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I may be going to look at one here soon, same year and model, not for me but for a friend of a friend ..... It's been sitting a long time, since '95 according to the last inspection sticker. But this is what makes it so desirable ..... If it's not seized I'm going to recommend he get it...

But, they all need a good going through, even the nice ones, especially the wiring. It is, after all, a 40+ year old bike, lol.

I see the centerstand has been "upgraded" to a later one with the braced tang, good deal.

Other than the one-year-only brass floats, this is a pretty good year. But if the carbs were drained, the floats should be OK. Last '80 set I refurbed weren't drained, and the gas varnish ate holes in the floats, lol. We replaced them with plastic ones because I feel they're better (solid foam...

Yes, eye bolts through the pipe would probably work just fine. You might want to wrap some rubber around the front one as it contacts the front of the motor when you lift.

I bought the Suzuki copper washers for my '78 years ago but eventually found much cheaper ones on eBay so that's what I use now ..... https://www.ebay.com/itm/155166672311?var=455348255804

Well yes, I'm sure they went up, lol. But you can still find them pretty reasonably priced if you shop around ..... https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/shock-boots-and-bellows?N=brand%3Adaystar I use the Daystar brand because I know they fit perfectly. The bottom is a perfect fit on...

On the headlight plug, black is ground, green is low beam power, and yellow has two wires connected to it - one yellow in with high beam power, and one yellow out to the high beam indicator up on the dash (or in one of the instruments). Looking at a wiring diagram would tell you all this and...

The part # is the same? But I guess that doesn't mean they are really All Balls. Personally, I do away with the dust boots and add gaiters instead. I like the look and the protection against dirt and fork tube damage is better. I use boots made for truck shocks. They are very well made and...

Yes, there is a friction or "drag" clip on the #4 starter gear. This is supposed to slow it's rotation down so it will engage the gear on the crank correctly and fully. The clip spreads open over time and gets weak. Then it slips on the gear and doesn't slow it's rotation as it should. The gear...

I have one of those but I never do it that way because it involves breaking the chain (removing the master link). That's more of a P.I.T.A. than taking a muffler off.

Melnic ...... This only works on the '78 models and is a very worthwhile "mod" in my opinion. You can easily change it back if you wanted to, but I don't see why you would.

If the piston only comes so far out and stops, you may have to "work" it. Press it back in with a big C-clamp, blow it out again, press it back in, blow it out, etc. Some penetrating oil around it's edges will help. Eventually it will come all the way out.

I'm just wondering why this happened. First time I've heard of a cam chain destructing like this.

If you split the caliper in half, you'll find a cross-over hole at the top between the two halves. You need to block that off so cut a small square of aluminum from a beer can or something, place it over the hole, and bolt the caliper halves back together. Now you can blow compressed air in...

Those might be a pretty good plug. I never tried one but I may look into them seeing that the NGK BP7ES is getting harder to find.

Yes, if the carbs are the originals, they would be BS34s. They're a good carb set, once you jet past the factory lean settings (one up on the mains, 2 down on the air jets for an all stock machine, 2 up on the mains, one up on the pilots, and one down on the air jet for your typical "pipes and...

For the cam chain, I prefer the Tsubaki brand as opposed to the D.I.D. It's said that it's a bit better (stronger) and as an added bonus, is usually cheaper as well. I used to get them directly from Yamaha but their price has gone up. Best deal now seems to be from YamahaXS650.com ...

I like to do the "ride and wrench" thing to mine. I get the bike up and running, then over the next few years, I refine it (mods) and get it looking better. I've never done a full resto, probably never will, lol. Here's my '83 shortly after I got it up and running. The only major change was the...

Yes, I think Yamaha realized the "error in their ways" after a couple years of using the no-lock nut type D assembly and came out with the type E, putting the lock nut back on there.