1976 XS650C Café Racer Build

. . . local engineering outfit, a reputable bunch, approximately six weeks ago. I had a detailed chat with the owner and we agreed the following . . .
IMHO you need to avoid being fobbed off, or feeling you've been fobbed off. I wonder is you can arrange to go and see the owner and discuss with him where things are at now? Perhaps you can agree a plan of action with him? Maybe before you take the block away, you buy 2nd oversize pistons & rings, take them to the engineer to be measured and they bore to suit or at lease check the fit, hone as required?
 
Morning, All, from an exceedingly wet, cold and windy NE Fife. I've made some good progress with my build so I'm documenting it here for those interested. These past couple of months have been spent working on the engine rebuild and doing a few bitty jobs here and there. It has been a good distraction in the late evenings when the baby has decided to concede defeat for the day and go to sleep (for a short while at least).

Firstly, I measured up and ordered a custom single braided brake line to the front caliper from Hel Performance. I didn't like the idea of the junction at the triple tree; as far as i could tell it's just impedence to efficiency. The line looks well so that's the front brake set up complete. From Hel I also received a banjo bolt incorporating an hydraulic switch at the master cylinder which will activate the front brake light.

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Next was on to rebuilding the rocker box cover. Fortunately the rocker arms and the camshaft lobes were in good condition so this was straightforward. The rocker arm shafts were refitted by screwing an M6 bolt into the threaded end before lightly tapping them home with a rubber mallet. I read previously that it is very important to fit these shafts back in with the threaded hole 'outboard' (they will go in either way), otherwise getting them back out again in future will be cause of more than a small headache and a few bad words. At disassembly, I'd bagged and tagged each rocker arm and its associated parts with intake R, exhaust L etc.

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Next I pulled the trigger on a Pipes n' Stuff PMA CDI kit. Ants who runs this one-man-band outfit is absolutely top notch. He is absolutely passionate about XS650s and is almost unbelievably helpful on the phone. He's very knowledgeable and is always on hand to provide technical support by text or call. His products also have an excellent reputation for how well they work and how precisely they're made. Another big recommendation from me. The only issue I did have with him was trying to understand him at times as he speaks very quickly and in a very strong welsh accent! A lovely bloke.

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I wrote previously about the issue with the engineering outfit and my block. It turned into a bit of a saga, but they eventually agreed to take the new piston kit and do a full assessment and measurements. I went ahead and ordered my new piston kit from Cruizinimage (2nd oversize). The communication was excellent and they arrived surprisingly quickly from Japan without any custom charge. All great, except he'd sent me the wrong pistons...! Some correspondence later, packaging the wrong ones up, and returning them to Japan (at a cost of 35 quid! (reimbursed)), the correct ones arrived within a week. I must say, his communication was top notch and although there was a cock up with the initial order it was an honest mistake that he rectified very quickly. A big thumbs up from a customer service point of view from me. If you ever read this, Mitsuo, cheers!

I got my block back from the engineering shop earlier this week (12 weeks after handing it in). All is well.

I spent the last two evenings rebuilding the top end. It went something like this:

The rings were fitted to the pistons. The Cruizininage kits come with no instructions whatsoever, so if anyone ever finds themselves wondering, the ring with the polished edge goes in the first groove (nearest the piston crown), the all black ring goes in the second groove, and obviously the expander and upper/lower rail rings snuggle together in the bottom groove. I fitted them very carefully by hand and then into the jugs with my dad's old ring compressor. The jugs were cleaned very thoroughly with hot, soapy water and brake cleaner until a white rag came out clean. They were then lubricated thoroughly with oil before the pistons were fitted. I placed the base gasket with a very sparing layer of sealant on both sides (the Haynes manual says not to use any sealant on the base gasket but extended reading told me otherwise). The block was then seated with very little persuasion with my rubber mallet. It's not easy fitting the block single handedly while ensuring the chain doesn't go south, the rod small ends are lined up with the gudgeon pins, and you don't inadvertently amputate a digit or two, but it's not impossible. The new pins and small ends were lubricated generously before new pin circlips were installed.

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On advice from a few of the very knowledgable chaps on the forum, I sprayed the head gasket with Permatex copper spray-a-gasket to get the sealing job done and to (allegedly) assist with heat transfer. Then, the freshly rebuilt head was slid down over the studs and lightly tapped home with a mallet.

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I have a new 'endless' DID chain. Getting it on to the cam sprocket was a bit of a job bit as many of you know it is possible when the camshaft bearings are slid off allowing for the shaft to 'drop' creating more space to work with. Even with this, it was a bit of a fight but we got there. That was until I realised I'd fitted the camshaft back-to-front. Idiot. Lots of swearing etc. So, back off it came (getting the chain off the sprocket was a LOT more difficult than getting it on). Don't be like me - make sure you've fitted the shaft in the correct orientation first time round. As most of you are well aware, to set timing you ensure the crank is at TDC and that the cut out notch in the LHS face of the cam sprocket is at 12 o'clock. The punched dimple on the RHS face (in my case - some camshafts have the notch and dimple on the same side) should be lying parallel with the orientation of head gasket.

I ensured the chain was running centrally in the tunnel, the shaft bearings were lined up against the inner edge of the head mating surface, lubricated the chain, and applied build up grease liberally to the cam lobes.

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From here, it was simple reassembly. The tappets were backed right off after loosening their lock nuts to allow the rocker cover to sit easily, unimpeded. TB sealer was used on both aspects of the mating surfaces before the head nuts and bolts were torqued in sequence. I upgraded to a Typpe-D camchain tensioner. The engine rebuild is, for now at least, complete.

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I'm pleased with how this has gone. It's been a learning curve and I've made more than a couple of mistakes along the way but it's been fascinating and I've learned an awful lot. I've tried to do everything as precisely and as carefully as possible so i hope it's a good'un. What I plan on not doing is adding up how much this has all cost...

Cheers!
 
Morning, All, from an exceedingly wet, cold and windy NE Fife. I've made some good progress with my build so I'm documenting it here for those interested. These past couple of months have been spent working on the engine rebuild and doing a few bitty jobs here and there. It has been a good distraction in the late evenings when the baby has decided to concede defeat for the day and go to sleep (for a short while at least).

Firstly, I measured up and ordered a custom single braided brake line to the front caliper from Hel Performance. I didn't like the idea of the junction at the triple tree; as far as i could tell it's just impedence to efficiency. The line looks well so that's the front brake set up complete. From Hel I also received a banjo bolt incorporating an hydraulic switch at the master cylinder which will activate the front brake light.

View attachment 337402

Next was on to rebuilding the rocker box cover. Fortunately the rocker arms and the camshaft lobes were in good condition so this was straightforward. The rocker arm shafts were refitted by screwing an M6 bolt into the threaded end before lightly tapping them home with a rubber mallet. I read previously that it is very important to fit these shafts back in with the threaded hole 'outboard' (they will go in either way), otherwise getting them back out again in future will be cause of more than a small headache and a few bad words. At disassembly, I'd bagged and tagged each rocker arm and its associated parts with intake R, exhaust L etc.

View attachment 337404

View attachment 337405

Next I pulled the trigger on a Pipes n' Stuff PMA CDI kit. Ants who runs this one-man-band outfit is absolutely top notch. He is absolutely passionate about XS650s and is almost unbelievably helpful on the phone. He's very knowledgeable and is always on hand to provide technical support by text or call. His products also have an excellent reputation for how well they work and how precisely they're made. Another big recommendation from me. The only issue I did have with him was trying to understand him at times as he speaks very quickly and in a very strong welsh accent! A lovely bloke.

View attachment 337406

View attachment 337407

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I wrote previously about the issue with the engineering outfit and my block. It turned into a bit of a saga, but they eventually agreed to take the new piston kit and do a full assessment and measurements. I went ahead and ordered my new piston kit from Cruizinimage (2nd oversize). The communication was excellent and they arrived surprisingly quickly from Japan without any custom charge. All great, except he'd sent me the wrong pistons...! Some correspondence later, packaging the wrong ones up, and returning them to Japan (at a cost of 35 quid! (reimbursed)), the correct ones arrived within a week. I must say, his communication was top notch and although there was a cock up with the initial order it was an honest mistake that he rectified very quickly. A big thumbs up from a customer service point of view from me. If you ever read this, Mitsuo, cheers!

I got my block back from the engineering shop earlier this week (12 weeks after handing it in). All is well.

I spent the last two evenings rebuilding the top end. It went something like this:

The rings were fitted to the pistons. The Cruizininage kits come with no instructions whatsoever, so if anyone ever finds themselves wondering, the ring with the polished edge goes in the first groove (nearest the piston crown), the all black ring goes in the second groove, and obviously the expander and upper/lower rail rings snuggle together in the bottom groove. I fitted them very carefully by hand and then into the jugs with my dad's old ring compressor. The jugs were cleaned very thoroughly with hot, soapy water and brake cleaner until a white rag came out clean. They were then lubricated thoroughly with oil before the pistons were fitted. I placed the base gasket with a very sparing layer of sealant on both sides (the Haynes manual says not to use any sealant on the base gasket but extended reading told me otherwise). The block was then seated with very little persuasion with my rubber mallet. It's not easy fitting the block single handedly while ensuring the chain doesn't go south, the rod small ends are lined up with the gudgeon pins, and you don't inadvertently amputate a digit or two, but it's not impossible. The new pins and small ends were lubricated generously before new pin circlips were installed.

View attachment 337410

On advice from a few of the very knowledgable chaps on the forum, I sprayed the head gasket with Permatex copper spray-a-gasket to get the sealing job done and to (allegedly) assist with heat transfer. Then, the freshly rebuilt head was slid down over the studs and lightly tapped home with a mallet.

View attachment 337411

View attachment 337412

I have a new 'endless' DID chain. Getting it on to the cam sprocket was a bit of a job bit as many of you know it is possible when the camshaft bearings are slid off allowing for the shaft to 'drop' creating more space to work with. Even with this, it was a bit of a fight but we got there. That was until I realised I'd fitted the camshaft back-to-front. Idiot. Lots of swearing etc. So, back off it came (getting the chain off the sprocket was a LOT more difficult than getting it on). Don't be like me - make sure you've fitted the shaft in the correct orientation first time round. As most of you are well aware, to set timing you ensure the crank is at TDC and that the cut out notch in the LHS face of the cam sprocket is at 12 o'clock. The punched dimple on the RHS face (in my case - some camshafts have the notch and dimple on the same side) should be lying parallel with the orientation of head gasket.

I ensured the chain was running centrally in the tunnel, the shaft bearings were lined up against the inner edge of the head mating surface, lubricated the chain, and applied build up grease liberally to the cam lobes.

View attachment 337413

From here, it was simple reassembly. The tappets were backed right off after loosening their lock nuts to allow the rocker cover to sit easily, unimpeded. TB sealer was used on both aspects of the mating surfaces before the head nuts and bolts were torqued in sequence. I upgraded to a Typpe-D camchain tensioner. The engine rebuild is, for now at least, complete.

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I'm pleased with how this has gone. It's been a learning curve and I've made more than a couple of mistakes along the way but it's been fascinating and I've learned an awful lot. I've tried to do everything as precisely and as carefully as possible so i hope it's a good'un. What I plan on not doing is adding up how much this has all cost...

Cheers!
Nice write up and good clear images. A job well done I'd say.
 
Well, for the most part, you did good, lol. But there are a couple possible issues I'll mention. First, it's best to mount the front guide in the cylinder while it's still off the motor. That way you can center it in the tunnel exactly by measuring it at both the top and the bottom. Once the cylinder is in place, you can only measure and center the top of the guide, and the bottom could be off. That would make the guide crooked or "cocked", not perfectly vertical as it should be. But honestly, judging by the number of old guides I've run across that were mounted crooked (top and bottom opposite side edges worn), I don't think the factory centered them, they just slapped them in, lol. But, we can do better.

Second, I don't think you've installed the cam bearings far enough in. You want to push them in as far as they'll go on each side. Granted, this looks wrong because the inner bearing will hang off the bore in the case a little bit, but it's how they have to be. If not pushed in all the way, the cam can slide side to side .....

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Nice work, @mrob24! I like the matte silver finish on the engine's side covers. What is the finish on the covers; is that vapor-blast, bead-blast or paint? If paint, what paint?
Hey, atom. I'm sorry for my hideously delayed response to your question. The side covers (along with the whole top end) have been vapour blasted. I sprayed the Yamaha logos black with high temp rattle cans after they were blasted.
 
Well, for the most part, you did good, lol. But there are a couple possible issues I'll mention. First, it's best to mount the front guide in the cylinder while it's still off the motor. That way you can center it in the tunnel exactly by measuring it at both the top and the bottom. Once the cylinder is in place, you can only measure and center the top of the guide, and the bottom could be off. That would make the guide crooked or "cocked", not perfectly vertical as it should be. But honestly, judging by the number of old guides I've run across that were mounted crooked (top and bottom opposite side edges worn), I don't think the factory centered them, they just slapped them in, lol. But, we can do better.

Second, I don't think you've installed the cam bearings far enough in. You want to push them in as far as they'll go on each side. Granted, this looks wrong because the inner bearing will hang off the bore in the case a little bit, but it's how they have to be. If not pushed in all the way, the cam can slide side to side .....

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Thanks, 5twins. Again, I'm sorry for my very delayed response to this useful information. I'll confess that I kicked myself when I read what you wrote about the front chain guide because that is something I'd read before and then forgot to implement when I put the top end back together. I measured the top of the guide on each side with my calipers, so at least the top end is centered... Annoying.

Regarding the positioning of the cam bearings. That was something I hadn't read previously, so thank you for flagging this. I decided this was important information to heed, so I took the rocker cover off and made sure this was done correctly. On inspection, there was clear daylight between the bearings and the outer lobes on each end. I've now rectified this and everything is buttoned back together. It was a pain in the arse as, of course, it involved destroying gaskets, having to meticulously clean gasket material and TB sealant from surfaces, buy new gaskets etc. etc. However, it's done now, and I can rest a little easier at night! Cheers!

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Hey, atom. I'm sorry for my hideously delayed response to your question. The side covers (along with the whole top end) have been vapour blasted. I sprayed the Yamaha logos black with high temp rattle cans after they were blasted.
I'm curious about the stain-resistance of the vapour-blasted finish. A dry bead-blasted finish shows the least bit of dirt or oil, which is then difficult if not impossible to remove. Does the vapour-blasted finish somehow behave differently?
 
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