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I've been meaning to talk to you about your choke, just never got around to it. I think it's operating normally. Both my bikes act pretty much the same, and that's with around a half dozen different carb sets I've tried. Yes, the motor needs the choke for a cold start, even in warm weather, but...

I can't tell you that for sure. To check how much space you have, you'll need to remove the fork springs and fully compress the forks. Stock, the tube was flush with the top of the tree. I only raise it 1/4" because I run a fork brace as well and that's all the space I have ......

Yes, but it's not iron, it's aluminum.

Well, it wouldn't work with the speedo drive on the right because it would be running/turning backwards, lol. The drive needs to be in these as an axle spacer, even if it's not hooked up.

Since the cases are essentially "glued" together with gasket sealer and there are no really good spots to pry or pound on, I use the power of hydraulics, lol ......

I made up a couple "special tools" for fork seal removal. First, to protect the top of the lower, a small piece of aluminum angle with a "finger" cut into it and bent down. It sits very nicely on top of the lower ...... Then, for prying the seals out, I rounded the tip on a big old square...

Yes, slide the tubes out of the triple tree and swap them, side to side. And when re-installing them, you can't extend them so far above the top tree like they were. With a fender mounted, it will hit the bottom tree when the forks are fully compressed. I lower my forks but only a little (1/4")...

Just a couple observations - first, I can't believe you stuck those plastic limiting caps back on the mix screws, lol. Second, you should install one more longer screw in the carb tops, where the throttle cable bracket mounts. Yamaha cheaped out there and used a screw that's too short. But other...

Yes, there should be a spring, small washer, and tiny o-ring on each mix screw. The washer and o-ring often remain stuck down in the hole (the spring may be in there too) and must be "fished" out with a little "special tool" (safety wire w/ a little hook bent on the end) ..... Yes, the...

Yes, there's nothing wrong with a well sorted set of stock carbs, so much so that I've never even considered switching to aftermarket ones. Over the years I've managed to acquire a couple extra sets of later linked carbs ('76-'77 and '78-'79 sets). My last set came off Craigslist, a nice '78-'79...

10 lbs does seem like a lot. Mine all lose air too, front more than rears for some reason. I would consider changing the tube at the next tire change but until then, I'd just put up with it, lol. I run all different brands of tubes, some new and some old. If an old tube has no patches on it...

Yes, most of us think the factory shop manual is best. Most editions are available for free here ..... https://thexscafedotcom.wordpress.com/2011/01/10/xs650-manuals/ Yamaha only published full manuals every couple of years, the in-between years got supplements. The '78 full manual with...

Yes, we're not trying to talk you out of a 650, just that particular one, lol.

Oh why not? Here's my '83 when I dragged it home. It sat in a barn then a garage for nearly 20 years, lol ..... Even if you don't post them, do take pictures of it now just so you can look back at them and see how far you've come once it's done, lol.

Are you sure you're ready for a kick start only bike?

Yes, on motor seals, I use regular grease, but on these fork seals, I thought the red rubber grease might be a good choice as well. Maybe help preserve them and keep them soft? Anyway, so far it's been working well.

Oh boy, take a chase van, lol. These are great old bikes but this one isn't really the best choice for a beginner. They require more maintenance than a newer bike, things like more frequent oil changes, setting points and timing, setting valves and cam chain tension. What I look for are ones...

I packed the seals in the '83 full of red rubber grease when I serviced those forks ,,,,,, The seals were good and not leaking so I didn't replace them. I just cleaned them out real good then packed them with grease. I also put some on the tops because I've found that snap ring and washer all...

Well, these all need some work, even the ones that look nice, and having one that's a mix of parts from many different years will make that harder. The early motors are harder to get parts for and they cost more. Even though I like having a kick start, the electric start is very nice and I think...

Yes definitely a "bitsa", lol. Forks and front brake are '76, and the forks look extended. Carbs are a '76 -'79 linked set and the gas tank looks newer as well because it has vacuum petcocks. The motor may be a 1970 and if it is, that would make it kick only. Personally, I'd pass on this one...