$5.99/Qt. Valvoline VR1 40% off at NAPA through April

DogBunny

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EDITED TITLE. My local NAPA is selling Valvoline Conventional 20W50 for $5.99 a quart. Regular price is $9.99. They are calling it a "Monthly Special," so I assume the price is good through April. SEEMS TO BE NATION-WIDE.

ORIGINAL THREADS STARTER:
I know a lot, or at least some of the people on this Forum use Valvoline VR1 20W-50.
I know one reason people like it is that it has added zinc, or a lot of zinc, or something to do with zinc.
Here's the thing: my NAPA sells it for $5.99 a quart. A pretty darn good price. Cheaper, in fact, than Valvoline Conventional 20W-50 4-stroke motorcycle oil (or Castrol). From any seller in town, including Walmart. I always thought VR1 was supposed to be spendier, so what's up with that? I'm thinking that I'm going to buy my local NAPA's entire stock of VR1.
More importantly: I found the following on the NAPA site, regarding VR1, and I quote:

"It is not recommended for vehicles with catalytic converters or in wet clutches."

So, what's up with that??? Someone please tell me to just buy the VR1 and get on with my life. Thank you.
 
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Farm and Fleet yesterday was up to 8.29 for VR1
Maybe I can catch NAPA sleeping. Hasn't bothered any of my XS's or any other bikes pretty much what I pour in all the bikes.
There might be something better but this has been always available and til this year reasonable.
A rather methodical Norton guy Jim Comstock did some MC oil testing.
https://www.accessnorton.com/Oil-Tests/NortonOil.php
A norton's prolly a bit harder on oil than an XS though it has separate tranny (um multi gender?) oil.

PS my Walmart had conventional ES14LA2 batteries for $45.88 no core needed. But no VR1 ????
Got one charging up now.
PPS I put that Noco NLP14 Lithium in the FJ1200 and was cranking it on and off while messing with a start up after sitting for years, fuel line/ pump changes etc. It just kept cranking, starting the bike, zero issues. They're retailing about $130, much smaller lighter than the lead acid. Came with spacer blocks so it fit right where the lead acid was on the FJ. Nice terminal design, can be used in either left or right hand positive terminal bikes.
 
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Well If I get this right the manufacturer which is a well known good brand :Says it is not recommended for wet clutches
I would not use it ..Having had slipping clutches.
Of Course depending on clutch status + maintenance And driving style .Dynamic revving is different than old timer cruising

On the other hand cheap mineral oil " Red star of Ulan Bator multipurpose slop " No one knows what it is :so Everything Valvoline sells is better than that.
I like to keep it close to stock and be careful use other .Again Valvoline knows what they are doing But Seals can sometimes.
Be destroyed by chemicals.
 
Just bought two cases of 6 quarts each, and ordered another 12 quarts.
Well If I get this right the manufacturer which is a well known good brand :Says it is not recommended for wet clutches
I would not use it ..Having had slipping clutches.
Of Course depending on clutch status + maintenance And driving style .Dynamic revving is different than old timer cruising

On the other hand cheap mineral oil " Red star of Ulan Bator multipurpose slop " No one knows what it is :so Everything Valvoline sells is better than that.
I like to keep it close to stock and be careful use other .Again Valvoline knows what they are doing But Seals can sometimes.
Be destroyed by chemicals.
Jan -- VR1 is pretty well endorsed on this Forum. In addition to Gary and GLJ, it is highly recommended by TwoManyXS1Bs, who is obsessed with achieving the best possible clutch operation. It's in one of his clutch threads somewhere. I just got off the phone with him. He also reported other favorable characteristics.
 
I was at a Cycle Gear store in Memphis on Thursday. I got a case of sticker shock looking at oil. $22+ for fork oil. Engine oil $10 and up to the sky! Crazy! I have oil so left it there. I did get a “bargain” on a pair of Dunlop 404 tires installed on my wheels. They had me in and out of there in 30 minutes.
 
I use VR-1 exclusively in my 62 Chevy C-10 pickup because I installed a crate 350 with flat tappet cam (no rollers).

The reduced zinc in conventional oils will wipe these old style motors out in short order without that extra cushioning/lubricity.

Its pretty highly touted in the hot rod/classic car community.
 
Totally off topic .. Still a bit confused why you gentlemen don't believe the Manufacturers statement
" Not for wet clutches " ...My nerves would be to weak for that .. But fine.

I bought an air driven impact wrench looks like that below at a flea market $ 30
Not the same .Mine has no markings left .. And rubber protection that looks smart An no instructions of Course.
The smaller ones are useless according to what I have heard so I tried to find a large one

There is a hole on the side where says Oil .. How Often / How Much / What Oil
Is regular motor Oil OK
I cant remeber hearing of anyone oiling them before




1681647598812.png
 
Yes; oil air wrenches, usually just squirt some in the air coupling, light motor oil is fine, no wet clutch, so VR1 would work... :lmao:
I've got a Chicago Pnuematic air wrench I bought new 50 years ago but with a Milwaukee M18 battery impact now, it never gets used anymore.
 
I also bought a gallon of VR1 and read the no wet clutch warning :umm:
I now will use up the VR1 first and then go back to Valvoline Conventional 20W-50 4-stroke motorcycle oil
And use that up too
 
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