1980 XS650 inherited project

[MC Hammered]

I'm Winston and am very new to the XS650 world, I've been reading a lot of information here to help me understand this puzzle that I inherited and finally decided it was time to create a build thread.

Background: I was at my friends garage picking up parts for my Buell and I saw this cool looking cruiser bike hiding in the corner.

Here's a picture of Maxine, my 2006 Buell Lightning XB9SX

I asked him what is was and he had little information other than he inherited it 5 years ago when his friend moved away and gave it to him. The last registration tag was from 1997 so it hasn't moved much.

I said it looked pretty cool and that I always wanted to build a bike, he replied "I have no plans to build it, so if you like it you can have it."

So I had it towed home and started my research into what it was and had a big grin on my face when the serial number came up as a 1980 XS650.

I could see this was planned to be a hard tail chopper/bobber style build as the rear shocks were missing, there is no front brake, custom wired ignition setup, no hand control switches, no signal lights, no tail light and something was planned for the rear brake as the there was a new rear rotor but the caliper was missing.

Digging around I found a set of keys hidden under the seat! The ignition keys and the original gas tank key!

I love how the bike looks with the lowered rear end and clean front wheel, but there was no way I was going to ride a rigid and I need a front brake setup.

I was fortunate to meet up with a local enthusiast who was parting out a 650 to grab some stock shocks, front forks, front brake setup (MC, rotor, caliper), chain guard and center stand so I can revert the bike back to a what it originally looked like.

Swapped out the 10" solid rear bars with stock shocks

Going to have to figure out a rear fender solution or weld this modified piece onto the frame

Swapped out the shaved forks for stock forks and bolted on the brake rotor

Then realized there is something odd about the upper shock mount, as the shock shouldn't just slide on and be left like that. Then looking at pictures I realized the previous owner cut off the threaded part of the stud as he was deleting the shocks.

So I decided to try to drill and tap a hole for a bolt.

I should have doubled checked the drill bit size I'm supposed to use to make for a M6 bolt vs. going my logic. Used a 7/32” bit (~5.5mm) and not accounting for bit wobble, the hole was too big for the M6x1 tap to cut into properly (found out it wants a 5mm hole), so I used a 1/4” bit to enlarge the hole, then used a 5/16” tap and now have nice threaded hole to secure the upper eye of the shock to.

And that is where I am at with this puzzle!

I look forward to learning a lot as I've never rebuilt carbs before, have to figure out why the shifter is stuck, hope I can rotate the engine and it's not seized up, sort out the wiring to install hand switches and indicators, get the suspension sorted out and then finally getting the bike fired up!

 

[Jim]

Well, as an 80SG restorer/owner, I'm diggin' you bringing this ol' girl back to life.

Here's my 80. What's your ultimate goal with yours?

 

[MC Hammered]

Here's my 80. What's your ultimate goal with yours?

Nice bike!

Looks wise I really loved the profile of the bike and how it sat when I first I saw it, so I plan to continue the build on that theme. Looking at getting 11" rear shocks to drop the rear end, keeping the single seat and just trying to figure out how to clean up the chopped tail and incorporate a brake light and plate mount.

Thinking of having a rear hoop welded on and find some sort of slim brake light that I could integrate into the hoop.

 

[Jim]

Forgot.... welcome to the forum!! Do some searching here. You'll find tons of build threads that'll give you some inspiration on where to go with your build. Lookin' forward to more...

 

[Downeaster]

Welcome to the addiction!

May I be the first to say Good On Ya for restoring full suspension and brakes. I shudder every time I see a hardtail with no front brake. I get that it looks sexy to some folks, but it would scare the whey out of me to actually ride something like that. Not to mention what a hard tail would do to what's left of my back...

 

[RustiePyles]

Welcome! To the forum and the 1980 club! Here's my 80

 

[Mike G]

Not as pretty as the others but the 'ol SG still puts me in the club!

Welcome to the fun! (Us SG guys have to stick together.)

 

[Jim]

Not Just as pretty as the others, but the 'ol SG still puts me in the club!

There.... fixed that for ya.

 

[Mike G]

Ever the gentlemen...thanks Jim

 

[MC Hammered]

I decided to jump down a rabbit hole while searching for a rear brake light solution.

It first started off looking at those LED strip that use 3M tape to stick onto something, but reviews of them on Amazon were pretty hit or miss. Then I came across a link for a Morimoto product that had very positive reviews and I am familiar with that brand from my car modding days.

Amazon reviews: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07176JBMV#customerReviews

The Morimoto 5Stop uses 5 huge LEDs mounted onto an aluminum frame.

Information from the Morimoto site: https://www.morimotohid.com/morimoto-5-stop-brake-light?quantity=1

I kept digging for reviews and then came across this site which has them for sale for only $40.00 SHIPPED!!! Way cheaper than anywhere else so I grabbed a set. https://sparksmith.com/products/morimoto-5stop-motorcycle-tail-brake-light

I can mount these under my seat or fab up a bracket and hide them under the rear fender which solves that problem.

So now where do I put the license plate so it doesn't block these lights?

Found out that in BC that I can legally mount the license plate vertically on the lower left front fork! So I found these clamps on eBay and plan to use a pair of them as a plate mount.

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[Jan_P]

That would be something to focus on

, have to figure out why the shifter is stuck, hope I can rotate the engine and it's not seized up,

Perhaps out with the spark plugs in with a little oil in cylinders
and try to stand on the kickstarter if it is in gear be careful not jumping forward
try to find neutral .
if something moves perhaps back with plugs the same again see if any compression
Here very few would just walk away from a bike if not something needs attention work and money.

As someone put it here even a free bike can be expensive. That depending on Interest Competence
Tools time and so.
Perhaps speak to previous owner-- s
If there is a bike parted out locally I would perhaps look into that
Say that the previous owner says a gearbox problem or engine problem
and a motor is available locally ..up for sale ..that can go in..I would at least ask the price.

 

[MC Hammered]

The bike was in neutral when we rolled it out for the tow and I had to put it in gear when it was loaded onto the flatbed, however, I couldn't get it back into neutral to roll it back off. So popped the chain off the rear sprocket to get it into the garage.

Thanks for the tips! I was told to pull out the plugs, add some oil and see if I can turn the engine with the kickstand but haven't gotten to that step yet.

Some think it might be the clutch is gummed up from sitting for the last 15 years and stuck in place. I'm told there is a clutch adjustment point but I haven't been able to locate it, and to loosen it off and see if the clutch disengages to get back into neutral.

 

[Jim]

The bike was in neutral when we rolled it out for the tow and I had to put it in gear when it was loaded onto the flatbed, however, I couldn't get it back into neutral to roll it back off. So popped the chain off the rear sprocket to get it into the garage.

Put the chain back on and try rolling (rocking) it back and forth while trying to find neutral.

 

[MC Hammered]

Put the chain back on and try rolling (rocking) it back and forth while trying to find neutral.

I tried that with the clutch pulled in, rocking the bike back and forth but the shifter doesn't move

 

[Jan_P]

I tried that with the clutch pulled in, rocking the bike back and forth but the shifter doesn't move

If I get this right you were able to put it in gear using the clutch
But you was not able to put it in neutral using the clutch
And clutch in + rocking the bike back and forth .. bike does not roll ( otherwise no need to take off the chain )
Since it does not roll the first assumption is --- clutch in is that the clutch is not disengaging.

If you look at the left side at 11 o clock from the shift axle there is a round cover about an Inch in diameter.
From under ( if i recall right ) you can pop that cover out with a flat screwdriver
In there is a locking nut and a Phillips looking screw if you hold against the screw while loosening the nut .
If you then turn the screw clockwise the clutch will operate more. Use judgement if resistance
I would have the rear wheel in the air and try to turn it.with the foot clutch in and out
But trying the shift lever can also be a way forward
If that does not help we reevaluate

 

[MC Hammered]

Thank you for pointing out where the adjustment point is.

I popped off the cover, made an adjustment and was able to use the shift lever to cycle through the gears and put it back into neutral!

Crossed that off the list and next is to try and move the engine.

 

[MC Hammered]

Pulled the spark plugs out, used a straw to put some oil into each cylinder, pushed down on the kickstarter and heard air come out!

Did this a couple of more times, reinserted the spark plugs and then pushed down on the kickstarter by hand and felt the piston stop due to the compression!

I'm quite happy now knowing that the engine isn't seized and the transmission works.

Next pieces of the puzzle are to figure out the wiring and where to splice in a kill switch and push start button, and remove the carbs to learn how to service them.

 

[Jan_P]

Yes Sir

I would consider removing the oil filter and inspect for Metal particles and other Foreign objects
Rags / Seagulls / Dollar Bills / LoL ... you name it.. and letting the oil if any in there drip out
The sump filter can be broken.

I would skip the starter engine electrical at this point in time if not absolutely needed .. and you will most likely skip it all together further on
A fuse or a couple will help.
A fire extinguisher or water hose. close by
Inspection cleaning of inside tank before connecting it.
Kill switch is a good idea .I don't recall exactly how it is connected but Something grounding ignition coil
I would make a temporary kill switch ..

Carburetors is not my Thing but I have seen recommendations here lately

If you remove the tank and the metal covers on the right and left side high up 12 o clock on the engine
As well as the black cover were the keys are sitting under the saddle and post pictures here We perhaps can give some thought on Wiring and ignition status

This is how I roll --> With no plans stop doing it.. 1980 XS 650 SE US Custom

 

[jetmechmarty]

This is how I roll --> With no plans stop doing it.. 1980 XS 650 SE US Custom

View attachment 187206

@Jan_P, It appears your front fender is off of a larger Special. It's XS750/XS850/XS1100. They all have leading axle forks. That's why you're close in the back and have space on top. Lovely bike, BTW.

 

[RustiePyles]

Not as pretty as the others

Looks every bit as nice as mine for sure. Like the front brake upgrade @Mike G!