Try putting a square on the outside of the tube and make sure the top lip of the tube is square to the side. Make sense?I then used a depth gauge to measure the distance from the top of the headtube to the inside lip, where the race sits up against. There is about 0.8mm of a difference from opposing sides.
Yes. The only issue is that when the race goes in, it has a tendency to “rock” back and forth with enough force to it. It’s not sitting flush. I’m hoping this lip on the inside is the culprit.Try putting a square on the outside of the tube and make sure the top lip of the tube is square to the side. Make sense?
The only way to keep it from knocking back and forth is to tighten it with too much force. It ended up making the front end feel squirrelly as it’s fighting against the tight bearings to return to center.Thinking out loud Not sure here .
Does it matter .. The load goes through the bearing balls Or ?? and some thread there to adjust play
If there is space enough
That will most likely ruin the heat treatment (hardness) of the race.It didn’t fix shit. I’m gonna tack weld the race to the head tube. I’m over this.
That will most likely ruin the heat treatment (hardness) of the race.
I didn’t think of that. Sigh. I really don’t want to strip the frame and send it off to a machine shop but I think thats what I might need to do. Unless I can figure out another option… any ideas?Yeah, let's find out if it's actually broke...any ideas?
Prussian blue ordered. I will report back with findings. Thank you Jim!
Not to mention possible distortion.That will most likely ruin the heat treatment (hardness) of the race.