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That is awesome! I certainly could use one!

Thank you for all the help, guys. Hugh is taking care of me, and I can not thank him, and all of you, enough for the help. This has been very frustrating to say the least. But at least now I have a better understanding on how to use my meter! 20 miles on the bike, first time getting it on the...

I am about to give up on this crap. I will buy another reg/rec and see if it fixes the issue. I have no idea what brand Hugh sells to get any info from anyways. So numbers are pointless.

By the results would that mean the reg/rect is operating normally in your opinion?

Got a new meter to double check my readings. I am using a new auto range digital meter set to auto/ohms to check against my cheapie $5 meter. Here are the readings going by your directions: Stator without engine running- .5 at all three wires and no reading to the steel body. Reg/rect-...

If it wasn't for all the sawzalls and grinders, there wouldn't be much of a market for these bikes. Just saying.

Thanks, Leo. Will do this evening. We should make a sticky, or at least a thread, on this type of thing so you don't have to write so much. This with the pamco test procedure. I know this issue has come up in the past, but the info is all over, in bits and pieces, while searching the forum. For...

Probing the plug for the reg/rect/stator, I am getting 0.1-0.3 on the dc scale. Depending on which wire I test. Would this indicate or point to a bad reg/rect? Or is there a way to test each the stator and reg/rect individually and separate from each other?

Not getting any voltage at the cap, Leo. If there was anything it was very low, under a volt.

Swap fuses first. Double check all connections/grounds. I am having these same issues myself. Just don't have the time to mess with it until the weekend. You running a Pamco as well?

Thanks for the replies. Yes, the diagram I posted was not mine, but figured since this was an electrical question I would post a diagram, something close, to what I have. I am only running a capacitor. I fired the bike up with just the battery on the floor as Pete suggested. Reg/rect...

No, that is the wiring for the bike in general, minus the battery. I found that diagram on this site to illustrate. I am only running a capacitor. I completely isolated the system with a car battery on the floor as you mentioned. I unplugged the regulator/rect for the test. Kill switch is off...

I jumped the hot side of the coil as mentioned. Hooked frame ground wire to frame. Had positive hooked to battery, but as soon as I connected the negative post to the battery, instant backfire out the pipe. Scared the crap out of me. I was kicking it over earlier in the day, so I am guessing...

Do not use JB weld. There is a LOT of tension on each cable end, JB will fail. Do it right and solder. It is super simple with a torch. Get some 50/50 solder at the hardware store and some flux.

Thanks, Pete. I will give it a shot. But I was running a single cap before I added the second, thinking that may solve the dimming light issue, but it did not. So don't think it will help me getting it to fire by removing one. But will try. They are in fact parallel. Pos to pos, neg to neg...

I believe parallel. My knowledge is not that great with electricity. I am running two caps for redundancy/backup. Was running a small battery pack, but I was having charging problems as well, or just bad batteries, so I went to a cap. No lights were on. When I kick the bike I get the .01 volt...

I will try later when I can get to the bike, but for a little more info- I did use some jumper wires from a car battery to my capacitor earlier today and it started. I then disconnected the battery. And kicked it over and it fired on the caps alone. I then rode it around to adjust carbs. I...

I am having some charging problems. '76 XS650, complete Pamco, Hugh's PMA with reg/rect combo, new dual high output coil (mike's black) kick only and running 2 capacitors inline. No battery. Was running, then once hot, died on me and I could not get it to start. Multi meter at the capacitor...

They will most likely have to verify the numbers for the DMV, so thus the CHP inspection. You will have to make an appointment with the CHP unfortunately. Keep all the blinkers and everything on it. They just need to verify the numbers to make sure it is not stolen. That is the problem with...

I'm in the IE. I would have the numbers ran by DMV and then do the CHP inspection before you tear it apart. If no back fees, and you have no other troubles, I would put it on non op until you are ready to register it.