1977 XS650D Build (Restore/mod)

[Altizzy]

Still... the tapered rollers are a good mod to do regardless of if it fixed the clunk or not. Still time and money well spent. I like to recheck and readjust 'em after the first ride. Most times after they seat good, they'll need readjusting. So it's possible that's still your clunk problem.

I’ll be sure to do that. Thank you!

 

[Altizzy]

^^^^
That's a pretty elaborate way to jack up your bike...
Swingarm bushing are easy too if you have a freezer.

Having the bushings in the freezer for a day definitely helped! One of the bushings didn’t want to come out so I had to keep cutting with a sawzaw blade until it cooperated. Swingarm slop is non existent now. Excellent upgrade.

 

[Altizzy]

Got some goodies in the mail. Replaced throttle cable which made riding so much easier. I feel like it’s now a lot less jerky. I also got a tachometer cap and found a way to mount the speedometer using the factory gauge mount. Having a lot of fun.

 

[Wingedwheel]

Even though the cable is new a few drops of lube should be applied as a general rule.

 

[Altizzy]

I didn’t like seeing all the oil behind the left cover so I replaced the clutch push rod bushing and seal. I chamfered the edge and used some sealant around the seal and it went in first try.

The front sprocket nut was a little loose so I torqued that down too.

Got a new seat from Wes at counterbalance.

Bike stopped charging and found the Rick’s rotor installed became separated from the windings case and no longer has resistance between the slip rings. Looks like that fried my regulator so I ordered a new one.

Really happy with how everything is coming together. Hopefully it charges again soon.

 

[Jim]

....Bike stopped charging and found the Rick’s rotor installed became separated from the windings case and no longer has resistance between the slip rings.

You still have your original rotor?

 

[Altizzy]

You still have your original rotor?

Yes I do. I ended up putting that back on the bike. Still tested good. I’ll take a pic of the Ricks rotor, it’s kind of wild how it broke. You totally called it breaking too!

 

[Altizzy]

Garbage.

 

[Altizzy]

Fresh regulator is on and magnetism is very strong again. A bad rotor will in fact fry a regulator.

 

[Altizzy]

Whoops. I suspected that this VR115 was bad from cracked insulation. Getting some overcharging steady at 15V. I’ll pick up a replacement tomorrow. Luckily these things are lifetime warranty. Ground cable is good and I’ve even added a separate ground from the case to the chassis, although I’m not sure it even needs that.

 

[Altizzy]

Still getting 15v when running. Regulator is good. Rotor is good. I’m confused about whether my stator is “type b” charging and if the outer green wire, when connected to the brushes, should be getting ground through the rings and permanent ground cable. The green wire when isolated does not ground. Neither does the harness side when disconnected. Any help is greatly appreciated. Trying to figure out why I’m getting this overcharging condition. Thank you

 

[Jim]

The Chinese that make those aftermarket stators must just randomly grab any color wire... at any rate...
The brush I outlined in yellow is a grounded brush. Yamaha used a black wire here since it's a ground. Anyway, that tells us it should be a type B system. Just to verify, disconnect the regulator and see if that red wire ohm's to ground. If it does, means it's type B.

If the above is true, then the green wire is regulated power from the regulator to the brush.

 

[Altizzy]

The Chinese that make those aftermarket stators must just randomly grab any color wire... at any rate...
The brush I outlined in yellow is a grounded brush. Yamaha used a black wire here since it's a ground. Anyway, that tells us it should be a type B system. Just to verify, disconnect the regulator and see if that red wire ohm's to ground. If it does, means it's type B.

If the above is true, then the green wire is regulated power from the regulator to the brush.

View attachment 374334

Should the green have continuity to ground when connected to the brushes? I’m imagining it does but just want to make sure. Green has continuity to ground, but when disconnected from brushes it does not. Trying to figure out what’s causing the overcharging.

I have 0.2V drop from battery to brown wire at reg. From there, coming out of reg (green) there is another 0.2V drop. Now at the stator from the reg I’m getting an additional drop of 1.0V. So from the battery to the rotor I’m losing a total of 1.4V.

 

[Jim]

Should the green have continuity to ground when connected to the brushes?

Power goes into the brush, through the rotor windings, out the other brush which is grounded. Yes, you will read that resistance as continuity. Not a dead short mind you but the 5Ω resistance of the rotor and whatever resistance the two brushes carry.

I have 0.2V drop from battery to brown wire at reg. From there, coming out of reg (green) there is another 0.2V drop. Now at the stator from the reg I’m getting an additional drop of 1.0V. So from the battery to the rotor I’m losing a total of 1.4V.

Ya lost me.... the stator doesn't enter into it. All you're worried about as far as voltage drop is the drop from battery voltage to the brown wire at the regulator. Make sense?

 

[Altizzy]

Ya lost me.... the stator doesn't enter into it. All you're worried about as far as voltage drop is the drop from battery voltage to the brown wire at the regulator. Make sense?

That does make sense. In that case I’m only seeing a 0.2V drop. I think I got another bad regulator. The only thing I changed was the rotor because the last Chinese one broke. The rotor I put in is an OEM one that the PO gave me with the bike. It tests perfectly with no shorts to ground and resistance across the slip rings. Thank you!

 

[Jim]

I think I got another bad regulator.

If you're buying the Chinese ones... you're prolly right. You ever consider making your own reg/rec?

https://www.xs650.com/threads/55842

 

[Altizzy]

If you're buying the Chinese ones... you're prolly right. You ever consider making your own reg/rec?

https://www.xs650.com/threads/55842

I’m using the VR115 with the windy rectifier! If I can avoid Chinese crap I will absolutely.

 

[Altizzy]

Any other reasons I’m getting overcharging? A part of me wants to believe it’s the regulator but I’ve had two now that overcharge. Rectifier passes diode test. I have good ground to the regulator. Only 0.2V drop to the regulator.

 

[Jim]

Only two ways I can think of for overcharging...
1. Bad regulator.
2. Improper wiring allowing batt power to the rotor at all times.
Lemme ponder a bit more...

 

[Jim]

Wanna try this?
Take a wire and jumper it from the battery to the hot side of the regulator.
Another jumper from the regulator to the green brush on the stator
Run it and see if it still overcharges?

This will eliminate all existing wiring and test just the regulator, if it's still overcharging, the regulator's bad. If it works normally, we got a wiring problem.