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My vacuum petcocks lea leaked when I got mine, so I switched over to manual to make sure that didn’t happen again. always shut off your petcock when you park

I got spark. I could see it with my naked eye in the light. Now I just need to button everything up and address a few other things to make sure I Don't fry the stator again.

Here's some advice. If you're going to run LED's, DO NOT GET A PMA. These guys know what they're talking about when it comes to the charging system. I do have a PMA/CDI system and learned the hard way about using LEDs. My stator fries and I had to switch out my fancy LED turn signal headlight...

Received my new stator and I went over the wires and reinforced them all with heat shrink just in case. But I did notice the ignition coil wiring is in the top left instead of bottom right, but I can't imagine that would make any difference. (No I cannot rotate it as the 3 holes are not 60°...

I heard back from Hugh and am sending mine out tomorrow. I took the stator directly off the backing plate though to cut weight on shipping. I just received my 100/80w light bulb today, and I think that should help like it did with yours. In the mean time I'm going to establish a better ground...

How long did it take to get the stator?

Simply straddle the bike, have your left foot firmly planted and squeeze the front brake lever while kicking. I usually have my bike slightly leaned to the left, very slight though.

I'm working with Hugh to get it sorted out, I am looking to maybe drill holes in my cover near the stator for air flow, as well as add a computer fan to blow directly onto the regulator. I also am looking to add variety of grounds to the regulator, and maybe add more lights to offset the wattage

So I took apart the bike and pulled the rotor to find that the stator got a bit hot. It melted the zip ties that were on it and measured out of spec for resistance. I was told this was probably the result of a bad ground on the R/R. I think I may run an extra ground wire to the R/R. The PMA...

I live in southern Maine and rick's motorsport electrics is right over in NH, so maybe he could fix it. But I've contacted the OEM where I bought the kit from and will hopefully hear back soon.

The battery was toast because I had left the key on for over a month, and so bought a new agm battery yesterday. That's all hooked up, fine and dandy. The question is, can I save my stator? Is it cooked, do I need a new one?

Not sure what else to do at this point. Last year I re did the wiring, switched to a CDI PMA setup, led lighting, etc. Found out my lighting wasn't drawing enough power when the Munit warned me it was getting too much juice. So I switched the headlight back, that seemed to solve that. Then one...

Too late to tell. This happened last year and I just set it in the garage to deal with later.. It's now later...

I noticed that the zip ties are all melted and the white cloth is now brown with brown juice on the stator.

The weird thing is that it had been running fine before that.

The only difference is my orange wire has a kill switch in the line, and the red/white wire runs to the M-Unit, but everything else is the same.

The battery is an AGM, and I'm running an HHB PMA/CDI. It's a single coil with dual outputs. The m-unit only operates the Relay that carries the current from the CDI to the coil.

Well, not much has changed since my last post. I've been busy getting my KLR650 on the road, so now that's finally done, I'm going to focus on the XS and get that running again. After some research, I think I may pull off the LH rotor cover and ensure the gap is correct for the pickup and timing...