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I'm checking it out now! Thank you for the help!

I did all the mods. When I purchased the bike, it had all the stock air filters, exhaust, charging sysytem and points. When I first bought it, it ran find but had low compression (I have since did a top end rebuild on it). It lines up with the advance when I rev it and at idle it lines up...

So I'm not 100% sure about my advance. I had to make my own markings and if i remember correctly it was 38 or 40 BTDC for the advance. When I put the strobe on it, it lines up to the advance when i accelerate. But is there something else that I should be checking at this point? If not, then...

I have a 1981 with stock BS 34's, pamco ignition, xs charge pma with capacitor (kick only), 'Ya mama" pandemonium open exhaust and foam pod air filters. The bike starts and idles fine. Once I get it into the mid to higher RPM's it begins to sputter and pop and sounds like its drowning out or...

:thumbsup:

Just going with Clymers

Exhaust is .004 and intake is .002

You made me second guess my work...just went out to the shop and checked my valve spacing. It was set perfect. lol

I actually doubled checked this the other day but no issues. All my wires are brand new. Along with new ignition and charging system.

Thanks..I had already liked multiple reply’s from this thread. I had already done a “full service”. I rebuilt the entire engine to include valve settings. They are all to proper specs. Only thing is, I reused the original plugs that came with the engine when I bought it. PO had only had them...

So I swapped plugs and it runs fine now...weird. Sounds like I may need a new set of plugs. Anyway I still have a backfire issue coming back through my pod filters causing them to smoke (i.e. burn). I think I’m going to pick up a new set of plugs and see if that may help fix the issue.

I mean “engine running” when I start it and let it idol, I obviously get compression from the exhaust on both the right and left side but not nearly as much on the right as the left. And it seemed to be back firing (to the point where I could see flames popping inside my right pod filter causing...

I have put them back on the bike but could take them off later if I can’t get this issue fixed. When I rebuilt the carbs I pretty much put them back the way I found them.

I need some expertise in tuning my carbs. Here’s the issue I’m having: my compression is at 150 on both cylinders which is great but when I crank my bike, exhaust from right cylinder vs left cylinder is like night and day. I’m assuming it’s in need of a good tuning. I’ve already torn them down...

I had actually caught that right as I was about to button it all up. I found a new locking washer in my infamous ziplock bag and noticed it as I was taking the old one off.

Alright! So I plundered around and finally found the 5/16 ball which was in a ziplock back where I put it long ago. I removed 1 friction plate and one steel plate and buttoned it all back up. Seems to work great so far. Thanks for the help!!

No. I’m assuming you dimple the rod end to help fit the balls better?

So if I remove one steel plate and one friction plate this is what it looks like. (Edit: I found my old clutch plates hanging on the wall and they counted: 6 friction plates and 5 steel plates) Also I’ve looked into just converting to a long rod setup instead of ordering new balls. From whatI...

Okay, so I’ve figured out an interesting piece of my puzzle. Evidently in an effort to add more weight reduction I decided to replace 2 of my bearings with what looks like steering ball bearings (which are much smaller). :doh: My attention to detail switch must of been off that day. Anyway...

I’m not sure which one I bought. Either way my plan is to open up the side to figure this thing out. Once I’m in, I’ll take measurements and let you know how many plates I have. I wanna say it’s 7 plates though.