last summer and out front is a new 1/2 ton pickup, $75,000 plus, sticker price, how do people afford these things? I guess I live on the wrong end of the food chain, no way am I going to spend more money than I paid for my house, on a depreciating asset like...

Set your voltmeter to "volts", put one lead on the positive battery post and the other lead on the bulb filament connection. With the headlight turned on, there will be a small voltage reading, that is the "voltage drop" in that circuit, hopefully one volt or less. Check high and low beam, then...

I would add a dedicated ground wire, tying all the components together, including a branch going to a crankcase or head bolt. That head light will work a lot better if it's not trying to find ground thru the steering bearings or the clutch cable.

The old guy, who use to be our shop mechanic, had one of those light-equipped torque wrenches. Actually kind of handy to use,lying under a truck, torquing main bearing caps.

"Gee, where did I drop that cigarette? "

Two angle iron rectangles, forming the top and the base, linked together with two sets of parallel square tubing legs. Lifted by my big floor jack, one inch square tube arms reach down to some welded-on stops on the base for height stops.