2003 Royal Enfield 500 Deluxe

Raymond

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29th December - post #152 - put up a wiring diagram and was not too sure about where the power feed from the Boyer box should go. On advice from another source, was told that the ammeter needed to be downstream of the ignition switch and the power feed needed to be downstream of the ammeter. This is all about letting the ammeter work properly. So the wiring I have implemented over the past few days has been more like this:

PICT2796.JPG


The relevant change is the feed from the Boyer box now joins the circuit after the ignition switch.

But with the engine running on after switching off, Ima thinking maybe the little electrons from the alternator aren't getting the message that the party's over so they're racing along through the kill switch, coil and points? That ignition switch is a kill-joy with no relevance to their fun.

A good test of this hypothesis would be to simply disconnect the feed wire - engine should stop as soon as Ignition is turned off.

But I think the solution is to revert to my earlier sketch and put the feed between the battery and the ignition. Anybody foresee any problems with that?

Gonna have to do a lot of tidying up anyhow.
 

Raymond

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Did the experiment. Unhooked the power feed, kick-started the engine and warmed it up. Switched the ignition Off and the engine immediately stopped as expected. First thought is to put the power feed where it was on the original sketch, between battery and ignition switch. Easiest place to splice it is at the fuse box. Which promptly fell apart - that little brass contact just fell off the wire:

PICT2797.JPG

Cheapo fuse box which I intend to replace anyway. Bugger, that means a wait for a new fuse box. Had come back to the house to start looking at fuse boxes on that internet - and warm myself up - when the thought struck me, there's a fuse box on the BatteryFighter lead!


PICT2798.JPG


Quick snip, this won't hurt, replace the ring terminal on the new bare end, and the charging lead will be the same as those on W800 and XS650 neither of which has a fuse. And of course the Enfield will benefit, major upgrade to a blade-type fuse.

Know what I'll be doing tomorrow. Playing around with old motorbikes is fun. Sometimes.
 

Jim

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29th December - post #152 - put up a wiring diagram and was not too sure about where the power feed from the Boyer box should go. On advice from another source, was told that the ammeter needed to be downstream of the ignition switch and the power feed needed to be downstream of the ammeter. This is all about letting the ammeter work properly. So the wiring I have implemented over the past few days has been more like this:

View attachment 205116


The relevant change is the feed from the Boyer box now joins the circuit after the ignition switch.

But with the engine running on after switching off, Ima thinking maybe the little electrons from the alternator aren't getting the message that the party's over so they're racing along through the kill switch, coil and points? That ignition switch is a kill-joy with no relevance to their fun.

A good test of this hypothesis would be to simply disconnect the feed wire - engine should stop as soon as Ignition is turned off.

But I think the solution is to revert to my earlier sketch and put the feed between the battery and the ignition. Anybody foresee any problems with that?

Gonna have to do a lot of tidying up anyhow.
If it were me.... and I think this is what you're planning... I'd go, in order:
Battery
Fuse
Ammeter
Boyer feed
Ignition sw.
Everything else

One key point to remember is the battery and alternator output need to be on opposite sides of the ammeter from each other. We need current to flow across it, so it can tell you if it's going into or out of the battery.
 

Raymond

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One key point to remember is the battery and alternator output need to be on opposite sides of the ammeter from each other. We need current to flow across it, so it can tell you if it's going into or out of the battery.

Thanks, Jim, that makes sense.

I couldn't understand the wiring that was in there to start with - the ignition switch had four wires, one from the battery, one to most electrical components, one to the coil (or was it to the points) and one to earth. Apparently, and this explanation is screwed because I don't understand it meself, the connection between the coil/points and earth was open when the switch was Off. Switch On and power flows from battery to wherever it's needed, switch Off and you immediately ground the ignition circuit. I don't know why it was wired thus. Have heard a suggestion that this is a safer way to wire things to avoid parasitic drain if there's an internal problem in the ammeter?? I dunno.

Hell, I might have to go down that route again if there's some problem arises and bites me but for now, just trying to keep things simple. So simple even I might understand.
 

Jim

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switch Off and you immediately ground the ignition circuit.
I suppose it could have been wired as a magneto? One coil from the PMA goes directly to the ign. coil. On a magneto engine (lawn mower, airplane... etc) that wire is grounded to kill the engine just as you describe.... dunno
As far as parasitic drain from the ammeter... that's pretty unlikely. Just about all I've ever dealt with were wired direct to the battery.

zz.png
 

Raymond

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If it were me.... and I think this is what you're planning... I'd go, in order:
Battery
Fuse
Ammeter
Boyer feed
Ignition sw.
Everything else

One key point to remember is the battery and alternator output need to be on opposite sides of the ammeter from each other. We need current to flow across it, so it can tell you if it's going into or out of the battery.
Sorry, bear of small brain, don't really understand magnetos co'z I've never had to deal with one.

But for wire #1, battery to ignition switch, I'll go with that order of components for now.
 

Raymond

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Thanks Jim, beginning to feel it's all a bit clearer. Here's the latest wiring diagram:

PICT2799.JPG

Must be at least the 4th or 5th sketch but I'm hoping that's it. Wasted some time because of misdirection about where to put the power feed, which led to running on.

Today, tank off and have started looking at wires, grunting, snipping, pairing them off ready to implement the above tomorrow.
 

Grimly

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Thanks Jim, beginning to feel it's all a bit clearer. Here's the latest wiring diagram:

View attachment 205222

Must be at least the 4th or 5th sketch but I'm hoping that's it. Wasted some time because of misdirection about where to put the power feed, which led to running on.

Today, tank off and have started looking at wires, grunting, snipping, pairing them off ready to implement the above tomorrow.
Get some more fusing in that diagram.
You don't want to be bowling down the road when a minor short in a tail light blows the only / main fuse and the engine dies, quite possibly mid-overtake.
 

Raymond

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Grimly, good idea, have invested in another little fuse box. Need to decide where to put it, probably in the line to the lights On/Off switch.

But today, put the bike back together:


PICT2801.JPG


At the moment, say it quietly, everything electrical works. New higher-rated alternator, re-wired headlamp to run D/C, new handlebar switches. The biggest job today was making a pair of brackets to hold the saddle on. PO had made little brackets from thin sheets of alloy, totally inadequate. Today, cut a tyre lever in pieces and drilled out screw holes. No big deal, but doing it with a hacksaw and a hand-held drill took longer than I would ever have believed.

Rode the bike down the back lane - need to tax it before venturing out on the roads.
 

Grimly

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Today, cut a tyre lever in pieces and drilled out screw holes. No big deal, but doing it with a hacksaw and a hand-held drill took longer than I would ever have believed.
Proper bench fitting.
Apprentices used to be well acquainted with the file.
I recall the moment of joy when I finally filed the last thou off the 1" cube and heaved it through the workshop window.
 
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