Hello everyone. New to the site but have been getting some great info from it for my ‘76 xs650 I recently acquired. Can anyone tell me what tool I need (or need to make) to remove the damper rod from ‘76 34mm forks. They appear to have a bolt head on the top of the rod with only two flat sides. I can feel a 10mm socket just start to slip down over this head but not enough to engage. I suspect they are this type from what little I can see down the fork tube. Thank you.
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‘76 forks rebuild question
- Thread starter Woodchuck
- Start date
Welcome to the forum!!
You need to modify a 17mm socket. Fwiw... it's described in the Tech section.
https://www.xs650.com/threads/how-to-rebuild-xs650-forks-install-lowering-kit.5537/
You need to modify a 17mm socket. Fwiw... it's described in the Tech section.
https://www.xs650.com/threads/how-to-rebuild-xs650-forks-install-lowering-kit.5537/
That's only for the '77 damper rod. Yours would be smaller. I've heard it's possible to make a tool out of some small diameter pipe with the end squeezed oval. Once you have one out, you could make a better, proper tool something like Jim shows in his pics.
The 34mm tubes have the flats at 12mm. You could make a special socket for it like Jim shows. Except at 12mm.
Hard to see in the pic but there is a rod in the middle of it. I have used a long flat screwdriver on one side of rod to hold it while turning out the bolt after breaking the bolt loose.
What I normally do is drain the fork oil and with the fork caps still on is use my air impact and remove the lower bolt. The spring pressure of the for spring will keep the rod from turning. It will not explode apart as the the spring only has a 1/2 inch or so of preload and the bolt is longer than the preload length.
Hard to see in the pic but there is a rod in the middle of it. I have used a long flat screwdriver on one side of rod to hold it while turning out the bolt after breaking the bolt loose.
What I normally do is drain the fork oil and with the fork caps still on is use my air impact and remove the lower bolt. The spring pressure of the for spring will keep the rod from turning. It will not explode apart as the the spring only has a 1/2 inch or so of preload and the bolt is longer than the preload length.
JJames
XS650 Addict
This is what the Haynes manual shows for a flattened pipe.
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I cut out this 10mm socket and can feel it drop fully onto the fitting. Pretty wimpy at 1/4” drive I but couldn’t find a six point 3/8” at the store today and didn’t want to sacrifice the one from my set. At least I now know what fits! I’ll try GLJ’s method with fork spring and cap installed and the air gun to remove the Allen bolt. Seems like this socket might be strong enough to reassemble the forks? If the air gun doesn’t work I’ll find a 3/8”to mod or try the ovaled pipe. BTW, before I go to the air gun, my battery powered rattle gun didn’t budge the Allen bolt. Would some heat at that end of the fork leg help? I have also tried a good tap on the bolt with a punch. An old timer I built bridges with long ago once told me that if a nut or bolt won’t break loose try tightening it, then try to loosen. I have used that method on steel but would be afraid to try it with aluminum. Just kind of interesting. Thanks all. Stay tuned…
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yes turn fork upside down to get oil away from bottom apply heat Electric heat gun right up to turning clear coat yellow if less won't do.... and alternate loosy tighty. an impact gun REALLY helps here a long hex socket is the cats PJs, any combos rob power. A hand impact with hammer blows straight down, left AND right should start it. Some years Yamaha really slathered thread lock there.
I have used the flattened tube method now and then over the years .Not on the damper if i recall right
I have a different on my 80 if i recall right used 2 nuts on an all thread tightened together. The lower fits in the rod.
The pipe I flatten it in a vice .push it down feeling the play When it is difficult to see ... flattens it some more until the play is good and then turn it. Sometimes it don't work but overall good results
That 2 sided grip is not a good design if it sits hard as on Bicycles pedals
I have a different on my 80 if i recall right used 2 nuts on an all thread tightened together. The lower fits in the rod.
The pipe I flatten it in a vice .push it down feeling the play When it is difficult to see ... flattens it some more until the play is good and then turn it. Sometimes it don't work but overall good results
That 2 sided grip is not a good design if it sits hard as on Bicycles pedals
Hello everyone,
Finally got back to this problem and success at long last! I went through two versions of the flattened pipe tool each of which failed when the fitting spread the pipe end back out under tension and spun. I even used a smaller diameter pipe with a reinforcing ring of larger diameter pipe welded around the business end. No go. That old thread locker is no joke. Today I welded two sockets face to face, slotted and ground the 3/8th side to fit and stuck my propane torch up in the leg bottom to heat the Allen bolt. A little rap on it with a punch and voila. I’m elated! I was about ready to give up and buy a different set of forks off eBay. Thanks to all for the suggestion.
Relating to the last picture of my spring preload spacers, if I wanted to lower the forks say 1”, could I cut an inch off these, slide those 1” pieces onto the damper rods and return the two inch pieces to their normal position?
Finally got back to this problem and success at long last! I went through two versions of the flattened pipe tool each of which failed when the fitting spread the pipe end back out under tension and spun. I even used a smaller diameter pipe with a reinforcing ring of larger diameter pipe welded around the business end. No go. That old thread locker is no joke. Today I welded two sockets face to face, slotted and ground the 3/8th side to fit and stuck my propane torch up in the leg bottom to heat the Allen bolt. A little rap on it with a punch and voila. I’m elated! I was about ready to give up and buy a different set of forks off eBay. Thanks to all for the suggestion.
Relating to the last picture of my spring preload spacers, if I wanted to lower the forks say 1”, could I cut an inch off these, slide those 1” pieces onto the damper rods and return the two inch pieces to their normal position?
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@Woodchuck can you post the dimensions of the business end of the socket you made? I’m working on the exact same project right now and before I hack up a goid socket I’d like to be sure of the dims. I guess I need to confirm the OD of the socket and the width of the slot. I believe it’s 12mm? Thx.
Not positive, Vic, but I think all the dimensions are in here...
https://www.xs650.com/threads/how-to-rebuild-xs650-forks-install-lowering-kit.5537/
Hello. I inserted a 3/8 drive 9mm socket into a 3/8 drive 14mm socket and welded them together face to face so to speak. The “business end” is the end of the 14mm socket that fit onto the 3/8 ratchet drive.
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Thx. Much appreciated.
Thanks Jim. I read that and tried making the tool but I don’t believe the head of tge damper is the same as the one in the referenced post. It seems to look like the one @Woodchuck had.
Two sockets have died already. Hopefully the third will work out.
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When I pulled the damper out, all the bits fell on the ground. Can someone confirm these are in the correct order and pointing the right way? Thx.
I can't say for sure, but I can tell you there's no need to take all that stuff out. The damper rod can be removed through the top of the tube.
