..... or the threads on this lower oil pipe fitting, not to mention the top banjos that snapped off before even up to the torque spec because their cross drilled holes were off center, lol .....
Yes, I'd be very interested in what you received.Please let us know what you discover
Parts from each section are going in zip lock bags. then into a cardboard box.
If fasteners can be put back on the bike (like the ones holding the foot peg brackets) I do so. Otherwise they get re assembled onto their part and put in the bag.
Idea for me is that when I"m done putting it back together, all bags should be empty.
The bolt hole alignment on that guide looks proper to meLooks like things are unchanged.
Thread depth is about 8-10mm
Removed the top mount, coils, condenser and neutral switch
I"m cleaning all the bullet connectors as I pull them off cause I know I won't be wanting to do that as I'm putting things back together.
Tomorrow I'll be loosening the rear wheel and pull the chain off.
Unless there are interruptions, should have it pulled and onto the stand this weekend.
Primary coils were 4.3ohms
Orange wire to caps were 13.3K on both (I have NGK resistive caps installed)
Parts from each section are going in zip lock bags. then into a cardboard box.
If fasteners can be put back on the bike (like the ones holding the foot peg brackets) I do so. Otherwise they get re assembled onto their part and put in the bag.
Idea for me is that when I"m done putting it back together, all bags should be empty.
View attachment 256417View attachment 256418
Looks like they fixed the issue, they look to be in pretty good alignment compared to their old defective ones.Looks like things are unchanged.
Thread depth is about 8-10mm
Removed the top mount, coils, condenser and neutral switch
I"m cleaning all the bullet connectors as I pull them off cause I know I won't be wanting to do that as I'm putting things back together.
Tomorrow I'll be loosening the rear wheel and pull the chain off.
Unless there are interruptions, should have it pulled and onto the stand this weekend.
Primary coils were 4.3ohms
Orange wire to caps were 13.3K on both (I have NGK resistive caps installed)
Parts from each section are going in zip lock bags. then into a cardboard box.
If fasteners can be put back on the bike (like the ones holding the foot peg brackets) I do so. Otherwise they get re assembled onto their part and put in the bag.
Idea for me is that when I"m done putting it back together, all bags should be empty.
View attachment 256417View attachment 256418
I leave the starter attached and pull the motor. You sometimes find it easier to remove the cable @ the solenoid.Bike has a riveted master link on main chain.
Keep or replace with clip type?
Also, do I remove the starter before pulling the engine?
Or remove the boot (does not look easy) and disconnect the power cable to the starter?
View attachment 256468
When I pulled my starter, I found the same.... rust, and lots of it...
https://www.xs650.com/threads/jims-1980-sg-miss-september.50545/post-551327
When I took the starter apart though, everything was like new internally, including the brushes. Hopefully yours is the same. A word of caution: the end cap tie screws are no longer available, in case you have to drill the heads off like I did. I found that 10/32 screws fit just fine.
If you can't find them anywhere else, Aircraft Spruce carries the boots.
View attachment 256484
View attachment 256485
Hard to believe, but that's the original stud. Wire brush and it cleaned up like new.How do I get to change the power stud? Do I just use parts from hardware store?
I can't seem to loosen the big screws to remove the outside core so I can get to power stud or will just cutting it off do what I need to replace it?