If the spanner nut was put on backwards would that cause binding? 

Any ideas !? I'm about to just buy a new motor and swap it out.Ok. I fixed the leak I also found out my carb boots were very cracked. So I ordered the tour max boots and have those installed now.
The bike actually runs a little bit better now , but the main issue remains.
I still believe my issue lies within the auto advancer. So I once again removed my advance rod cleaned everything and re greased it.
I noticed that no matter which springs I use, I am unable to twist the nut to open the advancer by hand , it works easily with pliers but I've read that I should be able to twist the advancer open by hand.
I've tried different springs to see what effect it has on my advance. I've even tried different combinations of springs. With my tightest springs, I can't get the advancer to advance at all, with my loosest springs the advancer doesn't return to its closed position. When I tried the combination I managed to get it to advance however it advanced past the the mark on the rotor. Please let me know if anything seems out of place that would hinder the operation of my advancer. And if anyone here lives in the Seattle area, and you think you could solve this problem, feel free to dm me, i'd love to talk about it. (It looks like I forgot to take a photo of the advancer itself. I will report back later with a photo of that as well)
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Any ideas !? I'm about to just buy a new motor and swap it out.
Yes, could change to another nearly 50 year old motor that has bigger problems. An ignition system change is probably the best idea. Everything is then new in the ignition department.If no rattle and no smoke .. Compression OK or good
Maybe a new electronics ignition can be a way forward Boyer Bransden -- One option among other.
Lot simpler than hauling 2 motors out and in
I could swap in a 1981 43 year old engine for sale nearby for 200$ which has a pretty good electronic ignition made by Yamaha. Or get the Boyer ignition for $260.Yes, could change to another nearly 50 year old motor that has bigger problems. An ignition system change is probably the best idea. Everything is then new in the ignition department.
There's no simple answers to those points.I could swap in a 1981 43 year old engine for sale nearby for 200$ which has a pretty good electronic ignition made by Yamaha. Or get the Boyer ignition for $260.
One could argue that the task of removing the engine and swapping in a new is worth the extra money. But is the boyer ignition actually better than the TCI Yamaha ignition? If so I'd love to take that route. Are there better electronic ignitions? Or is Boyer the best ? I suppose that will my my topic of research for the the next day. And hopefully that fixes the issue.
There's no simple answers to those points.
Though if I could buy a good spare engine for $200 I would irrespective of anything else.
Is the one worth getting ? Looks like it has a new advance rod , which might be helpful in this instance.Yes $ 200 for a motor is cheap but since very few under price what is up for sale
I would assume it to be more or less shot.
No chance I would install it without having heard it run .To much work put it in
Just to listen to piston slap or worse .Having to take it out again
On the other hand if the alternator rotor checks out resistance and the ignition box seems good there are parts worth the price
No mention if carbs are there also.
I would think the Yamaha ignition is better I like stock .Having said that Boyer Bransden is a company been doing this for many years.
There are better ones but more expensive
Depends on space and future plans if possibility to move a motor truck and Muscles
and have the space.
The Boyer can land in the Mail Box within days And 3 -4 hours later it can be fixed
Let me
Is the one worth getting ? Looks like it has a new advance rod , which might be helpful in this instance.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2565617873...7mAh0lFT5a&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
That is a piece of 8mm all thread. It is fitted in place of the stock advance rod. The Boyer Bransden kit has electronic advance. The stock advance/retard is removed completely.Let me
Is the one worth getting ? Looks like it has a new advance rod , which might be helpful in this instance.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2565617873...7mAh0lFT5a&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
@Prisondawg , you fitted new throttle shaft seals when you stripped the carbs? The seals are subjected to the low pressure of the engine intake with the throttle plates closed and near closed at low throttle. Should really be replaced when the carbs are stripped. I note the pilot jet change wasn't a noticeable difference. Does adjusting the pilot mixture screw make any difference? What you describe sounds to me like partially blocked pilot mixture holes, the small ones adjacent to the throttle butterfly plate.
How does it look with the Gunson colour tune?Howdy, I've not changed the throttle shaft seals. That is the last thing on the carb list. However, there doesn't seem to be any play in the throttle shaft. I've also sprayed starter fluid all around and it doesn't effect the idle.
The fuel mix screw , I've attempted to move it all over the place. It seems very sensitive. I have a gunson color tube which I've been using to set the base line, if I hear any popping then I richen it, and then if I notice my rpms falling below 1200 after a lot of throttle, and recovering I assume that means it's too rich, so I will lean it. All my adjustments have been very small nothing more than a quarter of a turn. Which has dramatic results. For example If I turn it a quarter of a turn in, it will start popping. If I turn them a quarter of a turn out, it the idle starts to fall.
Any ideas !? I'm about to just buy a new motor and swap it out.
I had a Boyer ignition system fitted on my old Triumph twin. I remember this lost spark system needs the coils to be changed to 6V items to work best.
If it's a recent system, they come with a German PVL coil. Ignition coils don't really get better than that.The Boyer system came with its own high output coils! Hopefully they picked the right one haha
I'm going to try to really thoroughly clean the idle circuit tomorrow with the mission of blowing carb cleaner through the 3 holes in the Venturi by spraying into the pilot circuit.