1981 XS650 Basket Case

TbirdIV

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Long time lurker here, just posting my on-and-off project, a 1981 special that I bought as a basket case a few years ago.
since owning it I've been slowly going through the mechanics, and planning a basic cafe build for it. Being pretty incomplete I figure it is a good candidate.

The Day it came home:
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That was an adventure, burned through my pickup's oil pressure line on the way down, made a nice oil slick. Luckily it was within a mile of a Menards, so I limped it there, plugged the oil pressure port and went on. Then my buddy found the sportster in the same city so we picked that up as well. At this point the bike had good compression, no spark, most of the stock trim gone, wiring is hacked, center stand is cut off, brake system packed in a box, etc. I was told it had run recently but the ignition had quit, come to find out it had an early MikesXS electronic ignition that had given up, my best guess is it was kicked over without the spark plug leads grounded.

After getting it home I went through the carbs, replaced the leaky vacuum diaphragms with pieces from JBM industries, put in a new ignition module from mikes XS, put in a threaded insert to fix a stripped spark plug hole, and managed to get it to run on the bottle for a few seconds at a time.
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I got married and moved into a new house soon after, so the bike was on hold for quite a while. Once I got back to it i found the rear swingarm bushings were shot, and the PO had broken the swingarm bolt and welded it back together - safety third? So I replaced them with some brass bushings. This piece of sandpaper on a drill bit is my answer for getting a nice tight slip fit between the bushings and my new swingarm pivot. Took a while, but I managed to dial it in pretty close. Then a flat file took care of narrowing the width for a slight protrusion of the pivot, if I remember correctly i adjusted it to ~.050".

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Got the swingarm reinstalled with new dust seals, greased it, and also took care of new rear brake shoes, going through the fuel tank cap, and a new Biltwell mid-rise tracker type bar around then.

Sitting pretty after not having a swing arm for far to long:

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After that the bike sat for a while, till recently a co-worker has been coming over to work on his '84 rebel 250 - it needed the carb gone through, front brakes, clutch, and a bunch of little odds and ends to get it running and streetable. Of course whipping around on a motorcycle lit the fires again, so I've been making good progress recently. Rebuilt the petcock, making sure everything is nice, flat, and polished (many thanks to the writup from xjbikes.com/gggary)

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and the last couple evenings have been spent going through the front brakes.

Thrashed stock master:
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This was to far gone, so I ended up ordering an 11mm master off of a ttr225 to replace it. I liked the looks of the ttr piece better, and at 11mm it should be a better feeling brake as well.
After that I started tearing in to the caliper. based on the marks, I'm sure its not the first time its been apart. looks like someone got a bit overzealous. Anyways, the piston was rusted in place. I got that removed with some channelocks, cleaned up the bore, and started a parts list. unfortunately the bleeder broke off flush during tear down but I figured I would let it soak in acetone/atf overnight and give it a go.
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after cleanup:
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I'd say it came out pretty good considering where it started, unfortunately the bleeder has refused to budge, even after heat-cool cycles, penetrant, drilling, impact, extractors, picks... and so on. So I think I will be ordering a new caliper for it shortly.

So that's where it sits currently, hoping to get it rideable yet this summer.

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Thanks guys!
I've been busy with in-laws in town this week, so slow progress. Ordered some parts for next week, particularly a new caliper, brake pads and disk hardware.
one evening I had a half hour in the shop, so I pulled the clutch cover off to start replacing the clutch cable.

Received a nice looking cable from niche industries, much shallower bend on the housing entry then the mystery cable currently on the bike.
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Inside the cover was a bit of a mess, so I will be cleaning that up and probably installing a new pushrod seal & bushing. Also looking in to the 7075Al pushrod as some on the forum have done.

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While I was looking things over I also found a break in the throttle cable sheath, so I need to get one of those on the way.

That's about all for now, hoping to get some good time on the project next week.
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Most of us use Motion Pro cables, cheap and very good. When that China cable breaks, I recommend you get one. Probably best you get it now so you have a spare, lol. And all new cables need to be oiled before using them. They don't come lubed very well, if at all.
 
I'll look into that haha, keeping my fingers crossed in the mean time. Is there a consensus on cable lube? I've had good luck with bike-aid dri-slide on sticky throttle cables in the past, not sure if it'll hold up in a more highly stressed clutch?
 
I use just motor oil. That spray cable lube is too thin and only lasts a few days, lol. Somebody on here recommended full synth 20W-50 so I'm trying it now. Before that I just used straight 30wt. The jury's still out on which is better but I'm leaning towards the straight 30wt, lol.
Anyone try/consider using summer-weight chainsaw bar oil? It is "stickier" than motor oil so will have a greater chance of remaining in the cable-housing. I use it extensively as general lube for stuff that needs to stay lubricated for a while, like the slides and bushings on my mechanical hacksaw.
 
there a consensus on cable lube?
Following the lead of @5twins, my most recent choice was 90w gear lube. Slick as butter!
I use TRI-FLOW in my cable luber. It’s good by me. Years ago, I was moonlighting at a Yamaha/Suzuki dealer. That’s what they were using. I’ve been using it since.
 
I do like the tri-flow stuff, works wonders on cable window regulators.
I suppose I'll try a few lubricants over time, I do have some 75w140 left over from a diff I serviced recently
 
Well, got my used ttr225 11mm master cylinder in, was in the process of cleaning it up and found pitting directly under the piston seal, so that will set me back a little while. We'll see if the eBay seller will work with me on a return. In the mean time I'm off to search for another OEM 11mm, 7/8 bar master cylinder for a ~flat handlebar. Any suggestions?
 
Been a busy few weeks, lots of family in town and lots of back-and-forth with ebay sellers lol
Got the inside of my alternator cover cleaned up nice, need to pick up a gasket and some replacement hardware but it is installed for now. Also removed the lip on the clutch worm boss as noted in one of the clutch threads, seemed to make a big difference as far as mounting stability for the worm. just used a sanding disk on a dremel to take care of that. Also spent some time cleaning up the clutch worm mechanism, filing off burs and removing old grease to make way for fresh stuff.

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clutch worm and cable orientation:

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picked up a used kawasaki clutch handle, cleaned it up, greased it, and installed along with the freshly lubed cable
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Waiting for that 75w-140 to drip through is like watching paint dry, ended up working the cable back and forth to speed things along:
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End wear on the O.E. pushrod:

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Re-assembled:

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Next I replaced a few bushings and some mis-matched hardware for the foot pegs, the factory bushings had certainly done their time. Plus a new shifter rubber for good measure:
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In the background of all this, there was a bit of a saga involving 3 different master cylinders from ebay, two of which arrived in un-useable condition. The first ttx master cylinder arrived with a pitted bore, and pickings seemed a little slim for finding another I decided to widen my search a bit. I wanted to find a source for an 11mm master that was produced widely within the last ~10 years, ran on bikes with a fairly flat handlebar, and used a brake light switch mounted to the master itself. After some research I found that the 2011+ Honda cbr250r master cylinder fit the bill. I found and ordered one of these, which arrived with the piston seized in the bore - lovely. Got my money back, though. Third time is a charm. I learned my lesson and messaged the seller of this last one to have him check if the piston still moved freely, and ordered it after he confirmed. This one showed up in great condition, I will give it a thorough once over and it should be the ticket.

seized Honda MC mounted to the bars for fitment:
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measuring for new brake line with some 1/4" vinyl tube - wound up ordering a 920mm line with a 90 at the handlebar and 45 at the caliper, through Spiegler:
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Also got the old brake rotor mounted, need to order the bolt retaining clips. Cleaned out a bunch of what looked like anti-sieze while I was in there, so I may just order some new wheel bearings and seals.

caliper bolted on with some fresh grease in the wheel
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Mystery goo on the axle:
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Cleaning and re-greasing the speedometer drive:

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And that's about where it sits at the moment, Getting a bunch of parts ordered this week so I can keep making headway, probably going to pick up a set of tapered steering head bearings, new wheel bearings and seals all around.

Opinions on painting/polishing/cleaning up the side cover? The inside came out well, but the outside is pretty rough. Not sure the direction I want to go here.

As far as the front wheel goes, are there any washers used between the fork and the wheel bearings? When I took mine apart this is what i found:
castle nut (missing) - washer - fork - seal - bearing - spacer - bearing - seal - speedometer drive - fork - axle head

Also, I picked up an aftermarket speedometer and tach, and I was curious how others have mounted gauges to their bikes. I have a few ideas floating around but I'm sure others have solved this before.
 

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Cool, I'll pick some of that up then. Probably need more for the lawnmower anyways lol
Any motor oil you have on hand is good. Many of us have 10W40 or 20W50 or straight 30W. Some of any is better than none at all. Then, play with your cable routing and bend radii to get the easiest pull. Welcome to the fun of XS650.
 
@Kevin Werner It wound up getting some 75w140 that was leftover from a differential service haha, it pulls pretty nice now, I have it routed in a wide arc around the outside/right of the tank, then through the air filters to the case. I might build some tabs off of the rocker covers to keep it steady there.
 
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