Edited post;
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1983 XS650 Wildly overcharging battery
- Thread starter zbillz
- Start date
I just finished installing regulator and rectifier..
I do not have the overcharging at the battery anymore but when I disconnect battery when running, the bike completely turns off.
Before replacing, the bike would run without battery once started.
The red wire that I connected to the rectifier has 12 volts when battery is plugged in. Should that be like that ?
Shouldn't that only have 12 volts when alternator is supplying power while running?
I have full continuity from + on rectifier to battery positive wire.
I have it wired just like the drawing.
I do not have the overcharging at the battery anymore but when I disconnect battery when running, the bike completely turns off.
Before replacing, the bike would run without battery once started.
The red wire that I connected to the rectifier has 12 volts when battery is plugged in. Should that be like that ?
Shouldn't that only have 12 volts when alternator is supplying power while running?
I have full continuity from + on rectifier to battery positive wire.
I have it wired just like the drawing.
I've never tried it, but I don't think any of these stock bikes will run (at idle) with the battery disconnected.
Unlike a car (which will keep running) these alternators barely put out any power at idle... and certainly not enough for the TCI and coil. The reason it did before was it was overcharging... enough that it made the ignition happy. But it would have burned up the rotor that way
Red wire from rectifier ties directly to the battery, so it'll show battery voltage. It's normal in other words.
Sound's like you got 'er beat. What's the voltage read at about 2500-3000 revs?
Unlike a car (which will keep running) these alternators barely put out any power at idle... and certainly not enough for the TCI and coil. The reason it did before was it was overcharging... enough that it made the ignition happy. But it would have burned up the rotor that way
Red wire from rectifier ties directly to the battery, so it'll show battery voltage. It's normal in other words.
Sound's like you got 'er beat. What's the voltage read at about 2500-3000 revs?
The way I remember it, (or post an answer), is, any points model is type B.
Factory Electronic ignition, (TCI), model is type A.
I don't use the pre/post 1980 model defining the A /B circuit as other countries, mainly Europe, GB, and Oceania models, post 1980 had points.
Specials, US Customs and Euro Standards
This also helps those that might buy a points model that has been converted to TCI, or vise versa.
Factory Electronic ignition, (TCI), model is type A.
I don't use the pre/post 1980 model defining the A /B circuit as other countries, mainly Europe, GB, and Oceania models, post 1980 had points.
Specials, US Customs and Euro Standards
This also helps those that might buy a points model that has been converted to TCI, or vise versa.
Last edited:
Hey Doc; my arm hurts when I twist it like this.
Doc: don't twist it like that.
Now it's 
time.
If you have a suitable voltmeter that can be installed, it's not a bad idea at all to do so until you get full confidence in the charging system.
time.If you have a suitable voltmeter that can be installed, it's not a bad idea at all to do so until you get full confidence in the charging system.
If your going off the drawing, live red wire from battery, (to the ignition key), splits off to the rectifier.
OK, thanks guys.
The bike dying upon battery disconnect really threw me since it would run without the battery prior.
Testing voltage at battery while idling yesterday showed around 13.52 VDC, that's just a tenth over the actual battery voltage reading unplugged.
Will run temporary wires for meter to watch while driving tonight, higher RPM's.
The bike dying upon battery disconnect really threw me since it would run without the battery prior.
Testing voltage at battery while idling yesterday showed around 13.52 VDC, that's just a tenth over the actual battery voltage reading unplugged.
Will run temporary wires for meter to watch while driving tonight, higher RPM's.
Took bike out for a ride this steamy evening, meter connected directly to battery.
Voltage remained the same while riding, never increasing with RPm's.
Should I test AC Voltage on each of the three white wire on rectifier?
What should the voltage be at idle to ground on each wire?
Any way to test Brown or Green wire at regulator?
Voltage remained the same while riding, never increasing with RPm's.
Should I test AC Voltage on each of the three white wire on rectifier?
What should the voltage be at idle to ground on each wire?
Any way to test Brown or Green wire at regulator?
In your A type charging system, the green wire from the regulator to the brush regulates the ground. Grounded means the rotor is energized. So take and ground the green wire and see if the voltage jumps up.
Here's how I do it. get the bike idling and use a pair of needle nose pliers to short the connector (the screw) on the green wire brush to the stator casing. That will supply a ground and you should see your voltage increase.
What this test does is bypass the regulator. If voltage jumps up, means the regulator isn't working (either bad regulator or wiring problems). If voltage doesn't jump up... we'll go from there. So let's see if the regulator is working first.
Here's how I do it. get the bike idling and use a pair of needle nose pliers to short the connector (the screw) on the green wire brush to the stator casing. That will supply a ground and you should see your voltage increase.
What this test does is bypass the regulator. If voltage jumps up, means the regulator isn't working (either bad regulator or wiring problems). If voltage doesn't jump up... we'll go from there. So let's see if the regulator is working first.
Looks like it. If in doubt, ohm it out back to the regulator.
Finally got back out to try this.
Grounding green wire had no effect on charging voltage while idling.
I metered rectifier output while idling and got the exact battery voltage at the battery terminals. Metered each white wire to ground AC voltage while idling, 0 volts.
Ohmed green brush terminal to green wire on new regultor while unplugged, 56 ohms.
Grounding green wire had no effect on charging voltage while idling.
I metered rectifier output while idling and got the exact battery voltage at the battery terminals. Metered each white wire to ground AC voltage while idling, 0 volts.
Ohmed green brush terminal to green wire on new regultor while unplugged, 56 ohms.
From the green brush terminal to the green wire pin on the regulator should be 0Ω.
You've got high resistance on that line.
High resistance on a wire such as that is normally caused by dirt or corrosion... or both at either termination end (the pin or brush connector).
What did you install? (part numbers)
Replaced the integrated rectifier/regulator with this....
https://www.amazon.com/Regulator-Ch...?ref_=ppx_hzod_title_mob_b_fed_asin_title_0_0
And this....
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JIN8736?ref_=ppx_hzod_title_mob_b_fed_asin_title_0_0
https://www.amazon.com/Regulator-Ch...?ref_=ppx_hzod_title_mob_b_fed_asin_title_0_0
And this....
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JIN8736?ref_=ppx_hzod_title_mob_b_fed_asin_title_0_0
Parts look fine to me.
Polarity Rectifier correct connected ?
Back to basics sanity check...
Turn the key on.
Does the rotor magnetize?
Turn the key on.
Does the rotor magnetize?
Having slept, I forget; have we ohmed the rotor, recently?
