Yep that was it! I should really try to do things myself before I post in hereSounds like the throttle cable is messed up, hanging up somewhere.

Yep that was it! I should really try to do things myself before I post in hereSounds like the throttle cable is messed up, hanging up somewhere.
I should really try to do things myself before I post in here.
Oh will have plenty more to come. Planning to replace my push rod so stay tuned for that lolPosting our Duh-oh's is part of the fun!
Going to the Slimy crud Sunday?Oh will have plenty more to come. Planning to replace my push rod so stay tuned for that lol
Also see you're in Baraboo, I'm just south in Janesville
Sadly noGoing to the Slimy crud Sunday?
Will do, I’ll put the front fender back on this week. Another question for ya, I am planning to retorque head bolts as per @gggGary and your recommendations. Read the other post but am a little mechanically challenged lol. When I do it, am I okay to remove all the bolts, and lube them at one time, and the follow the torque diagram? Or should I remove one at a time, lube, torque and then move on to the next one and repeat the process? ThanksLooking good, but you really need something on the forks, either a fender or fork brace of some sort. That single disc really puts a lot of twisting force on the forks when you brake.
Whatever you do, you must not remove all the head bolts. If you do that, 99% certain you will soon be pulling the engine out to fit new base and head gaskets.Will do, I’ll put the front fender back on this week. Another question for ya, I am planning to retorque head bolts as per @gggGary and your recommendations. Read the other post but am a little mechanically challenged lol. When I do it, am I okay to remove all the bolts, and lube them at one time, and the follow the torque diagram? Or should I remove one at a time, lube, torque and then move on to the next one and repeat the process? Thanks
Ps Also will do 1/2 torque, 3/4 torque, and then full
torque pass. This way I am imagining taking all the bolts off and then doing it but just want to make sure. will be very careful with that 6mm to not over torque it as well.
Oh wow I had it all wrong good to know thanks!Whatever you do, you must not remove all the head bolts. If you do that, 99% certain you will soon be pulling the engine out to fit new base and head gaskets.
This.remove one at a time, lube, torque and then move on to the next one and repeat the process
The torque spec is for clean, dry threads. Lubrication will increase the applied torque quite a bit.and lube them
I think I saw 30-35 ft lb. Does that sound correct for lubed threads?The torque spec is for clean, dry threads. Lubrication will increase the applied torque quite a bit.
I don’t have that info available at the moment.I think I saw 30-35 ft lb. Does that sound correct for lubed threads?
That’s a heck of a thing to leave out of the service manual!The newer manuals don't mention it but the '75 and older ones specifically do, at least for the 8 big studs .....
will increase applied LOAD quite a bit with SAME torqueThe torque spec is for clean, dry threads. Lubrication will increase the applied torque quite a bit.
Thank you. Do you know what size these are and if they are available at somewhere like ACE? Shiny engine ya got there hoping to get to that point next weekI'd also like to mention that many of us change the rubber/metal washers on the outside 4 studs to copper or brass. Those studs flow oil so need a sealing washer of some sort. The rubber washers do seal but are too soft to hold the nuts tight. They constantly loosen up and head gaskets leaks are often the result. The copper or brass replacements are hard enough to hold the nuts tight but soft enough to seal .....
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