1989 Toyota Supra engine swap

[Grimly]

I've had good luck with this stuff. Made to seal wood stoves, rated to 2000°f.

https://www.amazon.com/Rutland-Products-Gasket-Cement-2-3-Ounce/dp/B000FKF80M/ref=sr_1_4?crid=QMSZQD3AQ1S9&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.2u8Y_7C8nPNyIaBn4etqK_1WV-RodPvIN_7UAUN4HuIrBPSei0OUIX1pTHTyVkvaAP4OdN7mbLr_QOPdPoDcezPQeO5-ZGQh4RqrypMCtP-1-rzSKKuJDnZNOpjNufIsF6GmwyeMswqiuGVD9d1ilbuqSioYhz827uPrjE2ZYJOCdgcZh_k06ab3E1kZbVRMhaXTvPzX3C2AuCmdEu3rTIvdUKDxGGiVJRqdfCR1_ic.fTwUkvZI-fBHXkdNp5HjDSOMKR1QM3kufdaHHoeH_Ak&dib_tag=se&keywords=wood+stove+sealant&qid=1741195918&sprefix=wood+stove+sealant,aps,138&sr=8-4

View attachment 345351

Delkevic include a small tube of that with their exhausts to seal the downpipes to the collector and collector to muffler.
After using it, I discovered stovepipe high-temp silicone in the farmers' store, same stuff. I've had the muffler on and off a number of times and that stuff has lasted well. Between installs and removals it hasn't ever blown out or burned away, I'm impressed.

 

[bosco659]

Well I thought I had the engine sealed up but learned that #1 camshaft bearing caps require sealant as well. I checked and no sign of sealant so more disassembly!. Got it done but couldn’t access the bolts with a socket for my torque wrench so I just snugged them up by hand. I’m keeping my fingers crossed that the cam seals don’t start leaking. For insurance a smeared a bit of Hylomar on the caps where the seals sit. This is frustrating since I paid over $5K (not a typo) to have the engine built. Wonder what else they messed up? On the upside I’m glad I was able to address these issues before I completely assembled the motor and installed it.

 

[bosco659]

A bit more work done. Repainted the block as the builder did a really poor job. Fabricated a block off plate and gasket. Cleaned and installed the oil filter adaptor. Started marking bolts with a paint pen to indicate they had been torqued. Preparing to pressurize the oil lubrication system and check for leaks.

 

[bosco659]

Small advancements: custom block off plates at the rear of the head; thermostat housing polish and may as well shine up the sensors too.

 

[bosco659]

Final oil block off plates and hoses fabricated and installed. I plan to pressurize the lubrication system thus week to test for leaks using this…

 

[bosco659]

It took me over a week to find the correct plug to block off one the oil galleries before I could pump oil into it. I needed a 1/8” BSPT plug. Very close to a 1/8” NPT but the thread angles differ - 55 vs 60 degrees and the pitch is slightly different - 11.5 vs 11. I got it all plumbed up and pumped my tank up to 30 psi and started pushing a couple of litres of cold 10W30 into the motor. I removed the plugs and continually turned the motor over by hand. In a few minutes I had lots of oil squeezing out of the cam bearing caps and around the lifters. I couldn’t see it but trust the main and rod bearings were getting a good bath too. I did notice the motor began to become easier to turn over. I think the sticky assembly lube was being forced out by the fresh oil.

Right now I’m not able to build pressure in the system because the oil return to pan is open and I’m mist likely losing a lot of oil back through the pump to the pan. After dinner I’ll block off the oil line to the cooler and see if I can get a pressure reading.

It’s a small victory but progress. First time oil has flowed through this motor for a good 25+ years.

 

[bosco659]

New motor mounts installed. Took me two weeks to find the upper mounting nuts and ended up getting them on Amazon. Installing new mounts is no small task as they are no longer available, OEM or otherwise. I bought these 15+ years ago and the worldwide Toyota supply dried up about 4-5 years ago. Back then, just before they became unobtainable, a friend needed a pair and not knowing their upcoming obsolescence, I gave him mine, telling him to replace them. He tried to replace them but could only find one. I panicked and called a dealer in Washington State who has helped me many times. He found the last one in the world, in Japan and I snagged it. Back then my landed cost was just under $300 for one mount. I’m glad I had been collecting parts for years.

The front nose piece emblem had also gone obsolete and 15 years ago someone tried to steal mine and damaged it. I was lucky to have bought 2 back then for about $70 each. Toyota has a goofy program where they are starting to produce dome obsolete parts again. Rumour has it the hood emblem I’d once again available but for close to $1000! I’ve yet to fact check this. No need actually because I have a spare. I’ll post a picture later.

 

[bosco659]

The turbo engine in my car has a conventionally located power steering pump and reservoir. To create more space and get the reservoir away from the heat of the engine, it’s a common mod to use the reservoir from a non turbo car and mount it on the inner fender. I got this nasty looking mounting bracket from a friend yesterday. I thought I might need to sandblast and paint or powdercoat it. After close to a day dealing with it with brushes, ultrasonic cleaning and Evaporust, this is the end result. Hard to believe it’s the same part.

Clear coat it or paint? From the factory it has a cadmium plated finish.

 

[Jim]

Clear coat it or paint?

Clear.

 

[bosco659]

Clear.

Jim do I need to buy fancy clear coat or just anything from a big box store?

 

[Jim]

I've had good luck with VHT high temp clear rattle can stuff. I think it would work just fine for your bracket.

 

[bosco659]

I've had good luck with VHT high temp clear rattle can stuff. I think it would work just fine for your bracket.

Ok thanks. I’ll check it out.

For surface prep - scotchbrite and wipe down?

I remembered I bought this clear coat ages ago. I’ll try a test piece tomorrow. As I recall it was crazy expensive when I bought it decades ago. Wonder if the paint went bad in the can. It’s clear coat.

 

[bosco659]

My friend plated my bracket for me. Turned out very nice.
Before and after.

 

[bosco659]

Well I can’t leave well enough alone. I borrowed a borescope from a friend to look inside the bottom end of the motor and didn’t like what I saw. Underneath the oil pan baffle was quite a bit of rust (most likely surface rust but not sure), so I removed the pan and want to clean it off. I’m thinking most likely with Evaporust, but first I need to remove the oil film under the baffle. There’s no direct access to that area to manually scrub it. Any suggestions what I might use to degrease it so the Evaporust can work?

The rust under the baffle looked nasty but could have been exaggerated by the camera.

 

[bosco659]

Washed the pan 2X with fresh gasoline. Used my specially modded brush to clean under the baffle. Wiped it down, blew it out with compressed air. Then I gave it two good washes with hot water and Dawn soap. Freshwater rinse, then compressed air and a hair dryer to evac the moisture out asap. Now the pan is full of Evaporust for about 24 hours. Then a hot water/ soap wash, fast dry and coat with oil and I should be good to button it up again. New hardware ordered to make it look pretty. Lol.

A bit of heat to help the Evaporust.

 

[bosco659]

Clean and oiled up.

 

[Downeaster]

You'll sleep better knowing you have a Spic and Span Oil Pan...

 

[bosco659]

You'll sleep better knowing you have a Spic and Span Oil Pan...

Yes, it was probably fine with the rust but it’s peace of mind for me having it clean. I think most of the rust I saw was staining more than actual surface rust, although under the baffle didn’t look very nice. When I had the motor built at the machine shop, i specifically instructed them to not install a pan gasket. I just wanted RTV sealant . Well they ignored my request and put a gasket in. I didn’t like that because these motors have a habit of leaking from the oil pan when a gasket is used. At least now I can seal it up the way I wanted it.

 

[bosco659]

Started up the car for the first time in about 18 months. Fired right up and purred away. Makes me wonder why I’m swapping the engine. The car will make its last two runs on this engine at the end of next week. Then the motor comes out. Cruising on the highway - temp, oil pressure and AFR’s right on the money.

 

[bosco659]

Purchased an upgraded oil pump tube that didn’t fit so I had to put a couple of dents in the interfering tubes to facilitate assembly. The tube was hard to bend so I rigged up this jig to try to control the denting process. The nasty looking part is a power steering bracket. It cleaned up nicely and I’ll post pics tomorrow. This tube assembly is the oil supply and return from the turbo. It looked like a rusted mess but cleaned up nicely. The large tube is SS and the small tube appears to be carbon steel. It had rust pit marks after cleaning do I painted it with header paint and baked it in my new to me toaster oven.