Tlted_Jelli

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@Jan_P I read in the haynes that big end bearing play can result in a whirring noise.
From a video I watched it seems that the guy referred to the Conrod caged roller bearing as the "big-ends" when showing vertical play in the conrods
I was going to assume before the big-ends bearings were the right side outer most large journal ball bearing and the left side roller bearing
#s 12 and 15 on figure 1.5 in the haynes
 

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Jan_P

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@Jan_P I read in the haynes that big end bearing play can result in a whirring noise.
From a video I watched it seems that the guy referred to the Conrod caged roller bearing as the "big-ends" when showing vertical play in the conrods
I was going to assume before the big-ends bearings were the right side outer most large journal ball bearing and the left side roller bearing
#s 12 and 15 on figure 1.5 in the haynes

Puhhhh ..h English is not my first language someone else can come in if wrong
Big end bearing I believe is referring to pos 7

If those are worn I would expect a clonking rough running as in any motor because of excessive play
But I suppose it can cause a whirring
The ends of the crank the same -- rough running clonking
I have had one of them go bad the one with balls in it . And it did not make a whirring sound
Sometimes the sound was not there and sometimes it was back I believe the English term is Pitting in the bearing.
When the bearing was out it could be felt sticking sometimes.
It was the shop that found it ... And it was not so easy to spot.

Here on the form I have seen the same whirring sound that seemed the more likely cause
But it can be difficult to know at this point in time
But to me that was more likely than bearings in the bottom. 7 , 12 , 15
But that is just a guess ..
 

Tlted_Jelli

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@Jan_P thank you I believe you are right about it being #7
I also found a small corner of the case/block behind the kickstart assembly that had been broken off and some metal chunks matching it. Doesn't account for all the shaving but a bit of them
To me that means my kickstart and starter assembly are a bit suspect
 

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Also spring starter gear#4 friction spring/clip is not seated correctly
 

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5twins

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I think your starter gear drag clip is correct. It's position was changed on the later models because a heavier wire clip was used. It wouldn't fit in the old position .....

Starter Clip Positions.jpg
 

Jan_P

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@Jan_P thank you I believe you are right about it being #7
I also found a small corner of the case/block behind the kickstart assembly that had been broken off and some metal chunks matching it. Doesn't account for all the shaving but a bit of them
To me that means my kickstart and starter assembly are a bit suspect

The metal shavings was magnetic # 13 and this from the aluminum ?? if not magnetic different source.
I would check the wobbly gear -- if I recall right there is a axle for the Oil Pump and Taco drive . should be a little key holding it

pos 3 , 4 , 5 , 6 and 8 so it is tightened and the rests

When taking the clutch basket out please put the parts in a plastic bag or other exactly the order they came out
There are different versions clutch and it saves time and problems not mixing them up.

The center nut of the clutch can sit hard so be careful



1646384159339.png
 

Tlted_Jelli

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So I got the clutch basket off and checked for wobble on the crank and the starter gear(#4 starter gear not moving at all)

It looks like there is some wobble on the crank but its so slight I'm not really sure. What do you guys think?

I know the HHB route is probably gonna cost somewhere between $400 - $900
I've also seen a couple 1980-81 crank assemblies on ebay for $150

What do you think? Anyone have a 83 crank assembly laying around?



 

Jim

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Most likely damaged the crankcases as well.
No, never heard tell of it hurting the cases. There's a ball bearing on that end of the crank. It does a good job of absorbing that wobble without passin' it on to the cases.
 

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Front and rear cam chain guides worn through
No locator pin on auto advance
No 6.5b single rear bolt
No fig 1.1 #7 sleeves
No fig 1.1 #5 dowel pins
 

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5twins

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I think once you clean the top cover you will find those #7 sleeves are in place. The holes they fit into have a step around them for the lip on the bottom of the sleeve to fit into. I'm not seeing that step in your pic so that's why I think the sleeves are in there. They're quite thin, just made from sheet metal really.

Your rear guide looks normal. They all get grooves in them from the chain running against them. You may not need to replace that. The front one though is toast, lol. It was mounted crooked in the cylinder so the chain wore one edge off. It's imperative that you center the guide in the tunnel when mounting it .....


GuideMount.JPG


Measure from the side of the tunnel to the guide at both the top and bottom of the cylinder to get it centered and perfectly vertical.
 

5twins

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Your valve springs, the little cups they're setting down into, and the top retaining washers don't look stock. Maybe they're some sort of heavy duty replacement springs, not a bad thing really.
 

Tlted_Jelli

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Thanks @5twins
Some progress pics
Getting ready to flip her around and split the case
I wasn't planning on lapping valves or flexhoning cylinders (never done it before)
What do you think? (Gotta get some mic's)
I don't see play on the conrods like I've seen in other vids...
 

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Jan_P

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Does not look so good in my View
Please consider what kind of rebuild you are after how much you want to spend. Doing What quality job.
Strictly speaking my guess is that " Best Before " has passed on those cylinders and pistons ..But I am not saying it is over ..

I don't think I would use them ..Depending on what is found in the bottom of the engine
I can se them being used perhaps. On a low budget rebuild ...But most people would do something I believe once in there
A rich man with a longer plan for keeping would probably go for a replacement of Piston and re bore But let us wait a while on that .
The cylinder and pistons can be measured by a shop. for wear. A service manual has the acceptable wear limits.

I would hone the cylinders and lap the valves .. Since it is simple operations and can make a difference.

But if it was me I would put these in a box to the side for a while thinking it over

And try to find the whirring sound inspecting the crank how it looks. The grand total can get big .. Depending on what is found inside
It can make ( Economic ) sense choosing other options
 
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