1980 XS650 inherited project

[650trader]

Note: In Europe they have longer rear fenders and when the bike has it's annual inspection
some countries actually check that the length is correct. For some reason rear fenders do not seem
to last long there. Joe

 

[ThatXS650Guy]

Welcome. Thanks for saving that poor thing. Looks like you are well on your way

 

[Jan_P]

@Jan_P, It appears your front fender is off of a larger Special. It's XS750/XS850/XS1100. They all have leading axle forks. That's why you're close in the back and have space on top. Lovely bike, BTW.

Thank you Sir for input and Positive words. Nice to get input from a connoisseur
The first bike i Bought was crashed and had gotten its hits here and there .. Over the years I have bought parts ..mostly with dents and scratches
At one point in time it seemed as everyone was rebuilding to bobbers and cafe racers and had boxes with part in which they sold
In Those days it was cheap not so much now. I don't exactly know what parts were in those boxes or what parts are moved between bikes,
Or from what bike it came.
There were parts on eBay in Germany that was cheap : As I understand it private persons having it as Side business.
Over the years one learns what parts are common to be sold out first and difficult ,,further on.
I have 4 or 5 tanks only one without dents and it is rusty inside.

So now and then i look at what parts i have in the spring --- fex Front Fenders and put them beside at the lawn picking the one I think is the best
for the situation. Not always the overall best part. And then not always sure were it came from.
So it may well be from a larger bike ..
I have two bikes and have not entirely given up on getting both together. But it is the space and it is a good thing to have two .so I can get a quick spare part from the one not assembled.
Or having one under work and then shift ..
Season can be short so waiting for part is not a good thing.

 

[MC Hammered]

Yes Sir

I would consider removing the oil filter and inspect for Metal particles and other Foreign objects
Rags / Seagulls / Dollar Bills / LoL ... you name it.. and letting the oil if any in there drip out
The sump filter can be broken.

Thanks for this suggestions and just read up on what to do for an oil change service.

I'll remove the upper and lower filter to check their condition as well as their gaskets.
Going to pick up some kerosene to clean the filters and Home Depot lists 9.5L of kerosene for $20.00 and Canadian Tire sells 1L of it for $16.00

I would skip the starter engine electrical at this point in time if not absolutely needed .. and you will most likely skip it all together further on
A fuse or a couple will help.
A fire extinguisher or water hose. close by

Just curious what you mean by "and you will most likely skip it all together further on"?

Inspection cleaning of inside tank before connecting it.

I took a peek inside the tank it is very clean with a tiny trace of surface rust.

Kill switch is a good idea .I don't recall exactly how it is connected but Something grounding ignition coil
I would make a temporary kill switch.

If you remove the tank and the metal covers on the right and left side high up 12 o clock on the engine
As well as the black cover were the keys are sitting under the saddle and post pictures here We perhaps can give some thought on Wiring and ignition status

I am going to pick some OE switches off a 650 that is being parted out, then just need to know where it goes.

I'll scan the wiring diagram the previous owner made and from my research on this site, the color codes of the wiring he used matches electric ignition wiring PDFs I found.

He did quite a clean wiring job, which is evidence that he was quite serious about this chopper build.

I will remove the tank and take pictures for guidance from others as to what I need to do.

Thank you again for your help!

 

[Jan_P]

Just curious what you mean by "and you will most likely skip it all together further on"?

Many opt for removing the starter or disconnect it .Having it still in the engine .. Since it can be to weak . I have not used mine for many years and on the latest rebuild I went for a starter delete
Please google
https://cyclesource.com/kickstart-only-installing-an-xs650-starter-delete/

Not all like to kick start though.

 

[MC Hammered]

Thank you for this information and it makes a lot of sense to go kickstart only.

Is there an easy way for me to check to see if the bike has a stock charging system or if has been changed?

 

[Jan_P]

Thank you for this information and it makes a lot of sense to go kickstart only.

Is there an easy way for me to check to see if the bike has a stock charging system or if has been changed?

Yes Sir ..left side 9 o clock from the shift axle
there is a cover the one with Yamaha on it
2 screws 3 and 9 o clock

Stock looks like that

There are also rectifier and regulator changes possible
many different

 

[MC Hammered]

Yes Sir ..left side 9 o clock from the shift axle
there is a cover the one with Yamaha on it
2 screws 3 and 9 o clock

DAMN! Right beside the clutch adjustment point you made me aware of!

I need to go buy a service manual...

 

[MC Hammered]

Well the charging system is original and if it works for now then I'll save some $$$ and run a battery.

To remove the gas tank I had to pry off this 42 year old piece of rubber tubing from the petcock.

Poking around I see a couple of things on the carbs that are definitely not original

 

[MC Hammered]

Now with the tank removed I can take pictures of the wiring the previous owner did.

Here is the wiring diagram and the "to do" list that came with the bike

The aftermarket ignition switch is a car style "twist to the right" to start the engine and the key springs back to the left.
I have traced the wires and everything seems to match what is shown in the wiring diagram.

So my question is if I go kickstart only, do I still need the keyed ignition switch?

 

[Jan_P]

So my question is if I go kickstart only, do I still need the keyed ignition switch?

As far as I know yes ... Power must be turned off from ignition box .When not running machine
A switch can do it .But if you park it somewhere in a alley someone else can turn it on
I don't know the wiring nor the box It can have protection shutting down
But I don't know.. Cant see any reason not having it
Unless if it is a track bike

 

[MC Hammered]

Decided to remove the carbs and take it to a shop tomorrow afternoon for a service estimate.

Examined the boots and saw some cracking.

Took some WD40 and coaxing but was able to slide the assembly off.

Shiny throttle blades but they are stuck closed

What 15 year old fuel residue looks like

Took a toothbrush and some Dawn soap to the carb boots and hardware to clean them up.
Upon closer inspection there is a lot of cracking externally around the boot and some tiny cracks where the vacuum port is.
I'm hoping the shop I'm going to tomorrow has some new boots in stock.

 

[MC Hammered]

I think the gas tank is in great shape, but wanted to get a second opinion of this light surface rust that is visible.
When I touch it, it turns into a fine powder and is mainly on the hump and the side walls of the tank at very clean with some tiny speckles.

 

[jetmechmarty]

I think the gas tank is in great shape, but wanted to get a second opinion of this light surface rust that is visible.
When I touch it, it turns into a fine powder and is mainly on the hump and the side walls of the tank at very clean with some tiny speckles.

If that were my tank, I would give it a good rinse with mineral spirits and give it some more scrutiny. Use a mirror to see the top of the tank. If there is only very minor rust as seen here, I would use Metal Rescue, Evaporust, or other chelating agent to remove it. Follow up with a coat of oil until you're ready to put it to work.

 

[MC Hammered]

Purchased a 27mm socket to remove the oil drain bolts and needed to use an impact gun to break them loose!
After removing the rear drain bolt, I've never been happier to have 24 year old black oil drip all over my hand.

 

[MC Hammered]

Trying to remove the sump plate off but it is stuck on good. Used a piece of wood on the edge and hit it with a hammer to try and break it free. Nothing.

As I am considering replacing the OE sump plate with a spin on filter version, what suggestions are there to pry the plate off without damaging the engine casing?

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

Some ideas starting at post #22...

http://www.xs650.com/threads/oil-change-and-sump-filter.8176/page-2#post-427304

 

[MC Hammered]

Some ideas starting at post #22...

http://www.xs650.com/threads/oil-change-and-sump-filter.8176/page-2#post-427304

THANK YOU!

Using the drain bolt to torque the sump plate off worked great!

 

[MC Hammered]

Now here are some pics of my blown out sump filter... haven't decided to fix or just upgrade to a spin on filter.

The little round filter looks reusable though.

 

[MC Hammered]

Decided I'm going to replace the OE sump filter setup with a spin on filter setup, then clean & repair the OE one and keep it as an emergency spare for someone in the local XS community.

Was introduced to xs650direct.com and have new carb holders & parts to service the carbs arriving next week! Now I am one step closer to firing the engine up.

Thanks again to everyone for the help!