Yamaha XS650 clutch disks replacement (video)

Hey Carbon, I was just watching your video and saw something about 10:00 in that looked a bit odd but I am not 100% sure if it is wrong or not. When you were putting the pressure plate on I saw where the outer basket was moving. Now like I said I don't know 100% if that is wrong or not, it has been a while since I was in my clutch, but I don't think the outer basket should be moving like that. I hate to be the bearer of bad news but it just didn't look right to me.
 
Hey ippytatoo Yes at 10.23 when I put in the first screw.
That was a good eye, Thanks for the heads up.
SadI didn't notice that.
Well I havent put in the oil so one more time in :doh:
I will see what he did in there
 
Thanks ippytatoo! Wanted You to know that the basket was indeed installed incorrect.
the washers 1 ans 2 were installed backwards. that's why the outer basket had play in it.
I have fixed that and all is well.
I also shot a video of removing clutch baskets and replacing them correctly.
full
 
also I switched around #9 and #10 on the above pic
#10 is the conical spring and it goes on before the #9 folding tab washer.
the folding tabs shouldn't go around the conical spring to lock in the nut.
 
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also I switched around 9 and 10 on the above pic
9 is the conical spring and it goes on before the folding tab washer.
the folding tabs shouldn't go around the conical spring to lock in the nut.

cough ahem... I think you mean 10 is the conical washer :wink2:

I wasn't sure which way round to put them at first I have to say so in the absence of any evidence to the contrary and after some consideration I decided to put them on in the order that I've shown in my image for two main reasons .

Firstly the locating tabs on the thin locking washer are not in my opinion deep enough to sit sufficiently into their respective slots in the centre hub when they have to reach over the thickness of the conical washer placed underneath.

Secondly I found that if the lock tab washer was placed under the lock nut, the friction when torquing up the nut, turned the thin lock tab washer round forcing the tiny tabs hard against their slots when torquing up the nut .

If the tiny tabs do not sit sufficiently deeply into their respective slots in the centre hub there could be a tendency for the lock tab washer to creep round

I'd like to hear others thoughts on this . If there is a consensus of opinion or any technical reasons I'll amend my image.:thumbsup:
 

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cough ahem... I think you mean 10 is the conical washer :wink2:

I wasn't sure which way round to put them at first I have to say so in the absence of any evidence to the contrary and after some consideration I decided to put them on in the order that I've shown in my image for two main reasons .

Firstly the locating tabs on the thin locking washer are not in my opinion deep enough to sit sufficiently into their respective slots in the centre hub when they have to reach over the thickness of the conical washer placed underneath.

Secondly I found that if the lock tab washer was placed under the lock nut, the friction when torquing up the nut, turned the thin lock tab washer round forcing the tiny tabs hard against their slots when torquing up the nut .

If the tiny tabs do not sit sufficiently deeply into their respective slots in the centre hub there could be a tendency for the lock tab washer to creep round

I'd like to hear others thoughts on this . If there is a consensus of opinion or any technical reasons I'll amend my image.:thumbsup:
Hey peanut, I will change the numbers in my earlier post.
I was goin to install mine the way you did but I had a chime in from 5twins and he explaned it to me.
My tab fit nicely into the slots on the clutch boss.
Here is what mine looks like now
full

full
 
yes that looks like a good fit . The tangs on your locktab washer are better formed and longer than the ones I had on mine .
The trouble with Far Eastern copys is that they don't understand the function of the part and therefore cannot appreciate when their tooling gets worn or out of tolerance.:mad:

I'd like to understand the engineering logic behind everything , I never accept anything without personal observation and verification but I suppose as long as the nut is secure and won't come undone I suspect that either way round will work just fine.

Nice video by the way , well timed.:D I hadn't realised that you had had any problem with your clutch ? was that since your recent build ?
 
Good morning Peanut, i think about Him every time I see your handle. RIP little buddy.
his is a rebuilt engine I bought from a member here and was (ready to go with only a few thing to button up) not a quote but close. kick was installed wrong, clutch baket was installed wrong, also had 1 extra fiber disk and 1 extra steel disk, The nut that holds the clutch wasn't torqued or locked into place. the main drive gear on crank wasn't torqued too. right side cover was on only finger tight. head was torqued incorrectly with the cancover bolts missing bolts under the spark pluge were missing too. needless to say this had been no fun. And I hope it doesn't blow up.
 
thank you buddy. Hardly a day goes by I don't shed a tear for my little buddy Peanut. He was always right in the middle of whatever I was doing.
I really miss seeing your little critter and all the food bowls in your videos :(

That engine sounds like a nightmare !. it wouldn't surprise me if that wasn't fairly typical actually. I think it just goes to prove what I always think about when folk seem to have all sorts of problems after a rebuild /restore.
They just don't seem to have either the patience or insight into the exactitude of engineering. Its amazing how many believe that 'near enough is good enough' The concept of thousanths of an inch tolerance is an alien concept:doh:

I listen to some of the engines on youtube and its amazing they run at all with the timing all over the place , air leaks and the mixture out and valves set wrongly. :shrug:
 
So is this photo edited and all corrected now ?


Thanks ippytatoo! Wanted You to know that the basket was indeed installed incorrect.
the washers 1 ans 2 were installed backwards. that's why the outer basket had play in it.
I have fixed that and all is well.
I also shot a video of removing clutch baskets and replacing them correctly.
full
 
You want the tabbed lock washer directly under the nut, thick round normal or conical washer under both of those .....

ldnrSnB.jpg


This is the normal and accepted procedure for installing a bent tab type of lock washer. Take a look at the ones on your countershaft sprocket, disc mount bolts and rear sprocket mount bolts. Do you see any plain round washers between the bolt heads or nut and the bent tab lock washers? There shouldn't be any if assembled properly.
 
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alright 5Twins wind ya neck in.:laugh:

2many had already pointed out the error back in 2013 when I first posted the image.
There is a corrected image somewhere .When I get a chance I'll replace the image ok :wink2:
 
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You also need to do it this way so the lock washer will fold up tight along the side of a flat on the nut. It won't do that with a flat washer protruding and in the way.
 
There's 2.5 quarts of oil sitting inside that cover. Go ahead and remove it without draining the oil first, and let us know what happens, lol.
 
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