That's the exact same needle I bought in May, 2021, for $3.40. Now, it's $12.13.Reading through your thread found this today.
Gonna get one anyway, it's a great idea.
View attachment 328583
My how times have changed.
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1973 Super Rustbucket Resurrection
- Thread starter DogBunny
- Start date
Your 3 yr old link still works
brought me right to it.
The Sublime RustBucket started exhibiting fuel delivery problem symptoms. Similar to running out of gas, or having a non-venting gas cap, only different. It only occurred at freeway speeds, I.E. sustained high RPMs.
I checked the gas cap venting, and I disassembled the petcock hoping to find it plugged, but both were good.
So, I removed and went through the carbs. Was hoping to find an obstruction in the fuel cross-over tube, or somewhere else in the fuel delivery passages, maybe a partly plugged needle valve. I found nothing, and everything else inside the carbs checked out good.
It finally dawned on me to check the fuel filter. It was the culprit. I could have fixed this problem in 5 minutes, instead of the hours I spent, if I had checked here first.
I've never had a fuel filter plug up before. It took 3 years of daily use for this one to go bad. As you can imagine, the Superb RustBucket has a less than pristine fuel tank.
BTW, as with every XS650 I've ever worked on, I only run a single petcock on the Superior RustBucket. A second petcock is just one more thing to go wrong. This is how I how I run my lines and cap off the unused fuel nipple.
I cleaned, assembled, and installed two sets of forks before I realized my lower steering clamp was slightly bent…so yeah I’ve spent hours chasing a misdiagnosis.
Glad you figured it out in the end! Also thanks for the fork tubes and chromed axle
Like the idea with the carbs. I’ve always felt that additional tubing and petcocks etc is a little clunky.
Glad you figured it out in the end! Also thanks for the fork tubes and chromed axle
Like the idea with the carbs. I’ve always felt that additional tubing and petcocks etc is a little clunky.
Thanks for the purchase! If you, or anyone else, ever wants to buy something I've put on eBay, PM me here, and I'll give you a reduced price.thanks for the fork tubes and chromed axle
My listings are the ones with the color correction card in the pictures.
You wouldn’t believe how many parts I bought off of your EBay site, for my XS2, before I realized who owned it!
Interesting, and thanks! I had no idea you'd ever bought anything from me.You wouldn’t believe how many parts I bought off of your EBay site, for my XS2, before I realized who owned it!
I finally implemented the belt-as-seat-strap idea that I got from a post made by nj1639.
The existing seat strap on the Splendid RustBucket was in good condition, and I wanted to use it on a 1973 seat I restored, hence the need for this braided leather belt strap.
The tongue end of the belt is braided back on itself (hard to see, but it's there on the top belt end in the pic), so all I had to do to it was fold it over and secure it. The other end of the belt was stabilized using JB Weld that I dyed black, and then ground smooth after curing.
The fastener is a Binding Screw (AKA a Chicago Screw in a recent thread).
The red arrow points to a hidden metal bolster inside the folded-over strap. I had to enlarge the screw hole in it just a tad to accept the Binding Screw.
https://www.mcmaster.com/99637A311/
This is the Binding Screw that I used. I came up with the Binding Screw to replace the BIG rivet idea two years ago, which Is when I bought them, for $2.66 each. They are now $4.02 each.
The belt was $5.75 from AliExpress. Be sure to get one that is 3.5cm wide. The first belt I bought was too wide to fit in the mounting bracket's slot.
Comparison. Not a bad substitute for that impossible-to-find original rivet. (I used a rusty washer under the Binding screw to match the Sensational RustBucket's patina.) Also, the thickness of the Binding Screw I used was a little skimpy, so I had to use very thin washers. You could always buy longer Binding Screws and trim them to fit.
My only regret, is that I should have bought a Brown belt. It would have looked funkier, and would have picked up the gold stripe on the tank.
I've got about 500 miles on this strap, and it looks just like it did when I put it on.
*In my best Jon Stewart voice* Go on.....
*In my best Jon Stewart voice* Go on.....
https://www.reynoldsam.com/product/strong-color-tints/
This is what I used to dye the high-temp resin that I was using back when I was making my ThermoDipSticks.
Works equally well with JB Weld. It's very strong -- I was using it at a ratio of probably about 0.01%, so I still have most of it left over.
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Bookmarked, thanks.
If you ever decide to get back into the ThermDipSticks I'd definitely be interested.
That pigment is pretty expensive.
https://shapersupply.com/collection...Y8aHRk527br_CzOQWIBxLBrouq0P3pRXJgXDU1p-M3PaK
If you were to call they probably have more colors available too.
Thanks for the interest, but a hard NO on ever making them again.If you ever decide to get back into the ThermDipSticks I'd definitely be interested.
You are right, but there's a question of how much you need of each, suitability and quality. Not much info. Might be fine.
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...also bookmarked. Thanks.
Oops!
They come in 2oz jars. A 2oz jar of pigment will make a gallon of resin an absolute solid color. They also make transparent tints.
It’s the highest quality resin pigment you can buy.
I have jars that are 4+ years old and still perfectly good to use.
All color work was done with these tints. The sign was built completely with pigmented resin (no paint
Wow! Impressive work! 
Did you make those boards? Very nice!
I did the math, and 2oz in a gallon is a 1.5625% ratio.
The SO-Strong is used at a 0.01 to 3% ratio, so about the same.
When I was making the ThermoDipSticks, I mixed the resin by weight, enough to cast 5 at a time, I.E. a very small amount. The colorant was added by counting the drops from the bottle -- it has an eye-dropper type aperture on it. I think I was using 8 drops.
