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For anyone who's interested, in the current Sideburn Magazine (#49) there's a nice article by Gary Inman talking with Chuck Palmgren about his development of the first XS650 flat track bike to win a National in 1970. It's in the print edition, don't think it's available online. 650Skull posted...

I think you could make it from anything, but Greg's is painted plywood. It's pretty securely wedged and his shell is fairly shallow. It might be convenient if it was aluminum as it could be grounded to the bike and you could include ears on it to attach to the indicator mounts.

Now that I look closer, that's what Greg does at the bottom of his ring, three five-hole connectors jumpered together.

I'm pretty sure they're designed for single wires in each hole, but they make 5-holers. I guess you can just jumper from one to the next if you need a bunch of grounds close to each other.

Yes, they're electrically like the wires are twisted together, but more secure, tidy, and handy. "...solid, stranded and fine-stranded conductors ranging from 0.14 to 6 mm² (24–10 AWG)" from the Wago web page. Wago and others also make connectors that look sort of similar that are one-time...

I believe he epoxied the connectors to the ring. I haven't used Lever-Nuts for bike wiring yet, but I have used them for house wiring and they've been great.

A friend in New Zealand, Greg, is in the middle stages of building an XS650 cafe racer, making dummy brackets and such to see how things will fit. Here's his take on organizing the wiring in his headlight shell. The connectors are Wago 221 Lever-Nuts:

I do love a good JIS screwdriver...

Me, too, also.

5twins said "The new one is very cheap, all plastic." 5twins, if that means that the whole body, threads and all, of the switch is plastic, the body of the switch is not the grounding path, right? I've been bench-testing an old spare and thought that when the plunger was pressed in, it should...

EvenmoreXS, if you're interested, I described a method back in post #5 of this thread that I use where no helper and no back-and-forth between lever pump and bleeder nipple is necessary. It seems a lot simpler to me and I'm surprised more people don't do it... You hook a long clear tube from the...

>When I put in a regular non- CAN-BUS led light it flashes and my >warning light flashes as if there is blown bulb, because I think the resistance is so low Say, tkurt, had you thought about trying an electronic flasher module instead of the stock bimetallic strip kind? You can get them at...

I helped a friend with rebuilding his '81 with stock carbs, pod filters, and aftermarket short megaphone mufflers stock crossover removed) after he'd holed the right piston. No carb adjustments had been done after the filter and exhaust mods, and the bike runs the stock electronic ignition...

>Most inexpensive digital gauges will present issues with erratic tach readings due to electrical interference. The cure is a 2 megohm resistor in the tach signal line as close to the instrument as you can conveniently splice it in. Thanks for this tip, Grizld1; I've been happy with my Vapor...

I've been wondering about this myself, since my '81 got hot and puked oil between cylinder and head. I've measured the flatness of my head with a Starrett straightedge and found a maximum of 0.0015" near the middle. I didn't know what was acceptable but found a number in the Yamaha service...

Like Rusty, I have some parts to order, but not in a big hurry. Do what you need to do, I'll keep checking the blog to see when you're ready. Good luck, there. John

Speaking of underseat wiring, there's a really nice example on the Mule Moss Landing Assault Vehicle street tracker. Check out the pictures about halfway down this page: http://www.caferacerxxx.com/blog/2012/11/19/the-moss-landing-assault-vehicle-by-mule-motorcycles.html Posted via Mobile

I have a couple of '81 motors apart on the bench, and wondered about whether the rear guide/tensioner pivot arm needed to be replaced. (Sorry for the mediocre focus in the photo.) The wear material appears to be still bonded on both, not cracked or missing chunks. The one on the left had a front...