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‘77 XS650 get it running
- Thread starter Woodrow31
- Start date
All n all that sounds and idles quite nice.
What is that jingling sound? Keys on handlebars?
Something , or the engine ?
What is that jingling sound? Keys on handlebars?
Something , or the engine ?
It’s coming from the top of the motor. I’m not sure what it is. I was hoping someone here could give me suggestions.
The left side definitely sound stronger than the right. Maybe rebalance the carbs?
Adjusted the cam chain recently?
Then set the valves again.
Any change?
Then set the valves again.
Any change?
Look under the mechanical advancer cover for anything loose in there ?
Get a long screw driver and use it as a stethoscope? That’s fun and actually works sometimes
Get a long screw driver and use it as a stethoscope? That’s fun and actually works sometimes
Recheck you valve clearances "cold". These motors do clatter a bit. See some FB video posts of engines running.
I’ve only worked on the gas tank, carbs, air boxes, brakes and the points/timing.
I have not done anything with the valves or the cam chain.
For knowing nothing about bikes I am proud of what I have accomplished. However it feels like it’s becoming a one thing after another type deal now lol.
I guess it’s time to learn more stuff.
I have not done anything with the valves or the cam chain.
For knowing nothing about bikes I am proud of what I have accomplished. However it feels like it’s becoming a one thing after another type deal now lol.
I guess it’s time to learn more stuff.
And rightly so. You're doin' great, keep going!
A long departed friend explained it this way... A PHd "knows almost everthing about almost nothing"... You are on your way, Dr Woodrow...
Also I have a gas leak out of the left side of the carb now. Leaking back into the air box and dripping out of the air box.
From what I have read this leads me to believe I have a sticky float.
So after work tonight I’ll be giving the float bowls a few taps to see if that remedies the issue.
From what I have read this leads me to believe I have a sticky float.
So after work tonight I’ll be giving the float bowls a few taps to see if that remedies the issue.
Hey, so, I guess another question.
Do you guys have any recommendations on refurbing a gas tank?
The inside was very rusty when I got it. I cleaned it out the best I could. The outside is also fairly rusty and has a dent in the lower area of the top.
Sorry if that terminology is incorrect.
You can see what I’m talking about in the video I just shared.
I’m kind of torn about cleaning all of the old paint and everything off of it and starting fresh, as I like the thought of it being the original paint.
But also, it looks bad?
Do people typically clean the old paint off and just repaint and put new decals on?
Do you guys have any recommendations on refurbing a gas tank?
The inside was very rusty when I got it. I cleaned it out the best I could. The outside is also fairly rusty and has a dent in the lower area of the top.
Sorry if that terminology is incorrect.
You can see what I’m talking about in the video I just shared.
I’m kind of torn about cleaning all of the old paint and everything off of it and starting fresh, as I like the thought of it being the original paint.
But also, it looks bad?
Do people typically clean the old paint off and just repaint and put new decals on?
I'd check the cam chain first because it's very easy to do while the engine sits there idling, and a loose chain can cause topend noise like you have. Remove the acorn cover nut on the adjuster. Fold up a paper towel and lay it on the motor under the adjuster as a few drops of oil may come out as the engine sits there idling. There is a little pin in the center of the adjusting bolt and if properly set, it should move in and out a little bit, maybe a MM or so. Much more than that and the chain is too loose, no movement at all means the chain is too tight. So, if you have movement, start tightening the adjuster. Tighten it until the movement stops or almost stops (too tight) then loosen it back up until you get that small amount of in and out movement. If it was too loose, the topend noise should go away as you tighten the adjuster.
This is something that you should check about every 1000 miles or so. I check mine at every oil change since they should be done about every 1000 -1500 miles. It's the perfect time to check the chain. It's best adjusted on a hot motor so having the motor warmed up for the oil change works out perfectly. I check the chain then change the oil.
This is something that you should check about every 1000 miles or so. I check mine at every oil change since they should be done about every 1000 -1500 miles. It's the perfect time to check the chain. It's best adjusted on a hot motor so having the motor warmed up for the oil change works out perfectly. I check the chain then change the oil.
What will make you happy? Original patina has a charm. Re
Spray to factory is the choice of some here. I favor a retro feel and others l8ke total custom. Your bike(budget), your choice.
There are several threads on here about refurbing your tank. Some use metal rescue others just grocery store white vinegar. As long as the tank doesn’t leak it can generally be saved. I prefer the vinegar method due to its cheap and easy plus when done it’s easy to dispose of.
My bike developed that racket after I revived it. I used a long screwdriver against my ear. I found the left intake valve loose. I can’t imagine how that happened but now quiet.
I like phosphoric acid to derust the tank. Fill most of the way with water. Add 2 cups acid. Top up with water. It will work overnight. Baking soda to neutralize. Dry with alcohol or solvent of your choice.
Well. I got home last night. Started the bike. Tapped on the floats. Got the gas to stop leaking. So that’s a win.
Popped the points cover off. The sound got louder when I did that. So ok, it’s coming from in there.
Got to looking at it and it looked like the left side points mechanism was touching the rotating shaft, but the right side wasn’t? Also the brushes weren’t touching it either. I flipped the brushed around and then they were touching.
Started the bike back up and the sound went away. Not real sure what I did, if anything, to remedy the issue. But it’s gone. For now at least.
I also popped the acorn nut off of the cam chain and tightened down the adjuster nut until the little pin was almost not moving. I noticed a new noise after doing that. Can’t remember exactly what it sounded like now, but I backed the adjuster but back out about a half turn and the noise went away. So I guess that’s good now too?
I don’t know guys. I’m just winging it here.
Do these bikes have a tendency to overheat and shut themselves off?
The bike will run beautifully for about 20ish minutes and then abruptly shut off. Then it will just roll over continuously but not fire. Let it cool off for a half hour or so and it will fire again. Run for a few minutes and shut off. Not fire again.
I do have a fan in front of the bike, between the front tire and the front of the motor, blowing onto the motor.
I was thinking it was flooding it’s self somehow but a guy I work with who is an avid dirt bike and three wheeler guy, said he thinks it’s overheating because it’s suppose to be air cooled and it’s just sitting there getting hot.
Popped the points cover off. The sound got louder when I did that. So ok, it’s coming from in there.
Got to looking at it and it looked like the left side points mechanism was touching the rotating shaft, but the right side wasn’t? Also the brushes weren’t touching it either. I flipped the brushed around and then they were touching.
Started the bike back up and the sound went away. Not real sure what I did, if anything, to remedy the issue. But it’s gone. For now at least.
I also popped the acorn nut off of the cam chain and tightened down the adjuster nut until the little pin was almost not moving. I noticed a new noise after doing that. Can’t remember exactly what it sounded like now, but I backed the adjuster but back out about a half turn and the noise went away. So I guess that’s good now too?
I don’t know guys. I’m just winging it here.
Do these bikes have a tendency to overheat and shut themselves off?
The bike will run beautifully for about 20ish minutes and then abruptly shut off. Then it will just roll over continuously but not fire. Let it cool off for a half hour or so and it will fire again. Run for a few minutes and shut off. Not fire again.
I do have a fan in front of the bike, between the front tire and the front of the motor, blowing onto the motor.
I was thinking it was flooding it’s self somehow but a guy I work with who is an avid dirt bike and three wheeler guy, said he thinks it’s overheating because it’s suppose to be air cooled and it’s just sitting there getting hot.
You could have a bad coil. When they go bad, they often quit working once hot, work fine again once they cool down some.
For the cam chain adjuster, you want a little in-out movement on the pin, maybe a MM or so. Little to no movement means it's adjusted too tight. You've done the adjustment the correct way - tightening until the movement stops then loosening it back up until it moves again. That's my preferred method and is virtually foolproof. It also give you the perfect adjustment, a little looser than "too tight" but not too loose.
For the cam chain adjuster, you want a little in-out movement on the pin, maybe a MM or so. Little to no movement means it's adjusted too tight. You've done the adjustment the correct way - tightening until the movement stops then loosening it back up until it moves again. That's my preferred method and is virtually foolproof. It also give you the perfect adjustment, a little looser than "too tight" but not too loose.
Make sure your fuel tank is venting. If it’s quitting in the garage, open the cap and try it. Otherwise, yes, what he said.
How do I do that?
