2003 Royal Enfield 500 Deluxe

Been investigating the problem with the Bullet's horn, dismantled the switch unit, couldn't see anyfing wrong - holding the unit in me hand, ignition ON, press the horn button and there's a loud BEEP! All good.

Put switch unit back on the bars, ignition ON - BEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEP! Back to square one.

Conclusion, the horn button is making a connection it shouldn't with the metal switch unit? Giving the dratted little electrons a chance to make a break for it?

Sounds correct?
 
Ze mystery 'as been solved, my little grey cells reasoned zat zere must be another route to earth.

Eight wires go into the sleeve leading to the l/h switch unit, but nine come out into the switch body. One is a red/blue, held by one of the unit screws. The dip switch uses blue, blue/white, white and the red/blue sits next to those so I ignored it. But then a helpful bystander - Mrs' son - said where does that wire go?

A very good question! Push the sleeve back and take a look.

PICT1033.JPG


To use a railway analogy, it's a branch line attached to the green power feed to the horn. Doh! There's the route to earth.

Snip, tidy up, issue solved.
 
Ze mystery 'as been solved, my little grey cells reasoned zat zere must be another route to earth.

Eight wires go into the sleeve leading to the l/h switch unit, but nine come out into the switch body. One is a red/blue, held by one of the unit screws. The dip switch uses blue, blue/white, white and the red/blue sits next to those so I ignored it. But then a helpful bystander - Mrs' son - said where does that wire go?

A very good question! Push the sleeve back and take a look.

View attachment 330116


To use a railway analogy, it's a branch line attached to the green power feed to the horn. Doh! There's the route to earth.

Snip, tidy up, issue solved.
Hiding in plain sight.
 
Running-in continues. Hmmmm. Ran up to the next village, Bowden, did a U-turn, heading back there's one short rise out of Bowden and as we went up, crested the rise, thought the engine sounded a bit - mechanical? - whipped the clutch out and it stopped right away. Coasted to a halt.

Wondering if the heat level grew too high and it seized? After a couple minutes, gently tried the kick lever - engine turns. Waited about ten minutes and tried a kick-start - started first kick. Rode slowly home.

Has the poor wee Bullet experience a partial seizure?

Is there any way to know short of pulling the barrel off and having a look?

Took the plug out, it looks fine, couldn't see anything inside the engine.

Might start 'er up again tomorrow but not going to do anything much before the scheduled MOT test.
 
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Thank you gentlemen - I don't do smart phones . . .

More a 1940s-tech sort of feller.

I'm guessing, if it starts tomorrow when it's completely cooled down, and if I continue to be careful, perhaps even a bit more careful, and if there's no repeat of the incident, then I have got away with it? Or is that wishful thinking?

I won't be doing much till after taking her to see Tosh on Friday. Assuming she's up to that even.
 
Thank you gentlemen - I don't do smart phones . . .

More a 1940s-tech sort of feller.
Oh sorry Raymond, I forgot you are from an age of black & white TV’s; and telephones had a spiney dial thing on the front that clicked and which connected you to some bird in a switchboard plugging wires in holes “putting you through now sir”
🤣 just joshing mate.
 
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Wondering if the heat level grew too high and it seized? After a couple minutes, gently tried the kick lever - engine turns. Waited about ten minutes and tried a kick-start - started first kick. Rode slowly home.

Has the poor wee Bullet experience a partial seizure?
Coming from a strong 2stroke background, I've had my share of "soft" seizes. And while it is possible that's what you had Raymond, I'd hold off on pulling it apart. After your MOT, I think I'd repeat as close as possible the conditions that caused this and see if it happens again.

If you can duplicate the problem, immediately try kicking the thing over and see if it's seized. A soft seize usually takes a good 5 minutes more before loosening it's grip. Sounds to me like it took less time than that, yes?

Do you recall what your skirt clearance was when you put it back together?
 
Be optimistic, Raymond, I certainly am :thumbsup:

Adam, the camera head seems pretty big to me ... maybe there are smaller ones so you can see around corners better when you go through the plug hole, for example? I have an "old fashioned" endoscope with fiber optics and a fairly long camera head in front of the flexible part, and this device has exactly that problem...
 
Be optimistic, Raymond, I certainly am :thumbsup:

Adam, the camera head seems pretty big to me ... maybe there are smaller ones so you can see around corners better when you go through the plug hole, for example? I have an "old fashioned" endoscope with fiber optics and a fairly long camera head in front of the flexible part, and this device has exactly that problem...
Yep sure fair comment. But as the size deminishes and the function goes up so does the price…Rapidly.
 
. . . If you can duplicate the problem, immediately try kicking the thing over and see if it's seized. A soft seize usually takes a good 5 minutes more before loosening it's grip. Sounds to me like it took less time than that, yes?

Do you recall what your skirt clearance was when you put it back together?
Thank you All for your helpful remarks and suggestions. Have now had overnight to think about this, thinking not being my strong suit.

Looks like the Bullet had a partial/soft seize. When we first stopped, exploratory prod at the kick lever, it was stuck. Few minutes later, didn't time it, lever was free. Left it about another ten minutes, switched on and gave a kick - started first kick, rode gently home.

Perhaps the most relevant question was Jim's about skirt clearance. Well, stupidly didn't measure it. Measured the bore a while back to see if within wear limit or need a re-bore and decided no re-bore was needed. Bought a std piston and never occurred to me to measure it - in effect, I have assumed that a std piston will fit a loose std bore. But as a past boss used to say, assumption is the Mother of all Fuck-ups.

So, is it the rings that seized, or the piston skirt? And in either case, with continued running-in, will the thing eventually wear to a good fit?

Today, going to squirt some oil in the plug hole and turn the engine a few times. Might start it and run for a minute or two but not going out for a test ride. Tomorrow, going to ride the half-mile to see village m/c engineer for MOT.

After that, will need to decide, continue running-in or pull head & barrel off to take a look at piston, rings and bore before starting engine again.

Bikes, eh? Mind you bikes, if they could, would say Owners, eh?
 
Sorry to hear of the trouble. In your shoes I would be itching to pull the cylinder off again for a look inside. Good luck with it. Might need a light cylinder hone, piston skirt clean up and another set of rings. I have done the same myself in the past.
Tough call... but I'm in that camp also. Continuing to run it would be akin to throwing good money after bad.
One soft seize in all likelihood didn't hurt anything.... most likely. Right now it's probably fixable with just a new head gasket.... and more of the precious blood and sweat. Continuing to run it diminishes those odds though.
 
So, is it the rings that seized, or the piston skirt? And in either case, with continued running-in, will the thing eventually wear to a good fit?
You gapped the rings so I doubt they're the cause. Most likely the skirt. Yes, you could eventually wear it in to a fit... just not a "good" fit, as you'll have a fair bit of scoring.

Sorry... need to read closer the first time.
 
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