2021 and the XS650

[lukeXS]

Got some updates on the bike over the past 7-8 months. You how these things go between work and other obligations.

Carbs:
Carbs are Mikuni BS38CV. Was able to clean and rebuild the stock carbs. Used a homemade soda blaster compliments of my dad to blast the fuel grime from the carbs, and then extensively cleaned them. I used a rebuild kit and replaced the floats.

• Also, I replaced the diaphragms (big shout out to Paul @ JBM Industries. I found JBM Industries while lurking around the forum here and it was worth it. Previous diaphragms were shot. I followed their directions to measure the outer diameter of the carb diaphragm edge and placed an order using 76mm as reference diameter).
• Assembled and mounted UNI pod filters (I didn't change the jet size, although I probably should have).
• Replaced intake manifold holders. I don't have the size I ordered immediately on hand, but I can find with a bit of research. They were very tight to mount the carbs back on. Used a little heat assistance from a hair blow-dryer, a finger rub of wd-40, and some elbow grease and got it mounted. Saved a tremendous amount of back strain using a little heat.

Timing & Points:
I set the points to 14mm. I rigged a simple timing light using a 12v led light connected to some alligator clips. Grounded the negative side to the engine fins and the other side attached to the point. Worked well when turning the engine over.

After some trial and error was able to get the bike to idle appropriately without any misfires. (Once I realized I needed to adjust the cam chain tensioner prior to setting the timing most woes went away).

Was able to get the bike running and idling after 30+ years. Pretty proud of myself for getting it to even run considering I am inexperienced. Was able to put it in fear and putt around the driveway.

More posts to follow regarding brakes, and more...

(carbs disassembled)

(setting float height. Yes, floats height is set from carb surface w/out gasket).

(new diaphragm attached)

 

[lukeXS]

Image of carbs mounted with filters.

 

[lukeXS]

Just finished rebuilding the front caliper (last week). Replaced the caliper piston as previous piston was gnarly.

• The way I removed the seized caliper piston was by replacing the bleeder nipple on the caliper with a grease nipple. Then replace the banjo bolt on the caliper with another bolt of the same size to block the hole. Then, attach a high-pressure grease gun and use moly grease to pump the seized piston out. Very easy, and clean up is quick and no more stuck piston.
• Installed new piston with a bit of caliper grease and assembly is straightforward.
• Replaced pads and other replaceable O-rings on caliper.
• Original master cylinder had old brake fluid that was like cake. Made me think lines are probably no good. Saved myself the time and potential safety failure and have a new 14mm master cylinder and single stainless brake line on the way. Peace of mind.

Oil Filter & Sump Filter: Replaced the sump filter. It had the classic tear on the corner and replacement is straightforward.

• Sump gasket was a pain in the ass. Original gasket is a rubberized material. I gently scrapped and removed the previous gasket. Replaced using a paper sump gasket from mikesxs.
• Replaced Oil filter filter. Replaced gasket that goes between filter and engine. Replaced gasket that goes between oil filter cap and engine.
• Replaced oil with Mobile 1 20w-50 synthetic v-twin oil.

Handlebars: I replaced the rather awkward original bars with a more comfortable set of classic, dirt-bike/scrambler bars. I like the vintage adv bike/desert sled look and they are far more comfortable than the previous.

Grips: Grips are brown Biltwell thruster grips. Easy application using some wd-40.

Seat: I scored an xs650 seat that fit with no mods (likely from an early 80s XS). I went to Mid-Ohio Vintage bike days and it cost a whopping $50 and looked barely used. Hell ya.

Next steps will be to finish the front brakes once lines and master cylinder are received. I'm looking to replace the gauges soon, and then will head into wheel work (spokes, rear drum, tires).

Here's the bike prior to finishing oil change and reattaching the front caliper.

Here is the bike while waiting on new master cylinder and brake line.

 

[lukeXS]

Received master cylinder and brake line today. Here are the details:

• Master Cylinder from mikesxs. Went with the 7/8 inch - 14mm Bore. Came with 10mm x 1.25 banjo bolt and washers. Also built in brake light switch (I think I may replace old brake light wires as well, but to be determined. Cost of new master mc about $80.
• Brake line was from P&J Cycles. They had a wider selection of stainless lines at various sizes. Went with a Goodridge 34" stainless line, a Goodridge 10mm 35 degree banjo for down at the caliper and a Goodridge straight banjo for up at the master cylinder. I recommend P&J for their wide selection brake line fittings and fast shipping. Will order from them more often. 34" was a perfect length. May put a hose clamp where the original brake line connector was to secure it. Cost for brake line and fittings was about $50.
• I saw some posts on here about buying lines from Banggood at a fraction of the price. Probably fine products but wasn't entirely sure if the length and banjos would fit - I didn't want to deal with a potential return process etc. I believe thier lines are a fraction of the cost but I'm okay paying a premium for customer service, timely shipping, and relatively more peace of mind (even if it's a placebo).
• Banjos attached easily, screw-in AN-3 fitting.
• I did order new banjo bolts as I wasn't sure if the master cylinder came with one - but it did. Guess I have 2 new spares, along with the 2 connector fitting banjo bolts from the previous two lines (where they met in between the forks). The banjo bolt at the mc is 10mm x 1.25 while down at the caliper is 10mm x 1.00.

Also, I went ahead and replaced the throttle cable. Purchased a replacement from mikesxs.

(old master cylinder and lines)

(new master cylinder and new line)

(hooked up, although still old throttle in picture)

 

[5twins]

I run my new brake line down over the front of the lower triple tree and fab up a strap "guide" for it that bolts on where the splitter block used to be .....

I eliminate the lower guide Yamaha had mounted to the rear right fender mount. I find it's not needed anymore .....

 

[lukeXS]

I run my new brake line down over the front of the lower triple tree and fab up a strap "guide" for it that bolts on where the splitter block used to be .....


I eliminate the lower guide Yamaha had mounted to the rear right fender mount. I find it's not needed anymore .....

Thanks 5twins. I ended up threading the line over the triple tree down to the caliper - still seems tidy and fine for my line length. I will do a similar retaining clip as you have.

 

[lukeXS]

Does anyone have an idea or source for the terminal that fits onto the brake light switch? Two prongs come out of the master cylinder to adapt the brake light wires - but not sure if there is a specific female clip that attaches, or if I should heat shrink or solder the wires to it? It doesn't appear to be the same fitting from the stock brake light switch wires.

 

[5twins]

I feed my brake line down in between the headlight ears and behind the headlight bucket .....

Looks like you need a couple of small female spade crimps for that brake light switch, probably about a 3/16" size. Those male spades look smaller than the usual 1/4" or 6.3mm size.

 

[lukeXS]

I feed my brake line down in between the headlight ears and behind the headlight bucket .....
Looks like you need a couple of small female spade crimps for that brake light switch, probably about a 3/16" size. Those male spades look smaller than the usual 1/4" or 6.3mm size.

Thanks - I believe you're right - they are smaller than usual. Will measure and try some crimps. Appreciate it!

 

[sleddog83]

Impressive work. I should get you to refurbish my brakes. The only question, I have is the use of synthetic engine oil. I have always understood that we should use regular oil because of the wet clutch. Maybe I am wrong. Maybe an expert can weigh in on this.

 

[5twins]

I'm not sure if it will hurt the clutch but I just think it's kind of a waste because we change the oil so frequently.

 

[lukeXS]

Impressive work. I should get you to refurbish my brakes. The only question, I have is the use of synthetic engine oil. I have always understood that we should use regular oil because of the wet clutch. Maybe I am wrong. Maybe an expert can weigh in on this.

Fortunately wasn't much of a refurbish job - mainly plug and play. Didn't opt to rebuild original master cylinder which would have been an entirely different chain of events. Rebuilding the caliper isn't too daunting.

Regarding oil - the opinion I gather is that there are somewhat mixed views regarding the use of synthetic oil, with most erring on the side of it being OK - and with it being more readily available at my parts store at a compliant viscosity, I figured it should be OK.

 

[lukeXS]

I'm not sure if it will hurt the clutch but I just think it's kind of a waste because we change the oil so frequently.

Duly noted! Thanks 5twins.

 

[5twins]

It's true that many car oils are no good for our wet clutches. They contain energy conserving anti-friction additives that can make the clutch slip. But, it seems those additives are only put in the 30 wt. and lighter oils. Take a look at the API service rating ring on the oil container. If those anti-friction additives are in there, it will be marked "Energy Conserving" .....

I've never seen a 20W-50 like we use with them in there.

 

[jetmechmarty]

The only question, I have is the use of synthetic engine oil. I have always understood that we should use regular oil because of the wet clutch. Maybe I am wrong. Maybe an expert can weigh in on this.

JASO MA-2
Synthetic or conventional is fine. Just get what’s designated “motorcycle”. I have synthetic in mine right now.

 

[sleddog83]

All good info. I will check the api service ratings next time I go shopping for oil. I have never had any trouble finding the regular oil, Castrol. As long as Crappy Tire keeps selling it, I will likely keep using it. But good to know I have other options.

 

[fredintoon]

Impressive work. I should get you to refurbish my brakes. The only question, I have is the use of synthetic engine oil. I have always understood that we should use regular oil because of the wet clutch. Maybe I am wrong. Maybe an expert can weigh in on this.

Hi sleddog,
synthetic oil's high price is OK if it's only changed every 10,000+ miles.
The XS650's all roller and ball bottom end will wear out whatever oil is used in 2,000 miles or less.
I've always used Ukrainian Tire house brand 20W50 and changed it at ~ 1,600/2,000-KM intervals.
Others have used a 20% straight 50weight engine oil with 80% 15W40 diesel rated truck oil.

 

[sleddog83]

I think the owners manual suggests every 2000 miles or 3000 km. I tend to change mine any time after 2000 km, usually as I put the bike away before winter rainy season. I also tend to follow the KISS principle(keep it simple, stupid). No elaborate concoctions. Probably will end buying the same 20/50. Good to know there are other options though.

 

[lukeXS]

Well, ordered spokes and bearings this week. I meant to order a new set of drum brake shoes but forgot (will order when I go to get some tires). In the mean time, I began preping the wheels for a new lace job...

Removed the rear wheel fairly easily. The tire less so... It was a fairly brutal process making use of Windex, dish soap, and other lubricants, screwdrivers and tire irons, sweat and tears, and as much body weight I could leverage. But this evening I was able to relieve the wheel of the tire. The rear 16" tire was rock solid, provided little give, and was almost ready to resort to cutting it off - which in retrospect would have saved me quite a bit of time and energy.

The wheel fresh of the bike. Pretty grimey.

The wheel with the tire removed.

Fortunately, the wheel is not in too bad of shape overall. I think they will look good once the new spokes are on. I'll share more pics of both wheels once cleaned, relaced, and assembled.

I have a question - what kind of lubricant goes onto the axel? There was a dark grease residue on it, and I presume it needs cleaned and lubricated when assembling.

 

[Jim]

I have a question - what kind of lubricant goes onto the axel? There was a dark grease residue on it, and I presume it needs cleaned and lubricated when assembling.

Grease on the axle is just for corrosion prevention. About any general purpose grease would do.